Towing Question? I think I'm putting too much stress on my truck.

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 · May 10, 2016

Your truck would be fine if you didn't tow the tractor 1-2 times a week. If you only towed it maybe once a month then your truck would be fine even though it's barely over the max tow weight. I think that a 1500 6.2 would also be just fine. A 2500 is just made to tow heavier weight more often so it can put up with the weight a lot better. I don't think you need a diesel, but I think a 2500 gasser is your best bet if you feel more comfortable with a 2500.

LeeDowney · May 10, 2016

Thanks guys for the input. As for the tongue weight, honestly, the way my tilt trailer is built, the majority of the tractor weight is on the trailer axles. I actually have to pull the tractor that far forward to put a little tongue weight on the truck so the rear end of the trailers doesn't sway. This trailer tows great. As for trailer sway, my 2016 Sierra has a built in trailer sway control with it's towing package. Trust me, it works very well. The first time I loaded my tractor, I didn't put hardly any tongue weight on it at all. When I reach 55 mph, the trailer started to sway. I felt the sway controller kick in which stopped the swaying. I pulled over and moved the tractor forward about 2 feet. No more swaying.

Checked with my local dealership yesterday. I guess I'll be keeping this 1500 for at least a little while. The current offers on the 2500 are nearly nothing and what they offered me for my 2 month old current truck was almost insulting. I don't understand why the local Ford dealerships knock $10-$12k off their 2500 diesel trucks before you step on the lot while the GMC/Chevy guys act like your stealing from their grandmothers if they knock more than $3k off a $68,000 truck. Freaking nuts.

Thanks again for the advice.

Stephen Della Monica · May 10, 2016

You should think about the 2500. While the 1500 may have a 9100 lb trailering limit, that's also with a 10% tongue load. It will go down as you increase tongue weight %. Especially as you are already knowingly overloading your truck with the tractor.

SMiller · May 10, 2016

Transmission temps, braking distance, and trailer sway tell the story of if you have enough truck.

dmax_highcountry · May 10, 2016

I made the switch from a 2014 CC Z71 1500 to a 2500 Duramax. Pull 7,500 lbs regularly and its night and day. The 1500 pulled and stopped well (also used an E2 sway bar) but the 2500 is much more stable.

kp52 · May 10, 2016

You are going to get beat up bad with a 2 month old truck. Some dealers discount 2500s pretty decent, laura GMC is 10-12K off 2500 duramax trucks but you are going to take a bath on your 1500 unless you bought it super cheap. You can get into a 2500 gasser less the 10K dmax premium as well, nothing wrong with the gas engine unless gas goes up to 4-5.00 a gallon again.

Thanks guys for the input. As for the tongue weight, honestly, the way my tilt trailer is built, the majority of the tractor weight is on the trailer axles. I actually have to pull the tractor that far forward to put a little tongue weight on the truck so the rear end of the trailers doesn't sway. This trailer tows great. As for trailer sway, my 2016 Sierra has a built in trailer sway control with it's towing package. Trust me, it works very well. The first time I loaded my tractor, I didn't put hardly any tongue weight on it at all. When I reach 55 mph, the trailer started to sway. I felt the sway controller kick in which stopped the swaying. I pulled over and moved the tractor forward about 2 feet. No more swaying.

Checked with my local dealership yesterday. I guess I'll be keeping this 1500 for at least a little while. The current offers on the 2500 are nearly nothing and what they offered me for my 2 month old current truck was almost insulting. I don't understand why the local Ford dealerships knock $10-$12k off their 2500 diesel trucks before you step on the lot while the GMC/Chevy guys act like your stealing from their grandmothers if they knock more than $3k off a $68,000 truck. Freaking nuts.

Thanks again for the advice.

Badass69 · May 10, 2016

LeeDowney, on 10 May 2016 - 08:31 AM, said:LeeDowney, on 10 May 2016 - 08:31 AM, said:

Thanks guys for the input. As for the tongue weight, honestly, the way my tilt trailer is built, the majority of the tractor weight is on the trailer axles. I actually have to pull the tractor that far forward to put a little tongue weight on the truck so the rear end of the trailers doesn't sway. This trailer tows great. As for trailer sway, my 2016 Sierra has a built in trailer sway control with it's towing package. Trust me, it works very well. The first time I loaded my tractor, I didn't put hardly any tongue weight on it at all. When I reach 55 mph, the trailer started to sway. I felt the sway controller kick in which stopped the swaying. I pulled over and moved the tractor forward about 2 feet. No more swaying.

Checked with my local dealership yesterday. I guess I'll be keeping this 1500 for at least a little while. The current offers on the 2500 are nearly nothing and what they offered me for my 2 month old current truck was almost insulting. I don't understand why the local Ford dealerships knock $10-$12k off their 2500 diesel trucks before you step on the lot while the GMC/Chevy guys act like your stealing from their grandmothers if they knock more than $3k off a $68,000 truck. Freaking nuts.

Thanks again for the advice.

My advice....... honestly..... ignore all this BS on here and look at it yourself. Are you actually uncomfortable pulling that trailer with your current truck? Yes or no? I am not asking you if you think it's overtaxing it.... but rather how you feel driving. What no one here understands is the NHT 1/2 tons really have no better advantage than you other than higher trailer rating and magical 400 lb GVWR increase. Your rear end won't fail..... you have basically the same rear diff as what a lot of "3/4" tons had even 10 years ago.... and not one guy here would bat an eye about it. The NHT gets a 9.76" ring gear but honestly at 9.5" you won't break anything in it including axles or bearings. Your brakes are no different than an NHT truck and are larger than the 2010 and older 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks had. You have the same engine and transmission as an NHT truck will... just 3.42 gears which aren't going to fail lol. Other than 6 lug wheels your truck is basically a 2500 from 2005...... so it will be okay lol.

A lot of guys on here would convince you that you need a 2500HD to tow a 3000 lb trailer..... and it gets old.

If you don't feel unsafe, the truck isn't running hot, tranny isn't getting really hot, you can stop reasonably..... etc. Just drive the damn thing.

Silverado Steve · May 10, 2016

Interesting, why didn't the OP look at a 2500 two months ago knowing he needed more oomph to tow the tracto trailer? Hindsight being 20/20, there will be a bigger discount on the Ford since a redesign is coming next year, so dealers are trying to clear inventory of the outgoing model.

Agree that you are pushing the boundaries of the 1500, seeing how you tow your tractor often it makes sense to move up a class of truck, but also there are many here who will say you need a 2500-up to tow a lawnmower.

Nathan79 · May 10, 2016

My advice....... honestly..... ignore all this BS on here and look at it yourself. Are you actually uncomfortable pulling that trailer with your current truck? Yes or no? I am not asking you if you think it's overtaxing it.... but rather how you feel driving. What no one here understands is the NHT 1/2 tons really have no better advantage than you other than higher trailer rating and magical 400 lb GVWR increase. Your rear end won't fail..... you have basically the same rear diff as what a lot of "3/4" tons had even 10 years ago.... and not one guy here would bat an eye about it. The NHT gets a 9.76" ring gear but honestly at 9.5" you won't break anything in it including axles or bearings. Your brakes are no different than an NHT truck and are larger than the 2010 and older 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks had. You have the same engine and transmission as an NHT truck will... just 3.42 gears which aren't going to fail lol. Other than 6 lug wheels your truck is basically a 2500 from 2005...... so it will be okay lol.

A lot of guys on here would convince you that you need a 2500HD to tow a 3000 lb trailer..... and it gets old.

If you don't feel unsafe, the truck isn't running hot, tranny isn't getting really hot, you can stop reasonably..... etc. Just drive the damn thing.

Really? That's real strange because I thought the HD 3/4 tons as far back as I know used the 10.5" full floating rear end, not the light duty 9.5/9.76" semi-floating rear ends??? I guess there was a light duty 2500 and 1500HD that used the light duty 9.5" semi floating rear end.

LeeDowney · May 11, 2016

My advice....... honestly..... ignore all this BS on here and look at it yourself. Are you actually uncomfortable pulling that trailer with your current truck? Yes or no? I am not asking you if you think it's overtaxing it.... but rather how you feel driving. What no one here understands is the NHT 1/2 tons really have no better advantage than you other than higher trailer rating and magical 400 lb GVWR increase. Your rear end won't fail..... you have basically the same rear diff as what a lot of "3/4" tons had even 10 years ago.... and not one guy here would bat an eye about it. The NHT gets a 9.76" ring gear but honestly at 9.5" you won't break anything in it including axles or bearings. Your brakes are no different than an NHT truck and are larger than the 2010 and older 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks had. You have the same engine and transmission as an NHT truck will... just 3.42 gears which aren't going to fail lol. Other than 6 lug wheels your truck is basically a 2500 from 2005...... so it will be okay lol.

A lot of guys on here would convince you that you need a 2500HD to tow a 3000 lb trailer..... and it gets old.

If you don't feel unsafe, the truck isn't running hot, tranny isn't getting really hot, you can stop reasonably..... etc. Just drive the damn thing.

Honestly, this is the type of reply I had hope to see. Truthfully, the truck tows the tractor great. I feel safe in towing. I think the type of trailer I bought for the tractor has a lot to do with that. As you can see from the photos, the axles are in the middle of the trailer supporting most of the weight. If I owned a typical trailer with the axles towards the rear, I agree with others, I would have a tongue weight issue.

The brakes on the trailer work great. They do an excellent job at stopping the trailer. My only issue and the reason for this post is the concern I am aging my truck faster than if I were towing 5k.

Thanks again for your reply. I am leaning toward just keeping my truck. I really love it. There are several things that it has that the 2500 doesn't.

LeeDowney · May 11, 2016

Interesting, why didn't the OP look at a 2500 two months ago knowing he needed more oomph to tow the tracto trailer? Hindsight being 20/20, there will be a bigger discount on the Ford since a redesign is coming next year, so dealers are trying to clear inventory of the outgoing model.

Agree that you are pushing the boundaries of the 1500, seeing how you tow your tractor often it makes sense to move up a class of truck, but also there are many here who will say you need a 2500-up to tow a lawnmower.

To answer your question, I previously owned the Kubota L3200. Which with bucket and bush hog, only weights about 5k. After buying the new truck, they had a hell of a cash deal on new Kubota cab tractors. I just couldn't pass up. I knew I would be at my limits in towing but went ahead and pulled the trigger.

xelli · May 11, 2016

Really? That's real strange because I thought the HD 3/4 tons as far back as I know used the 10.5" full floating rear end, not the light duty 9.5/9.76" semi-floating rear ends??? I guess there was a light duty 2500 and 1500HD that used the light duty 9.5" semi floating rear end.

Learn something new every day. I didn't know the difference.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/0112or-semi-floating-and-full-floating-axles/

Badass69 · May 11, 2016

Nathan79, on 10 May 2016 - 5:37 PM, said:Nathan79, on 10 May 2016 - 5:37 PM, said:Nathan79, on 10 May 2016 - 5:37 PM, said:Nathan79, on 10 May 2016 - 5:37 PM, said:Nathan79, on 10 May 2016 - 5:37 PM, said:

Really? That's real strange because I thought the HD 3/4 tons as far back as I know used the 10.5" full floating rear end, not the light duty 9.5/9.76" semi-floating rear ends??? I guess there was a light duty 2500 and 1500HD that used the light duty 9.5" semi floating rear end.

Yup..... sure was. And they had almost the same payload numbers and year for year the same tow ratings as a 2500HD..... rear diff didn't account for a whole lot on the legal side of things to GM. Take my 05 1500HD..... over 2700 lbs in payload capacity and legally able to pull 9900 lbs. An equal year 2500HD has a tow rating within about 100 lbs of that and near identical payload. This is why I laugh at all these freakouts over nothing.....

I only worked mine hard for over 160000 miles and never had to do anything to it... the whole time with it running at near its GVWR ( so 8600 lbs) and me hooking it to my 20 foot carhauler and towing whatever I wanted over and above that. Like I said... some people think you need a 1 ton for 5000 lbs and a Semi for 10000 lbs lol.

Badass69 · May 11, 2016

Honestly, this is the type of reply I had hope to see. Truthfully, the truck tows the tractor great. I feel safe in towing. I think the type of trailer I bought for the tractor has a lot to do with that. As you can see from the photos, the axles are in the middle of the trailer supporting most of the weight. If I owned a typical trailer with the axles towards the rear, I agree with others, I would have a tongue weight issue.

The brakes on the trailer work great. They do an excellent job at stopping the trailer. My only issue and the reason for this post is the concern I am aging my truck faster than if I were towing 5k.

Thanks again for your reply. I am leaning toward just keeping my truck. I really love it. There are several things that it has that the 2500 doesn't.

You won't age the truck in a way anyone will ever know about nor cause any grief to yourself. Keep your fluids in check and watch your temps when you tow and it will live a long happy life like any other pickup truck. The internet police always have some of the most ridiculous replies on these websites and you just have to sit down and look at things logically. If it makes you uncomfortable or the truck shows inability for the task then by all means get the 2500HD. But if not.... just enjoy your truck!

Nathan79 · May 11, 2016

Yup..... sure was. And they had almost the same payload numbers and year for year the same tow ratings as a 2500HD..... rear diff didn't account for a whole lot on the legal side of things to GM. Take my 05 1500HD..... over 2700 lbs in payload capacity and legally able to pull 9900 lbs. An equal year 2500HD has a tow rating within about 100 lbs of that and near identical payload. This is why I laugh at all these freakouts over nothing.....

I only worked mine hard for over 160000 miles and never had to do anything to it... the whole time with it running at near its GVWR ( so 8600 lbs) and me hooking it to my 20 foot carhauler and towing whatever I wanted over and above that. Like I said... some people think you need a 1 ton for 5000 lbs and a Semi for 10000 lbs lol.

Huh, that is weird. I guess GM got their act together in the last 10 years, they got rid of the light duty "3/4" tons, because the HD full floating rear ends are rated much higher (still much less than the manufacturer rates them) compared to the light duty SF rear ends today.