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Posted

I installed a coolant filter, following the build of a fellow member. After letting the truck warm up, feeling the temperature of the hoses, I'm not sure if I have the hoses going through the filter correctly. I can't see any directional arrows that indicate. I would rather not disconnect a hose to test flow. I can see that the pulley on the water pump is rotating clockwise, but I'm not 100% convinced. Here's some pics.

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Any confirmation on flow direction would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

 

 

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Posted

I want to add that I tried researching throughout the internet, and only found that there's an extremely wide variety of cooling systems, and most flow differently. I think the direction is correct. Just hoping someone can ease my mind with a diagram, or even experience with this particular coolant system.

 

 

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Posted

I gotta ask, why the filter on your cooling system? I guess it keeps the radiator clean of debris for maximum cooling performance and I guess if seals and such start degrading it catches all that crap and doesn't require a flush when you change the coolant?

Posted

My radiator clogged back in 2013 so maybe something like this would have helped.

 

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Posted

Is the crossover there if the filter stops flowing? I would bet that crossover is helping the hot coolant bypass the filter. It would be the path of least resistance vs the filter.

Posted

I gotta ask, why the filter on your cooling system? I guess it keeps the radiator clean of debris for maximum cooling performance and I guess if seals and such start degrading it catches all that crap and doesn't require a flush when you change the coolant?

Yes, that's exactly what I'm hoping for! I've only read good things about these installs. It's a sealed system stock, but dirt still finds its way in. I plan on changing out the filter in probably about 1,000 miles and cutting open the old one, see if I caught anything! But from what I've read, people leave their second filter on for about 25k miles, as the first filter fills up fast from existing junk. All the filters thereafter get to slowly collect contaminants as they arrive.

 

My radiator clogged back in 2013 so maybe something like this would have helped.

 

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It was just over $100 in parts.. hoping it pays off and I don't have to replace anything soon. Plan on keeping this truck for a while! Haha

 

Is the crossover there if the filter stops flowing? I would bet that crossover is helping the hot coolant bypass the filter. It would be the path of least resistance vs the filter.

Well, the setup is designed as a bypass filtration system. Without the bypass, the coolant would be forced to go through the filter. The filter is designed for coolant, but rated at 27 microns, which is relatively restrictive. I was thinking it would put a tremendous strain on the water pump.

With the bypass, the pressure buildup should be relieved. The filter has flow, so it's cleaning at its own rate. The water pump seems to be strong enough to keep flow through both the filter and the bypass.

I thought for a while also about the bypass being an easier path. So I put the tees in that orientation on purpose, in hopes that the coolant would naturally flow straight towards the filter before the harder 90° turn to the bypass. But in retrospect, once everything is moving, shouldn't the pressure equalize throughout the hoses naturally?

 

 

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Posted

I would plug the bypass you installed. Water is going to take the path of least resistance, which means as soon as the filter begins to catch any debris, the coolant will simply use the bypass and avoid the filter.

Posted

I gotta ask, why the filter on your cooling system? I guess it keeps the radiator clean of debris for maximum cooling performance and I guess if seals and such start degrading it catches all that crap and doesn't require a flush when you change the coolant?

 

 

Wondering that myself. My Detroit 12.7L heavy engine doesn't have coolant filter. Currently has 605,000 miles on it and nary a problem. I think proper coolant and changes would prevent a lot of issues. I would question what was the build up in a radiator from? A filter is not going to help with coolant degradation problems, only particulates, and then I would question why the engine was falling apart internally to cause that.

Posted

 

 

Wondering that myself. My Detroit 12.7L heavy engine doesn't have coolant filter. Currently has 605,000 miles on it and nary a problem. I think proper coolant and changes would prevent a lot of issues. I would question what was the build up in a radiator from? A filter is not going to help with coolant degradation problems, only particulates, and then I would question why the engine was falling apart internally to cause that.

I can't say from experience, but from a few forums, a lot of clogging supposedly comes from DexCool. Apparently likes to gum up after a while, even though it's what's recommended. Works fine if it's properly maintained. I didn't solely install it to prevent degradation. Mainly to help any build up or clogging that might occur. Although less debris will probably help flow and help the water pump.

605k, that's pretty awesome!

 

 

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Posted

I would plug the bypass you installed. Water is going to take the path of least resistance, which means as soon as the filter begins to catch any debris, the coolant will simply use the bypass and avoid the filter.

I plan on keeping an eye on it for sure, to see how long it takes to clog up. But as I said earlier, that filter is restrictive, and would put strain on the pump if I didn't have a bypass. There are companies that make high-flow in-line filters, but bypass filters seem to be more common.

The bypass filters clean slowly, and they don't slow down your system as they clog up. That's why I chose it.

 

 

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Posted

I can't say from experience, but from a few forums, a lot of clogging supposedly comes from DexCool. Apparently likes to gum up after a while, even though it's what's recommended. Works fine if it's properly maintained. I didn't solely install it to prevent degradation. Mainly to help any build up or clogging that might occur. Although less debris will probably help flow and help the water pump.

605k, that's pretty awesome!

 

 

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I suppose. I never cared much for the Dexcool stuff. I use the same high grade nitrite free extended life coolant (Final Charge the name) in my GM vehicles that I use in my heavy commercial applications. Confirmed from the technical support people for the coolant I use commercially that it is more than acceptable to use in my GM vehicles. This stuff has a 1 million mile / 8 year life span, though I am too paranoid to take things that long. I change coolant in my GM stuff every 100K miles / 3 years, whichever comes first.

Posted

 

 

I suppose. I never cared much for the Dexcool stuff. I use the same high grade nitrite free extended life coolant in my GM vehicles that I use in my heavy commercial applications. Confirmed from the technical support people for the coolant I use commercially that it is more than acceptable to use in my GM vehicles. This stuff has a 1 million mile / 8 year life span, though I am too paranoid to take things that long. I change coolant in my GM stuff every 100K miles / 3 years, whichever comes first.

I'm interested. What brand is this?

 

 

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Posted

Final Charge. Same stuff that is factory fill now for most all heavy commercial engines. Use it in my Cadillac CTS and my pickups. Most truck stop chains and similar carry the product in 50/50 gallon jugs. Some parts store have it or can get it.

 

http://www.peakhd.com/product-lines/final-charge/faq/

Posted

Okay, so I broke down and disconnected some hoses. The flow was definitely going through the filter backwards. LOL. I switched it around. So everything's confirmed!

Now I just have to wait that thousand miles. I'll cut the filter open and see if I caught anything.

 

 

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