Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

He did tell me to bring it to another mechanic.

 

 

^

I think you meant to post "towed to another mechanic" as in on a roll off, you really shouldn't be driving this thing anywhere.

Posted

Thanks for your insights. I still drive it everywhere. I can only make it Happen in the same spot. I will bring it to a mechanic soon and let y'all know what the problem was. I've heard that sometimes with new cars you have to update the computer software because cars no have electric powered steering.

Posted

Oh and it's silver. I tested it in my neighborhood (same speed and angle,, etc) nothing happened.

Glad it's a different truck.
Posted

Thanks for your insights. I still drive it everywhere. I can only make it Happen in the same spot. I will bring it to a mechanic soon and let y'all know what the problem was. I've heard that sometimes with new cars you have to update the computer software because cars no have electric powered steering.

Software updates are pesky things now a days. It's possible that a software update could fix, but I really think something is killing the electrical system. I think that is why you get all the warnings as the network dies and sometimes it extends to the engine controls.

 

Just to rule out anything in the steering assembly, find a big parking lot and start doing circles. Slowly tighten the circle until you're at full steering wheel lock. Go both ways. If you don't get anything there, go back to where it does happen. Try it over and over again, but with different things on/off. Heater, blower, radio, headlights, heated steering wheel, etc. And see if any of that changes anything.

 

Anything unusual, odd, different about the location that it does happen at? Anything cell phone towers or anything? Note time of day, all that. If you can provide the shop with anything useful, it could save yourself some money or you could figure it out.

Posted

Hi! My 2014 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ runs great and drive great. Love it. One problem though... my steering wheel locks up and I will get 3-4 quick messages saying Intellik, stabillik, and park assist off. (Spelling is off for sure because I can't read them in time) it happens when my foot is off the acceleration and turning. It ONLY occurs in my friends neighborhood entrances!! Weird!! Never happens anywhere else. Usually the steering wheel locks up for 2-3 sec but today it lock up and I went up on the curb and the engine shut off. I drove home fine though. Any thoughts??

 

Hi! My 2014 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ runs great and drive great. Love it. One problem though... my steering wheel locks up and I will get 3-4 quick messages saying Intellik, stabillik, and park assist off. (Spelling is off for sure because I can't read them in time) it happens when my foot is off the acceleration and turning. It ONLY occurs in my friends neighborhood entrances!! Weird!! Never happens anywhere else. Usually the steering wheel locks up for 2-3 sec but today it lock up and I went up on the curb and the engine shut off. I drove home fine though. Any thoughts??

I have a 2014 Sierra with 74,000 miles. I am having the same problem. I had the exact same issue right after I bought the truck a little more than a year ago when it had 64000 miles. truck will completely stall for 2-3 seconds and flash the service stabilitrack. Al the lights will flash on dashboard as well. Took to dealership and they said it was simply a loose battery terminal. they charged me a diagnostic fee and that was it. Everything was good up till yesterday when I went to make a U-turn and it did it again. I had my kids in the truck and almost got creamed by oncoming traffic! I am truly PISSED! There is no loose terminals any where I can find this time. This truck is scary to drive and I will not put my kids in it again. Nothing like buying a $30,000 truck and being scared to drive it. Gm needs to figure this out because people will die because of this issue if they havnt already. I feel like my local dealership is out to try and avoid fixing anything they don't have to. Taking to dealer tomorrow and will report back when I hear from them, if I don't die on the way there! If anyone from GM reads this I hope yall understand your dealing with peoples lives here and this is serious.

  • Like 1
Posted

Dayton,

 

Document it all the best you can and I'll bet your attorney can get answers. Locking steering wheels while on motion is like smoking in a dynamite factory.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

I have a 2014 Sierra with 74,000 miles. I am having the same problem. I had the exact same issue right after I bought the truck a little more than a year ago when it had 64000 miles. truck will completely stall for 2-3 seconds and flash the service stabilitrack. Al the lights will flash on dashboard as well. Took to dealership and they said it was simply a loose battery terminal. they charged me a diagnostic fee and that was it. Everything was good up till yesterday when I went to make a U-turn and it did it again. I had my kids in the truck and almost got creamed by oncoming traffic! I am truly PISSED! There is no loose terminals any where I can find this time. This truck is scary to drive and I will not put my kids in it again. Nothing like buying a $30,000 truck and being scared to drive it. Gm needs to figure this out because people will die because of this issue if they havnt already. I feel like my local dealership is out to try and avoid fixing anything they don't have to. Taking to dealer tomorrow and will report back when I hear from them, if I don't die on the way there! If anyone from GM reads this I hope yall understand your dealing with peoples lives here and this is serious.

I think the death count was in the low teens for the ignition switches. It's now over 120. So far I haven't heard of any deaths for steering. I don't think they pay much attention until the death toll is in double digits. I couldn't see shit out of my Silverado at night. "Your good" is not the answer for something like that.

 

None of these companies really care. Chrysler has vehicles rolling out of park, Ford had vehicles dropping out park into reverse. Toyota had the unintended acceleration. Nothing is flawless. The problem is they all avoid the issue at first until they are called on the carpet by the NTSB.

Posted

Thanks for the replies. Dayton, please give us your feedback as I will for mine. I'm bringing mine in to Gerry lane GMC-Cadillac this Wednesday or Thursday. If they say something about the battery, I will tell them about your situation and how your problem continued. I've called mechanics around town and some have no clue as to what the problem might be. I think it is an electrical problem and not mechanical. Something is causing the stabilitrack to go off and then it causes it to shut off. Hopefully Gerry Lane knows what the problem is and can fix it. I'm also going to get the recals fixed while it's in.

Posted

They fixed all recal items and told me the problem was that a wheel was slipping on the turn causing traction control to stop the truck or something. So they told me to turn traction control off...

Posted

Wow..The incompetence I've heard of and expanded lately is mind boggling. So the traction control caused the truck to shut off? That's what the dealer is saying?

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
    • Thks, and actually it was my bad, because here in this post there is someone showing the correct wire position as well. My bad... But thank you a lot with the help as well. I was able to find and buy a 10 channel VPM that came from a sister silverado of mine. The same year, same mode, same trim, same everything. 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD LTZ (pre-refresh). I also found to buy just the bottom mirror part that has the cameras, so way cheap than the full mirror. + a used front camera. I did test everything together, cameras, cables and the VPM.... everything worked EXCEPT my original Bed camera and the backup grid lines. I think the reason is because now I need to do the VPM reprogram. I sent a msg White Automotive & Media Service to confirm that it is the problem and that they can do it service for me case.   Once I get it 100% done I will post here result....
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...