Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 100,000 miles interior.  

 

IMG_0160.thumb.JPG.93773348112168fad50fad7c51c2ce7d.JPGI

 

No marks, no stains, no tears no visible wear. Looks the same behind the seat, under the seat, in the glovebox. Oh, and Rex lives in here. 

 

In the laundry are the towels that cover the seats. Cleaning and photo op's are the only time the seats are not covered. Seats that are Scotch Guard treated. Vacuumed often and wet cleaned twice a year. Woolite Upholstery Cleaner. Hard surfaces, less glass, are clear cold water and a microfiber with a few drops of Spearmint oil after vacuuming and soft brushes remove the lions share of the dust. I use an impervious seat cover when it goes to the shop and paper floor mat. Carpet squares when in service. Glass is cleaned with close nap microfiber and either distilled water or Invisible Glass depending on the amount of nose art on the film tinting. The boy likes to draw. 

 

 House rules.

Keep your feet on the floor and your hands in your lap! 

 

Kidding. Get a dog to do that. Or the wife!! :crackup:

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

100,000 Mile Under Hood

 

IMG_0165.thumb.JPG.e970dbe4414abe53829584b49a9a1b54.JPG

 

Twice a year this area is detailed using the Chris Fix method (YouTube). It doesn't take long as the compartment is well sealed and there are zero leaks and few spills. None that are not taken care of immediately.

Sorry for the poor morning lighting

 

IMG_0170.thumb.JPG.b776147d2d9d07152e2f76954f886bae.JPG

 

Anyone have know what this device is on the back of the glovebox?

 

Never noticed it before doing cabin filter changes. Speaking of which the one I removed, NAPA was made in EE UU (The US) and the replacement also NAPA from China. The replacement is missing the two stiff sideboards. REALLY? 

 

Late Material Addition

 

I couldn't take not knowing what that item was. Parts department stays it's the glove box door Strut. Ya know, so it don't slam open.

 

:crackup: 

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
Posted

IMG_1384.thumb.JPG.dd792b73173b5e4678e371d743301a26.JPG

 

I get hammered pretty good sometimes over my driving speed. Ya know, holding people up. Being a traffic hazard and all. Thought this photo my give some perspective.

 

This is Illinois 251 and one of my most traveled. See that long line of people waiting for me to move out of the way?

All I see is a bug on my windshield. 

 

? ?  ?

  • Like 2
Posted
20 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

IMG_1384.thumb.JPG.dd792b73173b5e4678e371d743301a26.JPG

 

I get hammered pretty good sometimes over my driving speed. Ya know, holding people up. Being a traffic hazard and all. Thought this photo my give some perspective.

 

This is Illinois 251 and one of my most traveled. See that long line of people waiting for me to move out of the way?

All I see is a bug on my windshield. 

 

? ?  ?

How much air can you get at that little bump in the road near the trees Marty? LOL  Such a view makes for a nice drive in God's creation.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

And the Summer of 2019 comes to an end and a fine end it is.

 

BySeason.thumb.png.e45ef1e5fb6d850730e34d80bff028f6.png

 

 

August numbers for:

2017 27.81 mpg

2018 29.03 mpg

2019 30.08 mpg

 

27.48 mpg as a life time average over 100,000 miles.

 

Next month and season are going to start off rough. Wife's Terrain being down for nearly two weeks means she had my gofer car so first patch where I actually had allot of to town and around town trips. This next tank will also include at least 40 minutes or more of dead idle time at the shop during it's major service. Goes in Friday so wont see much driving this week. 

 

Great! Chance to catch up on paint correction and detailing. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

100,000 Mile Services

 

100,541 actual at time of service. 

Change Inlet filter. AC-Delco, OEM. (last changed at 80K and filter looked quite good yet. Note to increase interval). 

Clean MAF.

Change oil. 3 quarts 0W20 + 3 quarts 5W20. Working off some old stock. 20% OLM left. 

Clean and swap K&P oil filter elements. Nothing really to clean. 

New Plugs. AC-Delco, OEM. A tad of copper paste on the treads. 

New Plug wires. AC-Delco, OEM. Retained factory metal heat shields. There is no factory replacement for these. FYI.

Scope the coils.  

Inspect hoses, belts, vacuum lines and PCV hoses/connections, battery load test. No issues. 

Evap checks. Solid. 

Check coolant strength and residuals.   

Run diagnostics.  

Drop and fill 8 quarts Red Line D6 transmission fluid. Now 95.5% Red Line 4.5% OEM Group III. 

Drop and fill rear differential fluid, AMSOIL 75W90 Severe Gear. ( Note the gasket needs to be replaced on next fill). 

Power bleed brakes. DOT 3

Rotate and balance tires. Pressure checks and wear checks. Amazing. 

Brake inspection. These might last longer than the truck. :)

Clean and grease caliper slides. 

Suspension inspection. Perfect front to back. No measurable wear or damage. 

Cabin Air Filter WIX. I do not like this filter and will find an alternative. NAPA got cheap. Now China made, missing side boards thus sealing stinks. AND it's more expensive than the last one by several dollars. 

Check lights, signals and all controls.

General condition survey. 

3 mile test drive.

 

Have four very small rock chips to repair. We need to do something with the front bumper. It has the measles. She's picked up a chip in the passenger side lower headlamp lens. I'll look into that. Black plastic grill has a small rock divot or two. Nothing visible from a foot away. That black plastic piece under the wipers is getting milky. I'll try some dressings. Under side is dry as a bone and rust free save some surface rust on the leaf springs packs.

 

To do list:

 

Alignment check. 

Clean radiator air inlet side.

Lubricate locks and latches.

Look into getting the windshield polished.  

I've decided not to install the bypass filter system.

Lower fans temperature setting to lower peak water temperatures. (see below notes). 

 

Notes:

 

During the trans fluid procedure she was left idling for an hour to get over 195F for the fluid level final check. Used .36 gallons of fuel.

 

Water temp peaked at 216 F. 

Oil peaked 221 F.

Trans peaked 201 F.

 

Down the road after I got her back we logged 50 miles and at road speeds trans temps were under 150F and I had to run 55 mph minimum to maintain 195 F on the oil on this 64 F night. Water rock steady at 173F.  

     

  • Like 1
Posted

Something to consider for the headlamps are WeatherTech Lampgards. Had them on since my incident in June of 2017 and they do a very fine job of absorbing the onslaught of aerial debris around here. 

 

The brakes on these are incredible. Nearly 131k miles and there's tons of life left. 

  • Like 2
Posted
On 8/31/2019 at 1:52 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

...Wife's Terrain

We need a newer vehicle to replace our Montana and the Terrain is up for consideration but know nothing about its quality and durability.  What year is yours and what can you tell us about it Marty?  TIA.

Posted
6 hours ago, swathdiver said:

We need a newer vehicle to replace our Montana and the Terrain is up for consideration but know nothing about its quality and durability.  What year is yours and what can you tell us about it Marty?  TIA.

Hers is the 2015. Details on the build thread for Sugar Bear. I'll answer there, okay? 

Posted
1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Hers is the 2015. Details on the build thread for Sugar Bear. I'll answer there, okay? 

Sure!  Didn't know there was a thread for it.  Thanks!

Posted (edited)
On ‎8‎/‎19‎/‎2019 at 11:09 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

 100,000 miles interior.  

 

IMG_0160.thumb.JPG.93773348112168fad50fad7c51c2ce7d.JPGI

 

No marks, no stains, no tears no visible wear. Looks the same behind the seat, under the seat, in the glovebox. Oh, and Rex lives in here. 

 

In the laundry are the towels that cover the seats. Cleaning and photo op's are the only time the seats are not covered. Seats that are Scotch Guard treated. Vacuumed often and wet cleaned twice a year. Woolite Upholstery Cleaner. Hard surfaces, less glass, are clear cold water and a microfiber with a few drops of Spearmint oil after vacuuming and soft brushes remove the lions share of the dust. I use an impervious seat cover when it goes to the shop and paper floor mat. Carpet squares when in service. Glass is cleaned with close nap microfiber and either distilled water or Invisible Glass depending on the amount of nose art on the film tinting. The boy likes to draw. 

 

 House rules.

Keep your feet on the floor and your hands in your lap! 

 

Kidding. Get a dog to do that. Or the wife!! :crackup:

I know a guy looking for single cab and will pay cash!  I think this one will fit the bill?

Edited by mookdoc6
  • Like 1
Posted
50 minutes ago, mookdoc6 said:

I know a guy looking for single cab and will pay cash!  I think this one will fit the bill?

Bet he is willing to offer top auction dollar too. :crackup:

  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/7/2019 at 11:44 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

100,000 Mile Services

 

100,541 actual at time of service. 

Change Inlet filter. AC-Delco, OEM. (last changed at 80K and filter looked quite good yet. Note to increase interval). 

Clean MAF.

Change oil. 3 quarts 0W20 + 3 quarts 5W20. Working off some old stock. 20% OLM left. 

Clean and swap K&P oil filter elements. Nothing really to clean. 

New Plugs. AC-Delco, OEM. A tad of copper paste on the treads. 

New Plug wires. AC-Delco, OEM. Retained factory metal heat shields. There is no factory replacement for these. FYI.

Scope the coils.  

Inspect hoses, belts, vacuum lines and PCV hoses/connections, battery load test. No issues. 

Evap checks. Solid. 

Check coolant strength and residuals.   

Run diagnostics.  

Drop and fill 8 quarts Red Line D6 transmission fluid. Now 95.5% Red Line 4.5% OEM Group III. 

Drop and fill rear differential fluid, AMSOIL 75W90 Severe Gear. ( Note the gasket needs to be replaced on next fill). 

Power bleed brakes. DOT 3

Rotate and balance tires. Pressure checks and wear checks. Amazing. 

Brake inspection. These might last longer than the truck. :)

Clean and grease caliper slides. 

Suspension inspection. Perfect front to back. No measurable wear or damage. 

Cabin Air Filter WIX. I do not like this filter and will find an alternative. NAPA got cheap. Now China made, missing side boards thus sealing stinks. AND it's more expensive than the last one by several dollars. 

Check lights, signals and all controls.

General condition survey. 

3 mile test drive.

 

Have four very small rock chips to repair. We need to do something with the front bumper. It has the measles. She's picked up a chip in the passenger side lower headlamp lens. I'll look into that. Black plastic grill has a small rock divot or two. Nothing visible from a foot away. That black plastic piece under the wipers is getting milky. I'll try some dressings. Under side is dry as a bone and rust free save some surface rust on the leaf springs packs.

 

To do list:

 

Alignment check. 

Clean radiator air inlet side.

Lubricate locks and latches.

Look into getting the windshield polished.  

I've decided not to install the bypass filter system.

Lower fans temperature setting to lower peak water temperatures. (see below notes). 

 

Notes:

 

During the trans fluid procedure she was left idling for an hour to get over 195F for the fluid level final check. Used .36 gallons of fuel.

 

Water temp peaked at 216 F. 

Oil peaked 221 F.

Trans peaked 201 F.

 

Down the road after I got her back we logged 50 miles and at road speeds trans temps were under 150F and I had to run 55 mph minimum to maintain 195 F on the oil on this 64 F night. Water rock steady at 173F.  

     

Grumps....I like what I see?  Please don't forget to first clean out the door seals,weatherstrips etc. and condition properly.   Also, please do take my advice and use these......Premium Guard Pure Flow cabin filters p/n PC9958x

I am not a believer or easy to please?  These sir....meet my criteria! 

  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, mookdoc6 said:

Grumps....I like what I see?  Please don't forget to first clean out the door seals,weatherstrips etc. and condition properly.   Also, please do take my advice and use these......Premium Guard Pure Flow cabin filters p/n PC9958x

I am not a believer or easy to please?  These sir....meet my criteria! 

Check, check and double check on the seals and I tossed in the hinges too. 

:) 

Think your going to have to wrestle Jason, my wrench for it anyway. 

 

BTW, who carries this filter? 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
Posted
On 9/9/2019 at 7:21 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

Check, check and double check on the seals and I tossed in the hinges too. 

:) 

Think your going to have to wrestle Jason, my wrench for it anyway. 

 

BTW, who carries this filter? 

Amazon for the filters...price?  don't really remember as I have tried 1/2 dozen brands before finally finding the Gipper!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had an 88 K1500 with a 5.7 that had those symptoms, I know totally different, it ended up being the ECM. Once you get the fuel system fixed if it still runs lousy you may want to investigate that. it didn't set any codes, stalled ,ran rough at times etc
    • Congratulations Isttype, on your gmc. Really like my 2024 2500hd sle doublecab now with 85,500 miles.  I checked the oil today at 4800 miles since last oil change and barely reading on the stick.  I don't care if GM says it's Acceptable adding a quart every 2000 miles because that is 100% BS, It is not a 1966 Harley Shovelhead! Sounds like it's setting up a future failure like I had with my 1500 6.2l. Other than oil consumption problems, I really like the 6.6l gas and 10 speed is really nice.  Towed a light 4000 pound trailer last week and averaged 14 mpg.  I was pretty impressive that a 7300 pound gas truck did 14mpg towing, Later-
    • Long Term Cold Cycle Limited Testing   Back to the 1990's and XOM's million mile test. Since then there have been others and there will be more. Schaeffer's, AMSOIL to name two. Of these Schaeffer's is the stand alone which I will explain in a bit later.    http://papers.sae.org/600190/:   http://papers.sae.org/850215/:   Up to 75% of  engine wear occurs on cold starts. These two links (above) provide the technical reasons for engine wear. In a nut shell, and by a large margin, cylinder wear is what takes out most motors and even with a pre-oiling system that part of the engine is dry enough on cold starts and cold warm up to pierce Stribeck.   So when you put a motor, or a car, on a dyno for a million miles stopping only for oil changes, (yes fuel is uninterrupted) or break down maintenance, you are depriving the test of the most important part of it's wear cycle. Yes a million is then a pretty easy walk even for a mineral oil under those conditions.    How about cleanliness during the long test cycles? Same thing. Varnishes that stick rings and insulate parts are laid down by repetitive 'heat cycles'. It's the cool down the precipitates the varnishes. These long runs also hinder acidic attack caused by cold start richness and less than optimal cold start ring sealing. They hinder water formation and enhance breathing of the crankcase; the petri dish of acid formation, the first step in sludge formation, amalgamation and precipitation. These motors are also monitored and controlled for water and oil temperatures to within the "normal operating range".      https://www.swri.org/sites/default/files/sequence-iiih-test.pdf Note the test sequence in some boutique oils literature for testing, API IIIH, is not the standard used for the ILSAC G7 testing. Does that mean it is irrelevant? No, not as used. As used as a 'visual guide' it makes it's point. The G7 weighted piston deposit minimum is lower.      Back to Schaeffer's. That was a cyclical test of an engine in fleet service and not a dyno mule and if you saw the video it was not mirror clean but wear was low.    There are oils like BioSyn and other 'Renewable" source oils that taught cleanliness and have proven themselves in fleet testing. Havoline an other example.    The newest ILSAC G-7 test prioritize cleanliness, LSPI mitigation and fuel economy OVER WEAR. In comparison Porsche C30 Specification Verses ILSAC G-7 Specification below:      Some will balk that this graph isn't apples to apples and I will challenge that in that this graph represent the SPECIFICATION and not the any One Oil Performance.   It is absolutely possible to minimize wear, maximize cleanliness and mitigate LSPI etc., It just isn't cheap and currently I see none that are not walking toward profit over performance.     
    • I don't think you will need a split, separate product, etc., the OBD port should be able to deliver everything you need. Since your device would be plugged into it all the time, it wouldn't miss anything.    Hardware in this case will be the easiest part of your project - ELM 327 devices will already deliver all the data you need. Reporting/software is where your advantage/marketability is.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...