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What is this chirping?

dsr611

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dsr611 Senior Enthusiast

dsr611

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2010 GMC Sierra 5.3L V8

125000 miles

I just got home and stopped in the driveway to get the mail. When I got out of the truck, I heard this chirping noise. It seems to be coming from driver side of the engine and gets faster as RPMs increase. I checked the pulleys that I could get to using the "screwdriver stethoscope" method and it doesn't sound like any of them are the culprit. It was not making this noise just 5 minutes earlier when I stopped to get gas.

 

 

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted

Almost sounds like a lifter/camshaft failure here the roller is pitted up. That's what it reminded me of at first when I heard it. If you take the belt off does the noise go away?

dsr611 Senior Enthusiast

dsr611

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Almost sounds like a lifter/camshaft failure here the roller is pitted up. That's what it reminded me of at first when I heard it. If you take the belt off does the noise go away?

I haven't yet...just walked in the door and uploaded the video and posted on here to get some ideas. About to head back out and start checking everything that I can.

dsr611 Senior Enthusiast

dsr611

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Also, just unplugged my Range AFM disabler and plugged my scanner in to check for any codes. No codes showing up...would the lifter/camshaft failure throw any codes?

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted

Also, just unplugged my Range AFM disabler and plugged my scanner in to check for any codes. No codes showing up...would the lifter/camshaft failure throw any codes?

It could if it were bad enough to cause a skip. But if it just started probably not.

Chevor Senior Enthusiast

Chevor

Posted
Posted

Could be dry belt. My experience is AcDelco belts tend to start chipping after about 20,000 miles

muddkatt Senior Enthusiast

muddkatt

Posted
Posted

Pull the belts and check the idler and tensioner pulleys.

dsr611 Senior Enthusiast

dsr611

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Pulled serpentine belt and started it for a few seconds and it's still chirping. Was about to pull AC belt but darkness took over and it started raining. Which leads to another question...what's the best way to remove the AC belt since there's not a tensioner for it? Turn crank and push belt off while turning? Cut belt and go back with new (I'll likely change both belts anyway, since I'll have them off already, if the noise does turn out to be a pulley).

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted

Pulled serpentine belt and started it for a few seconds and it's still chirping. Was about to pull AC belt but darkness took over and it started raining. Which leads to another question...what's the best way to remove the AC belt since there's not a tensioner for it? Turn crank and push belt off while turning? Cut belt and go back with new (I'll likely change both belts anyway, since I'll have them off already, if the noise does turn out to be a pulley).

They make a tool for removing it but I have found when removing it, it gets stretched to far out. I just cut and replace. But if you removed the belt and it is still there it is a pitted roller lifter and cam. I have seen it too many times.

dsr611 Senior Enthusiast

dsr611

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Yesterday on my way to the gym, the chirping became more of a loud ticking noise. Left the gym and came in to work nights this weekend and got to youtubing lifter noise, lifter ticking, etc. Saw a bunch of videos that recommended using Rislone or Marvel Mystery Oil to quieten the ticking down. I figured what the heck...I stopped at WalMart this morning and grabbed a small bottle of Rislone and poured it in the oil filler. Drove on home and went to bed. Got up around and went to the gym about 2 this afternoon and noticed that the ticking would get lower and lower in volume. Got to work and opened the hood and there was no ticking or chirping at all. I know it's just a band-aid on the problem and not a repair, but I have decided that I'm going to order the AFM/DOD Delete Kit from TSP and go ahead and replace all the lifters, valley plate, crank, etc (unless someone can recommend another place to order it from). I searched and didn't find anything on here, but is there a write-up or how-to on installing the AFM/DOD delete kit?

 

This is the video from when I got to work this evening...

 

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted

Sometimes what will happen is the roller of the lifter will get to a place without pits and quiet down as well. This isn't an AFM problem you're having this is just a lifter issue in general. Up to you if you want to do the delete.

dsr611 Senior Enthusiast

dsr611

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Sometimes what will happen is the roller of the lifter will get to a place without pits and quiet down as well. This isn't an AFM problem you're having this is just a lifter issue in general. Up to you if you want to do the delete.

I'm ordering the AFM delete kit from TSP tomorrow. Found a local shop that offers the kit and install and said that the cost would be $3500+ depending on what exactly they do. He said that the heads need to be re-worked and that the oil pump needed to be replaced with a higher pressure pump. I have emailed TSP and they said the heads wouldn't need any work unless they were damaged and that the oil pump would actually put out a higher pressure one the AFM parts are removed. Will be doing the work myself. Any tips?

muddkatt Senior Enthusiast

muddkatt

Posted
Posted

Have a friend that JUST did his 07 Suburban last week with their kit. I will ask him for pointers and report back tomorrow.

muddkatt Senior Enthusiast

muddkatt

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Posted

Called and ask for feedback and here is his response:

 

Call and order the kit, don't try and figure it online. The kit made it a smooth painless install. Don't buy the gasket set from them, pick up a kit locally. He ended up spending more money having to buy some gaskets separately. He had the heads off and redone while the kit was in transit, new valve seals etc. As soon as you order the kit, ship your ECM to them so that they can reprogram it. By the time you get the kit installed, the ECM should be back to you. He forgot about shipping the ECM to them and he was delayed in getting the Suburban fired back up by a few days, totally his fault.

 

While he has not had it on the road long enough to KNOW for sure, it appears that the oil consumption has ceased, or at the very lest slowed down dramatically.

 

He did not change the oil pump, had good pressure before and still has good pressure.

GhostWriter Enthusiast

GhostWriter

Posted
Posted

One good thing about changing the pump is you would discover the oil pickup o-ring had disintegrated.

 

The gerotor-style pump is situated high & dry, compared to the ones immersed in the pan. The sub-standard OE o-ring allows air to enter on the suction side, contributing to the lifter tick, we all think is completely normal on the 5.3.

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