Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looks like another change of the EVAP. Did the part you replaced be an AC Delco part?

 

At least you don't have to pull the bed like I did to get to it.

 

As for the fuel pump, it will cause hard starting. Best way to find out is do check fuel pressure. I got a loaner gauge from Auto Zone to check mine.

Posted

BOught a Dorman part both times (replaced 6 months ago).

 

Dorman 911-032 Vapor Canister Purge Valve

 

I went and filled up and it started fine. Code hasnt come back (yet). Hopefully this thread will help others. The fix is like $20 and maybe 5 mins of work.

Posted

Your original problem was no start after refueling, my response is the same. Your purge valve is stuck open, weather you've changed it or not before.

Posted

BOught a Dorman part both times (replaced 6 months ago).

 

Dorman 911-032 Vapor Canister Purge Valve

 

I went and filled up and it started fine. Code hasnt come back (yet). Hopefully this thread will help others. The fix is like $20 and maybe 5 mins of work.

 

Just an opinion, but........

 

When it comes engine metering, I would stick with stock components that were labeled Delco, Delphi, or GM - only.

 

Some of us had to learn the hard way.

Posted

I have had good luck with Dorman parts in the past, we will see how this one goes

 

Truck ran flawless today and it hasnt the past few wks.

Posted

Another fill up and a week of cold (freezing temps). No issues truck is firing right up again

  • Like 1
  • 4 years later...
Posted

I replaced all the spark plugs rapidfire Delco every part on my truck is completely brand new not saying that something did not break or go bad I know parts go bad I’m having trouble hard start turns over over but don’t start then when it does start sounds like it has a cam in it changed all the injectors brand new check for vacuum leak with brake cleaner replaced all O2 sensors by the way I’m having a low-voltage high-voltage or bank to downstream replace the plug off the main harness didn’t change it I know I have a short somewhere my problem is the truck is not wanting to start when it starts it is completely smells like it is flooded at first I thought the fuel pump it’s brand new change pressure regulator brand new same time when I did the injectors and the plugs But she is running horrible when she does start multiple misfires and then it goes away sometimes and here’s the FYI sometimes I get her to fire right up first time Confused don’t know where to go I have $23,000 in my 2001 Tahoe everything down to the brake lines every charcoal canister every electrical component fuel everything my battery has been acting kind of funny lately I’m going to try changing the fuel pump relay to see if that works any help would be absolutely amazing guys took out the fuel pressure regulator in about a gallon of fuel shout out so has good pressure And change the fuel filter lost I even replace the valve cover with the new system on the driver side I love my Chevy wouldn’t drive anything else please help if you can

Posted (edited)

I had those symptoms once. I got a load of water in the gas from an unfamiliar station. I had to have the tank pumped out.

Edited by Beamie
Posted

Pump the tank out I had some water in the fuel I hit a water puddle about a year ago but I don’t think it’s from that I thought it was for maybe a gas station kind of the same as you I did replace the purge valve solenoid yesterday and it fired right up I’m still getting a lien code or bank to downstream O2 sensor but I just replaced it may be bad part I may be a short in the wire for the roof I bought some fuel out of the where the fuel filter is into a glass jar 

found so water in fuel I ordered the oil catch can

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...