Jump to content

Best diagnostic tool - Domestic & Foreign

BlackOps

By BlackOps
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

BlackOps Enthusiast

BlackOps

Posted
Posted

I'm looking for an easy to use, code reader/delete, diagnostic tool for both domestic and foreign vehicles. I'm not looking for anything advanced or overly complicated. Just something to read codes, delete codes, and do basic diagnostics. I tried Googling diagnostic tools, but there are so many different brands and models.

z71 chevy Enthusiast

z71 chevy

Posted
Posted

I'm looking for an easy to use, code reader/delete, diagnostic tool for both domestic and foreign vehicles. I'm not looking for anything advanced or overly complicated. Just something to read codes, delete codes, and do basic diagnostics. I tried Googling diagnostic tools, but there are so many different brands and models.

Check out the torque app if you have a smart phone with the pro app and a Bluetooth elm327 adapter (check ebay) you can read and clear codes and watch many other sensors for around 25 bucks

Victor Ferreira Enthusiast

Victor Ferreira

Posted
Posted

I use one that I literally got at Sears for $15. No idea what brand it is. Reads and erases codes, nothing more. Works fine on my truck, dad's Mercedes and my former BMW. I've used it on some Japanese cars as well.

BlackOps Enthusiast

BlackOps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So is spending $100+ not necessary on what I'm looking for? I may be leaning towards logging/monitoring because I'm having an issue with another vehicle of mine, but there's no check engine light.

martha3065 Enthusiast

martha3065

Posted
Posted

I also use the Torque app for Android. I use the standard/free version and it does all you indicated you are looking for, and more. Bought a elm327 adapter on Amazon for $5.

BlackOps Enthusiast

BlackOps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

When I searched for "Torque" in the App Store, OBD Fusion comes up as the first result and it's $9.99. I don't see an app called Torque or free for that matter.

BlackOps Enthusiast

BlackOps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also, apparently there's lots of different brands of ELM327. Who makes the best one or which is the "go-to" brand?

MMC Enthusiast

MMC

Posted
Posted

I have an Innova that reads OBD-1 & 2 and came with adapters for the different OBD1 connectors. Some read different systems in the vehicle, it's up to you to decide what you ultimately want to look at.

Csjumper2003 Enthusiast

Csjumper2003

Posted
Posted

For Apple they are more expensive. Torque is only made for android. Most other Bluetooth types are android only as well. I did however I found a brand called ultra gauge that is Bluetooth and works off an app to work on iPhones.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      2015 Sierra Denali L86 cyl 5 misfire at idle

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • asilverblazer
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • parthery
      BAK MX4 EZ-Lift Install and Review

      By parthery · Posted

      I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
    • KARNUT
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Thanks not an answer 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      /facepalm

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...