valleyfreak45 Posted May 26, 2016 Posted May 26, 2016 Hoping to help some people out that may have similar questions to what I did. My front 5100s are currently on the way and scheduled for delivery today. The rear 5100s are on back order from Summit so I decided to wait. MRT Motorsports if you're on here, feel free to quote me a set of rear 5100s to 77840. Now I took pre-install measurements this morning. Driver Pass Front 35.69" 35.88" Rear 39.44" 39.75" As you can see, I'm looking at just shy of 4" of rake. Options I'm thinking are: 1. Max 5100 setting and remove rear block (~1.5") 2. 2nd setting with 1.5" spacer 3. 3rd setting with 1" spacer Things to note: I have a full tank of gas and a grille guard on the front, which I believe is about 500 lbs. Someone feel free to chime in if that weight is off. I attached a few pictures of the measurements. I measured from ground to the top center-ish of each wheel well. If anyone would like any other pre-install measurements or pictures please let me know. Also suggestions on other options or which option to do are welcome.
valleyfreak45 Posted May 26, 2016 Author Posted May 26, 2016 measure from the wheel center line If you would like me to I can, but the only that would differ from the way I measured would be if I changed tire pressure seeing as I'll be keeping same tires and wheels.
Donstar Posted May 26, 2016 Posted May 26, 2016 I would install the Bilsteins at (or next to) their maximum setting and leave everything else. A little rake looks good (IMO) and will prevent you from driving nose high with a light load in the back. At least try it this way for awhile . If you don't like the look, you can then add/remove spacers and/or blocks!
Jdkno Posted May 26, 2016 Posted May 26, 2016 Can you measure to the top of the bedrail above rear tire and top of hood above the front tires. If you look around a lot of the trucks that put the 2.5" up front and nothing in the rear look either perfectly level or a little nose high. If you max out the 5100's up front and pull the block out the rear you will probably look nose high no matter what the fender measurements say.
valleyfreak45 Posted May 26, 2016 Author Posted May 26, 2016 Here ya go. I tried to be as consistent as possible. I know what you're saying about the 2.5" but I have also noticed they start with their fronts around 36.5" while I'm in the 35" range
valleyfreak45 Posted May 27, 2016 Author Posted May 27, 2016 Billys are in! Will start install tomorrow morning. Hoping to do at least a half a** write up
valleyfreak45 Posted May 29, 2016 Author Posted May 29, 2016 I got them installed but got wrapped up in Memorial Day weekend stuff. And driven quite a bit and really love how planted and responsive the truck is. Hopefully the rears will be in soon. I opted to put the shocks on max height setting and it isn't quite as high as I'd like. Therefore I think I'm going to drop them down to one above stock and put in a 2" spacer. I'll do my best to get pictures and actually lift numbers up ASAP. Ranged from 1.85 to 2" gained per side if I remember correctly.
DeePa Posted May 31, 2016 Posted May 31, 2016 Planted and responsive are the best way to describe the 5100s. Such a great mod for the $. The truck should come with them.
valleyfreak45 Posted May 31, 2016 Author Posted May 31, 2016 Here are the pictures! Had some nasty weather last week. Install is relatively simple. Unbolt top 3 strut bolts (NOT THE CENTER NUT), jack the truck up, use jack stands, pull tires off, unbolt lower 2 strut bolts and I held on to the clips in case I wanted to reuse them but Bilstein sends new nuts to use. The entire strut assembly should slide out after minor wiggling. Once the struts are out, now comes the sketchy fun part. I rented the MacPherson strut compressor from AutoZone to compress the coils. Word of advice with the compressor, spread the clamps as much as possible and use impact to tighten the coils. It gets rather tough and impact expedites the process big time. And the reason I say sketchy is because the compressor feels like a ticking time bomb when compressed so be careful. I compressed until the top hat was loose so it didn't shoot off. Now grab WD40 to loosen up top strut nut and remove the nut. Keep just about everything except Ranchos and their bump caps. Bilstein provides great instruction to install the coils, but I will tell you to make sure to tighten the top strut nut to the top hat after install. I installed to proper torque and the strut still popped around on the test drive. Promptly returned home and grabbed my wrench and Vis grips. Tightening the top hat nut after the assembly is installed is a pain in the ass, highly recommend torquing down GOOD before install. I also posted the post install front heights, the rear heights did not change. The rear 5100s are on the way as is a spacer for the front. Plans are to drop front 5100s down to the 0.75" setting and install a 1.5" spacer.
valleyfreak45 Posted May 31, 2016 Author Posted May 31, 2016 The currently feeling of the way the truck drives is planted, responsive, but a little harsh on the top setting. Also to note is that you almost feel ejected forward with the ranchos still in the rear. The bilsteins respond much quicker and less bouncy while the rear of the truck is still bouncing. Rear 5100s are a must. Things I will note based on my pre install expectations and after. Remember this is a truck and not a Denali at that. Much needed and great improvement over Ranchos but no Cadillac. Bumps are bumps and you will feel them, the way the shocks dampen the bumps is what is key. And Bilstein did a fantastic job engineering to that. I do think the highest setting is a bit harsh simply because the coil is so loaded already. I would like to try a lower setting with a spacer and maybe I will before I install the spacer.
derekc89 Posted May 31, 2016 Posted May 31, 2016 Here are the pictures! Had some nasty weather last week. Install is relatively simple. Unbolt top 3 strut bolts (NOT THE CENTER NUT), jack the truck up, use jack stands, pull tires off, unbolt lower 2 strut bolts and I held on to the clips in case I wanted to reuse them but Bilstein sends new nuts to use. The entire strut assembly should slide out after minor wiggling. Once the struts are out, now comes the sketchy fun part. I rented the MacPherson strut compressor from AutoZone to compress the coils. Word of advice with the compressor, spread the clamps as much as possible and use impact to tighten the coils. It gets rather tough and impact expedites the process big time. And the reason I say sketchy is because the compressor feels like a ticking time bomb when compressed so be careful. I compressed until the top hat was loose so it didn't shoot off. Now grab WD40 to loosen up top strut nut and remove the nut. Keep just about everything except Ranchos and their bump caps. Bilstein provides great instruction to install the coils, but I will tell you to make sure to tighten the top strut nut to the top hat after install. I installed to proper torque and the strut still popped around on the test drive. Promptly returned home and grabbed my wrench and Vis grips. Tightening the top hat nut after the assembly is installed is a pain in the ass, highly recommend torquing down GOOD before install. I also posted the post install front heights, the rear heights did not change. The rear 5100s are on the way as is a spacer for the front. Plans are to drop front 5100s down to the 0.75" setting and install a 1.5" spacer. The top nut on my shocks come loose as well. I used to tighten them every week. Its much better after I put thread lock on the nut.
valleyfreak45 Posted May 31, 2016 Author Posted May 31, 2016 Thanks Derek, I'll be sure to throw the thread lock on there when I have the set final height I like.
Zasker1 Posted May 31, 2016 Posted May 31, 2016 Read Post 349, I am currently running on the second setting, but plan on moving back to the 3rd setting, its just to soft in the front http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/168860-bilstein-shocks-thread/page-24?do=findComment&comment=1772152
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