Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
3 minutes ago, RDKILL said:

Sorry to inform you, but your hypothetical analysis is incorrect.

My truck is tuned to run a 50/50 mix, and if I choose to, I can run 100% 93oct and not have any problems...I just can't run 100% E85.

I run 93 only during the cold winter months without a problem, so no biggie other than loss of performance if there's no E85 available.

This is factual and true data.

Have you run 100% 93 yet?

Posted
9 hours ago, KARNUT said:


I don’t understand your response. My GMC was E-85, ran well on all gas. The best on E-85. If I was going to run an engine tune I would run a E-85 tune. Running a tune for a mix of 93 gas mixed with E -85 would be a lesser tune for lower octane versus an E-85 tune. With the sensor you would get more hp out of E-85. You still could run other grades with self adjustment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now this may be the difference between a tune and a sensor.

I think with a sensor I would be able to run 100% E85 if I wanted to...just need to confirm if I would be able to do 93 also, which I can't see why not, but better to verify first.

I could use an additional 25 ponies.

Posted
1 minute ago, Nasty said:

Have you run 100% 93 yet?

LOL!

You need to read my post a little closer...I run 93 only in the cold winter months, so yes I have with no problems.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I have a 2015 Silverado LT 4x4 Double Cab 5.3 with RPO code FH0 (Not Flex Fuel).  I have been running E85 in my truck for the last 4 tanks with absolutely ZERO problems.  No check engine light, no stuttering, no hesitations, no misfires on cold starts.  I am beginning to believe this $100 option is for a yellow gas cap?  It wouldn't surprise me a bit, and I'm going to continue to run E85 till winter hits.  I can definitely tell those extra 25 ponies are behind the wheel!!!!!!!

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, nkoenig said:

I have a 2015 Silverado LT 4x4 Double Cab 5.3 with RPO code FH0 (Not Flex Fuel).  I have been running E85 in my truck for the last 4 tanks with absolutely ZERO problems.  No check engine light, no stuttering, no hesitations, no misfires on cold starts.  I am beginning to believe this $100 option is for a yellow gas cap?  It wouldn't surprise me a bit, and I'm going to continue to run E85 till winter hits.  I can definitely tell those extra 25 ponies are behind the wheel!!!!!!!

The only problem you might run into is a lean code if you run 100% all the time and really get on the throttle.  The ECU does not accommodate for the ethanol in the system since it can't detect it and so will not change you fuel map to do so.  The kit is well worth it  and the tune will really wake up the truck. To me it is well worth the cost and I'm going to convert our 16 Suburban over to E85. 

 

Not to mention E85 here is $2.16 a gallon and premium is $3.26.  So even with the lower mpg I get I'm still ahead on miles per gallon cost.

Posted

So far so good. My mpg has minimally suffered, but in return I have lots more power.  All I’m saying is, the now $300 conversion (instead of the $100 option) might not be necessary. I will return to running 87 during the cold months. 

Posted
3 hours ago, nkoenig said:

So far so good. My mpg has minimally suffered, but in return I have lots more power.  All I’m saying is, the now $300 conversion (instead of the $100 option) might not be necessary. I will return to running 87 during the cold months. 

What did you do?

Did you get an E85 tune and/or a sensor, or just a tune?

On another note:

I did the CRC GDI intake valve cleaner and boy what a difference it made!

  • Like 1
Posted
11 minutes ago, RDKILL said:

What did you do?

Did you get an E85 tune and/or a sensor, or just a tune?

On another note:

I did the CRC GDI intake valve cleaner and boy what a difference it made!

You have to have a sensor to get the full benefits of running E85.  Otherwise the ECU has no way of knowing what fuel you are running to make changes to the fuel map.

  • Like 1
Posted
16 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said:

You have to have a sensor to get the full benefits of running E85.  Otherwise the ECU has no way of knowing what fuel you are running to make changes to the fuel map.

Thank you, I realize that is the case, but was just wondering what nkoenig did being that he mentioned the kit may not be needed.

I have seen performance increase with just a tune, but I am thinking of getting in touch with CJ to explore the kit.

BBP has told me that would be the best way to take full advantage of the fuel...just like if I added headers, cam, supercharger etc.

Posted
27 minutes ago, RDKILL said:

Thank you, I realize that is the case, but was just wondering what nkoenig did being that he mentioned the kit may not be needed.

I have seen performance increase with just a tune, but I am thinking of getting in touch with CJ to explore the kit.

BBP has told me that would be the best way to take full advantage of the fuel...just like if I added headers, cam, supercharger etc.

He didnt do anything but put e85 fuel in his tank

Posted
On 4/12/2016 at 9:07 AM, bobbobtar said:

Seat of the pants, I could tell it was different, felt like it had better acceleration.

Better acceleration, better tranny shifting, no black soot on or in tailpipe.

And a moonshine smell whipe running all make up for the mpg loss! :thumbs:

  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, RDKILL said:

What did you do?

Did you get an E85 tune and/or a sensor, or just a tune?

On another note:

I did the CRC GDI intake valve cleaner and boy what a difference it made!

I didn’t get an e85 tune. Everything is still the way it came from the factory. 

Posted

Looking under my truck just forward of the fuel tank, I see two metal fuel tubes coming/going to the fuel tank.

I'm not sure which tube is going in and which is going out.

 

Does anyone know for sure which tube the sensor would be grafted/installed to?

I see the wire harness is tied up near the tubing, so I'm assuming this is the area the sensor would be installed, just not sure which tube...hate to cut the wrong one!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I see in the pcm that mine auto detects for the sensor. I can change the tune in there. It is sad that the fuel line to the engine is so much work to replace. A splice in sensor is easier but cost much more and not for the average Joe as a DIY. 

I will look into the software but so far I don't see or believe the MPG changes based on alcohol sensor. Meaning it takes much more E85 to run then gasoline. So how is it calculating this?   

Screen Shot 2018-10-05 at 3.29.11 PM.png

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
    • I bought a used 2022 2500hd with 6.6L in February. In March took a 2200 mile trip towing our 6500 lb trailer. Changed the oil day before leaving and when we were arriving at our 1st destination, low oil light came on (roughly 1000 miles) it was 2 qts low. Now it towed like a dream, no issue there, and we did go through the mountains of TN, but still, 2 qts! Luckily I did purchase an extended warranty. Brought it to the dealership in April, oil change and consumption test. Brought it back last week, 1300 miles, no towing, and no oil showing on the dipstick. GM is reccomending a new engine (cheaper than them rebuilding), we'll see if the warranty company comes through. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...