Jump to content

Oil pump replacement


certified22

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone replaced their oil pump with a mellings pump and if so did you use the basic M295 model or did you go hi volume

Posted

I did a Melling in a 4.3 V6. Made a big difference in pressure on a 155k mile engine.

 

If it's stock, there's no need to go high volume. It just places additional strain on the timing chain & cam.

Posted

Thank you very much I pulled the pan and I'm no longer looking at oil pump replacement I'm think more along the lines of motor replacement any input is welcome

Posted

What year and mileage? And are you having issues or why do you prefer a full replacement? And is the Tahoe a dd?

 

You might want to just rebuild the current engine or one with fewer miles. Although we don't know what your end goal is.

Posted

High volume oil pumps will usually only increase the volume of oil being pumped if the rest of the engine oiling system can support it. There is no real advantage to pumping more oil if the oiling system cannot "bleed" or "leak" it off fast enough. In other words, you can only flow as much volume as the engine oiling system can use. If the oiling system cannot "leak" it off, it will increase the load on the drive parts as Jsdirt has stated.

Posted

Yes Tahoe is daily driver I love this truck it gets nothing but the best royal purple 5qts and 1 qt Lucas oil stabilizer with an ac delco filter ever 3000 miles premium gas it has been reliable as anyone could ask till now 150k I want to keep it I'm an out of work oilfield driller in the beginning stages of dementia so all my automotive experience from the the time I was 5 helping dad till now is spotty so I rely on these sites for help

I have rebuilt many sbc before but now I would for sure rely on a book and I don't think I can pull it off anymore I found a used crate 5.3 with a 5 year unlimited mile warranty for $1100 free shipping is that good or how much do you think it would cost to rebuild if rebuilt I would like it stronger than before dosent have to be race day ready or anything I just don't want the cheapest parts cause it is my dd and gets my kids every where the want to go and I want it strong and safe

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So I think I'm gonna replace food/ main bearings oil pump possible the crank but I doubt it cause it looks fine maybe a few other things but I plan to leave the motor in the truck I know I can't check clearance if I do this but I think it'll be fine any advice

Posted

Plastigauge for checking bearing clearances. I'd measure all of them before buying anything. If they're within spec, I'd leave it be.

 

Highly doubt you need a new crank, but you never know ...

Posted

Dirt tell me what you would do you've read all my posts your in my shoes with 1000$ to fix this what do you do cause I'm so back in forth and wispy washy about everything trying to take in the advice of everyone and I wanna know what you would do and that's what I'm gonna do

Posted

IF the truck itself (body, interior, etc.) is in decent to nice shape, I'd just run it until the engine grenades, then I'd either throw a crate engine in, or a junkyard engine, depending on funds.

Posted

You can check clearances on rod bearings with engine in chassis, and you can get a fairly accurate check of main bearings as well. They may come back a bit tight though due to crank hanging. If the bearing inserts are still one colour, not scored, burnt(don't go by smell, go by appearance) or damaged, and the cranks is also not damaged, then it is likely still good. You can measure the thickness of the main bearing inserts and compare them to each other, or if you have access to a new insert, compare it to that to see if they are worn.

 

Personally, I am with Jsdirt, clean the pickup tube, give it a new oil pump (assuming it can be done in chassis), and button it back up, I would also want to take a look at the timing chain and gears, and once at that point, replace them. I would be looking at the timing chain BEFORE buying any hard parts like oi pumps. Are those metal bits ferrous metal? Some could simply be casting flash that has been there since the first year of service.

Posted

Surely I would have seen it before at oil change maybe not it has me absolutely boggled I'm going to get a Melings M295 oil pump I found one for 58$ it's just a stock replacement but have heard nothing but good things about I will look at the timing chain and gears when pulling to replace oil pump if need be ill replace those as well might put new bearings in it depending on clearances when I gauge them probably leave her be cause they were in good shape upon inspection and I have zero bad motor noise so oil pump timimg components it is any recomendation on the time parts

Posted

And the body and interior are excellent he'll look at the beautiful piece of work for an 04 I go the extra 3 miles when it comes to this truck hell I've hit three deer in it one doing 90 mph and I barley dented the bumper I had it replaced but I was able to drive on home and the truck never missed a beat it's an awesome Chevy ain't never left me hanging no where it's the Trojan horse the it's the version of the titanic that didn't go down its a stealth bomber an f22 raptor a C130 gunship a space shuttle a cruise missle a butterfly and a bee all rolled into one badass Chevy I don't never wanna get rid of her I love this truck

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can someone tell me where the video processing module is in a 2023 Silverado? I'm getting conflicting results that it's in the front passenger area or the rear passenger area behind the seat.
    • Yes I agree, its what amounts to free advertising to let people know about his UOA testing company, and not that there is anything wrong with that but certainly that is a motivator for putting out videos about the science of oil as well as other topics such as oil and air filtration etc. The interesting part I found with his last video is not only the physics behind the reason for the varying wear due to a diesels working torque range causing more bearing load and that higher viscosity oil is of benefit, it was also that the chemistry behind the GM Dexos 0W-20 and the Mobil Dexos licensed 0W-20 are far enough apart that its showing up with a difference in wear even though the two oils are matched in viscosity and in that comparison viscosity was not having the finger pointed at it.    There are a few youtubers out there or one anyway that I have watched a bit of who has gone through the pains of accessing various countries manuals for a certain engine platform and while in the US/Canada it may say use 0W-20 or what have you for some Toyota product, in some other countries it sings a very different tune for the very same engine with the typical traditional oil viscosity/ambient temperature charts to help choose which oil viscosity is correct for the conditions the vehicle will be used in and in some cases its taken an engine in a US manual that states only use 0W-20 as per warranty coverage and yet that same engine in certain other countries may have up to a 15W-40 etc oil option that meets the spec. Another words the guy who is driving through Death Valley or Phoenix and south weather at 120f is often being fed a line of bs by the US system that has forced vehicle companies to restrict the warranty to a specific low viscosity oil for anterior reasons as well as the long drain interval suggestions.    Thankfully youtube is free ( yet anyway ) for viewers to sift through information and of course comes with the good and the bad ( truth and lies ) and we can choose to turn off/not watch what a person finds is bs or just not interested in the topic.         
    • No doubt... But, as someone who doesn't pay for his services, but who has provided a few views/clicks on his Youtube platform, the data around the Mobil oil testing I think does have some value including to "freeloaders" like me.   A lot of what he's doing is likely showing the OE's work in their oil selection, something that many of us had kind of assumed was true all along, a good balance of both excellent protection and efficiency.
    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...