Jump to content

Tpms not working with aftermarket rims and tires


Recommended Posts

Posted

I bought 20x9 fuel mavericks with 295/55 cooper stt pros and had my tire guy install factory gm tpms. The relearn tools at gm wont pick up the sensors on any wheel. Its driving me nuts cause $250 are just sitting inside my wheels doing nothing. Is there a solution to this problem?

Posted

Sounds to me like you didn't get sensors.. I change my factory wheels and put after market rims and tires on mine. And drove it less than a block from the tire place and I had all 4 corners showing in my dash

Posted

I'm having the same issue. I also have the 20x9 mavericks with 295 60 20 toyo at2. And I bought factory gmc sensors and the best they could do was get two of them programmed which didn't last long. I'm hoping someone has the answer cause it's annoying clearing that msg off the dash all the time.

Posted

There are a number of different tpms sensors. Not all are compatible. Verify that you have the correct sensors.

 

I have Fuel Anza 18x9 wheels without tpms problems.

Posted

The dealer used my vin number to buy my sensors. I am baffled about this

Posted

Why didn't you guys have them install the tpms from the factory tires that came with the truck into the new wheels and tires. I have 24s and that what I did.

Posted

I also used my original sensors.

 

I don't think this is a wheel/tire issue, but rather a sensor issue.

Posted

The sensor dosent know if its in a factory or aftermarket wheel and dosent care , definitely a sensor problem

Posted

Didn't switch the factory sensors to aftermarket rims because I have winter tires on factory rims. And also bought factory sensors that are mentioned for the denali like they told me from the gmc dealership parts department. Oh well just another first world problem I guess.

Posted

I didnt take my factory ones out cause i plan to use them for the winter. The dealer is being admit about it they are saying its the right sensors for my truck.

 

What i dont get is how come the relearn tool isnt picking up the sensors on any tire.

Posted

I had the same issue/same rims, have them reach in with their finger and lean the valve stem towards the outside of the rim. Worked for me....

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Try not using the Relearn tool by the valve stem. Put the probe on the tire above the valve stem and see if it gets a signal there.

 

The only issues it the TPMS system may still have issues getting reading.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...