Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 5/30/2018 at 4:32 PM, Jaychevy81 said:

If I had to guess it’s the V band clamp had the same issue on mine once I changed the exhaust tried 10 diff ways to position that clamp still leaked. I picked up some permatex exhaust sealer put a little around where the 2 mate up. Put the clamp on solved it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine started leaking there after only a few thousand miles and I tried to tighten the clamp but it was as tight as it would go. When I took it in for service I asked to have it checked and when I picked it up there was a hand written note on the invoice that said something like "customer stated exhaust leaking but no issue found". Strangely it was not making the noise when I left so I checked when I got home and found they had actually replaced the clamp!?! A few weeks ago (around 8,000 miles) I started hearing the noise again so I checked and sure enough it's the same issue. As before the clamp is as tight as it will go but you can see lots of movement at the joint when you jiggle the pipe so I'm gonna take it in again.

Posted
Mine started leaking there after only a few thousand miles and I tried to tighten the clamp but it was as tight as it would go. When I took it in for service I asked to have it checked and when I picked it up there was a hand written note on the invoice that said something like "customer stated exhaust leaking but no issue found". Strangely it was not making the noise when I left so I checked when I got home and found they had actually replaced the clamp!?! A few weeks ago (around 8,000 miles) I started hearing the noise again so I checked and sure enough it's the same issue. As before the clamp is as tight as it will go but you can see lots of movement at the joint when you jiggle the pipe so I'm gonna take it in again.


Which clamp are you referring to? Is this the connection point between the header and piping?

I have same noise and have for 2 years. Nobody knows what it is and at first I thought it was pinging from a Diablew tune.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Mine started leaking there after only a few thousand miles and I tried to tighten the clamp but it was as tight as it would go. When I took it in for service I asked to have it checked and when I picked it up there was a hand written note on the invoice that said something like "customer stated exhaust leaking but no issue found". Strangely it was not making the noise when I left so I checked when I got home and found they had actually replaced the clamp!?! A few weeks ago (around 8,000 miles) I started hearing the noise again so I checked and sure enough it's the same issue. As before the clamp is as tight as it will go but you can see lots of movement at the joint when you jiggle the pipe so I'm gonna take it in again.

Yes had the same issue the aftermarket exhaust is not as exact as the factory. I had to reposition the clamp a few times to get it tight. But it would leak where the clamp seam is where the bolt is. I used a small dealer of Permatex solved it if that is your issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Yes had the same issue the aftermarket exhaust is not as exact as the factory. I had to reposition the clamp a few times to get it tight. But it would leak where the clamp seam is where the bolt is. I used a small dealer of Permatex solved it if that is your issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hmm we’re talking about clamp between header and pipe?

I have custom exhaust; they cut the pipe and welded on. It wasn’t a car back so at that seam/joint it would be factory pipe for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted


Hmm we’re talking about clamp between header and pipe?

I have custom exhaust; they cut the pipe and welded on. It wasn’t a car back so at that seam/joint it would be factory pipe for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s where the Y pipe comes down and heads to the back after the cats. Under the passengers side floor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Dealership couldn't find anything as far as the noise goes so I might have figure it out myself. My noise is on the drivers side so I don't know if its the clamp you guys are referring to. 

Posted

Is it confirmed this clamp issue makes noise that sounds like marbles in can? I’m wondering if we are talking about same noise that’s been brought up numerous times.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, geswek said:

Is it confirmed this clamp issue makes noise that sounds like marbles in can? I’m wondering if we are talking about same noise that’s been brought up numerous times.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Excellent description and I have that noise as well on startup but it's different than the exhaust leak. I can't remember what it actually was but I remember reading in another post here a while back that it was nothing to be concerned with. 

Edited by Marv88
Posted
3 hours ago, geswek said:

 


Which clamp are you referring to? Is this the connection point between the header and piping?

I have same noise and have for 2 years. Nobody knows what it is and at first I thought it was pinging from a Diablew tune.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

The one behind the third cat here...

IMG_1756.thumb.JPG.d6f4924e4fdf9755a1f62c16f40f6a03.JPG

Posted
9 minutes ago, Marv88 said:

Excellent description and I have that noise as well on startup but it's different than the exhaust leak. I can't remember what it actually was but I remember reading in another post here a while back that it was nothing to be concerned with. 

I have that marbles in can around 1500-1900 rpms with load (going up hill). It's really damn annoying and I can't figure it out. I've been told it's pre-detonation knock but when I look at logs I don't see a lot of knock reduction.

 

Just annoying and considering I plan to drive truck another 100k miles I'd like to not implode the engine. I've hammer hell out of Diablew concerning if it is his tune or not.

Posted
The one behind the third cat here...
IMG_1756.thumb.JPG.d6f4924e4fdf9755a1f62c16f40f6a03.JPG

Yes that’s the one at least that I had a issue with the sound could travel and it didn’t leak all the time so it could be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
53 minutes ago, mferry22 said:

Dealership couldn't find anything as far as the noise goes so I might have figure it out myself. My noise is on the drivers side so I don't know if its the clamp you guys are referring to. 

Probably not if it is on the drivers side m

Posted (edited)

I think there is more than one noise being discussed here. I have the exhaust leak noise on the passenger side  and the "marbles in the can" on the drivers side. I just made a clip of the sound on cold start up but don't know how to post it. 

Edited by Marv88
Posted
5 hours ago, Blk17Machinep said:

Our trucks are pos. Never buying GM again, a decade behind other manufacturers. 

A decade behind who?

Posted
20 minutes ago, Marv88 said:

I think there is more than one noise being discussed here. I have the exhaust leak noise on the passenger side  and the "marbles in the can" on the drivers side. I just made a clip of the sound on cold start up but don't know how to post it. 

Can you post it to IG?

 

I'll follow you -- I want to see if that's same.

 

Mine isn't at cold startup; it's when I'm driving and I go up hill and press on gas bit to about 1700ish (just before it shifts) and it starts sounding like someone is rattling a can full of marbles until truck downshifts and it goes away.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
    • 1Based on independent testing of OE 0W-20 in the Peugeot TU3M Wear Test as required by the dexos1 Gen 2 specification.
    • oh ya that's good to know - I would rather use a gear than the brakes down a long hill.  I would not let cruise control take over on snow or towing a trailer for sure on hills anyway.     The other thing about the CO trip was that was all done above 6K feet for the most part, so that has to use more gas as the motor is down a good amount of power up there.   If I drove my 2016 Camaro with a very similar V8 to this 6.6 it would probably get about 23-24 on the fast run up to NE.  But the premium fuel premium is steep here in CO, so it would still only save about $40 in overall costs for the round-trip.  And you sure can't carry much gear in a convertible camaro!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...