Jump to content

16 Sierra Front License Plate Bracket


Silva

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone figured out or how to remove the front license plate bracket on a 2016 Sierra? Had a few minutes to check it out this morning but couldn't really get a good look from the underside. If anyone has already done it would appreciate the help.

 

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oe-gm/23354525

Posted

^ yup, its drilled and riveted to the front end, you will have holes in your front end I believe its just the lower sub grill, I told the dealer if they installed it they would be removing it and installing a new lower sub grill when I took delivery, but they didn't installed so all is good.

Posted

Great thanks for the help guys!

 

^ yup, its drilled and riveted to the front end, you will have holes in your front end I believe its just the lower sub grill, I told the dealer if they installed it they would be removing it and installing a new lower sub grill when I took delivery, but they didn't installed so all is good.

 

Yea now I'm not too sure I want to remove the bracket and leave the holes there. Perhaps they may not be as noticeable.

I think this would be the new piece. Pretty damn expensive lol

 

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/gmc/sierra-1500/23243492/2016-year/sle-trim/5-3l-v8-gas-engine/body-cat/bumper-and-components-front-scat/?part_name=skid-plate

 

dcbc8f5add0abdf98b9ebae0af10496d.png

Posted

Took it to my body shop and th drills it out

 

Did you keep the same lower skid plate? How big are the holes?

Posted

The dealer my truck was swapped for didn't listen to my dealer and put mine on. AS said, I drilled the rivets out and removed it. Then I opened the hole up just a little more and pushed those black push pins in to cover the holes. You could even paint them to match if so inclined, but that valence panel is an odd color so I'm not sure if you would find any touch up paint for the color.

Posted

Great thanks for the help guys!

 

 

Yea now I'm not too sure I want to remove the bracket and leave the holes there. Perhaps they may not be as noticeable.

I think this would be the new piece. Pretty damn expensive lol

 

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/gmc/sierra-1500/23243492/2016-year/sle-trim/5-3l-v8-gas-engine/body-cat/bumper-and-components-front-scat/?part_name=skid-plate

 

dcbc8f5add0abdf98b9ebae0af10496d.png

^ correct, there will be 4 holes in that sub grille trim

Posted

The dealer my truck was swapped for didn't listen to my dealer and put mine on. AS said, I drilled the rivets out and removed it. Then I opened the hole up just a little more and pushed those black push pins in to cover the holes. You could even paint them to match if so inclined, but that valence panel is an odd color so I'm not sure if you would find any touch up paint for the color.

 

Got any close up pictures of how it turned out?

Posted

I drilled mine out and removed the plate the day I bought the truck. Went down to a friends body shop the next day and had them order me a new one. I think the non-chrome one was around 150-160 dollars and then paid about 100.00 to have it put on. The whole bumper has to come off in order to install it. Definitely was;t as easy as my 14 Sierra.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...