Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well I developed an issue this past Wednesday. After filling up the truck she I went to start it up it wouldn't. Acted like it was starting. All the dash lights came on. After a few mins/tries it started. Has happened 3 straight times now. Every time after it has started fine. Here is a video. Also if I give it gas (which i did in the video) it will start faster

 

Thoughts? I did replace a few of the Evap system parts due to some codes. No codes with this issue

 

https://youtu.be/AtmwZzb-tzM

 

 

Ryan B.

Posted

I think you have a sensor that is going bad. TPS maybe being it starts faster when throttle is pushed. Fuel pressure? :happysad:

Posted

Can you hear the pump run if you just turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine? You will need to be in a very quiet environment to hear it. If your fuel pump is going out sometimes multiple key try's will cause it to work for a few times (VERY FEW) Better go check this right now!

Posted

I know what your doing. This is all part of your plan to talk the wife into letting you order a 2018 model. lol So, this only happens when you run the tank low and then fill up? Do you fill it up to where it won't hold another drop? What about trying to run it empty and then put only 20 bucks worth in it? The reason I ask is my old body style 2007 did something similar to this and I could never completely fill up the tank, always had to stop a little short. Never did find out what it was before I traded for the new 2007's when they came out.

Posted (edited)

From the video there was a "low battery" message on the dic and after you started the volt meter came up very slow, could be the battery because cycling the key kinda zaps the battery (wakes up) and giving you enough power to start.

 

Now that I listened to the video again I did hear the motor turning over which again cycling the key will let the fuel pump build pressure, sounds like your fuel pump is on the way out.

Edited by Silverado4x4
Posted (edited)

I know what your doing. This is all part of your plan to talk the wife into letting you order a 2018 model. lol So, this only happens when you run the tank low and then fill up? Do you fill it up to where it won't hold another drop? What about trying to run it empty and then put only 20 bucks worth in it? The reason I ask is my old body style 2007 did something similar to this and I could never completely fill up the tank, always had to stop a little short. Never did find out what it was before I traded for the new 2007's when they came out.

 

She was in the truck the second time it happened and her words "maybe you do need a new truck" lol

 

It has happened at various levels. The first time I only put in about 6-7 gallons (filling up before we left this weekend). The second fillup was .5-3/4 of a tank. The last fillup was 21 gallons.

 

The battery is just about a year old. Truck turns over fine. If it was the fuel pump going bad I could see this happening every time. What I have read is it is due to the evap system issues?

 

Earlier this year I replaced the evap emission vent valve solenoid (code 0449) and the vapor canister purge valve (0442 and 0445 codes)

Edited by RyanbabZ71
Posted

Purge valve going bad.

 

It was changed 6 months (5K miles) ago. HMMM

Posted

The purge valve is cheap, might be worth trying...

 

Checking fuel pressure would be what I'd try first though. With colder temps and E85 it wouldn't take much of a pressure drop to cause starting issues.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Chances are the fuel pump is good since it runs fine after firing back up, but its worth checking the pressure to be sure. I had the purge valve issue on a Grand Prix. Took a long time before it finally set a code. It was hard to start after fueling, after a few months, it would miss after it fired up after fueling for less than a minute. It only cost about 25 bucks for one from O’Reilly.

Even though you replaced it a few months back. it might be shot especially if it was from Auto Zone or another crappy auto parts store.

Posted

It was an OEM ad deodorant version. It was pretty cheap and easy to replace most likely start there

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

If your purge valve sticks open all the fumes are forced to the plenum and your truck will act like it's flooded. Put pedal to the metal and it should start right up. ( Release pedal at this time or you will really need a new truck :D )

Posted

Threw a code this morning. Going to run it shortly [emoji1304]

 

 

Ryan B.

Posted

P0496 Chevrolet Description The evaporative emission (EVAP) control system limits fuel vapors from escaping into the atmosphere. Fuel tank vapors are allowed to move from the fuel tank, due to pressure in the tank, through the vapor pipe, into the EVAP canister. Carbon in the canister absorbs and stores the fuel vapors. Excess pressure is vented through the vent line and EVAP vent solenoid to the atmosphere. The EVAP canister stores the fuel vapors until the engine is able to use them. At an appropriate time, the PCM will command the EVAP purge valve open, allowing engine vacuum to be applied to the EVAP canister. With the EVAP vent valve open, fresh air will be drawn through the valve and vent line to the EVAP canister. Fresh air is drawn through the canister, pulling fuel vapors from the carbon. The air/fuel vapor mixture continues through the EVAP purge pipe and EVAP purge valve into the intake manifold to be consumed during normal combustion. The EVAP system requires the PCM be able to detect a leak as small as 0.040 inch in the EVAP system. The PCM uses several tests to determine if the EVAP system is leaking.

Possible causes - Faulty EVAP Canister Vent Valve - Faulty EVAP Canister Purge valve - Plugged EVAP canister condition - Faulty EVAP Pressure Sensor - EVAP Canister Vent Valve harness is open or shorted - EVAP Canister Vent Valve circuit poor electrical connection

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs.    Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process. 
    • I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 
    • Very often the part number on the trim part is just for the vendor order/assembly plant and will not show up in the parts system.  They won't make a bunch of extra parts that were not ordered. Keep in mind, lots of these parts were made to be "just in time" parts meaning they were dedicated to a vehicles ordered and sequenced for assembly.       Also, trim parts will often say, paint to match.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...