Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just wanted to thank 67firebird455 and others for the fix on the DVD screen.  Mine went out for a second time recently (first time it was still under original warranty) so I took it to a local dealer.  They charged $50 diagnostic fee to tell me the screen was bad and I would need a whole new assembly which would cost $620+ tax.  I found this thread, tried reversing the cable at first with no luck, so I bought a new 40 pin ribbon.  Unfortunately, the 20 pack was on back order, so I ordered 1 from another seller on amazon for $20 (I know it was a mark up, but I was anxious to get it done and its still a lot less than $620.  It worked and my middle row DVD player is now functional.  Thank you to everyone for the posts.  Also, want to reiterate the disappointment in GM as I have had a multitude of other issues with my Yukon Denali XL including a bent pushrod last year that put me in a loner for 2 months as one of the parts was on backorder.  Too many issues for a $73000 vehicle.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 11/30/2017 at 10:57 PM, 67firebird455 said:

Anyone with second row overhead DVD issues in 2015+ GM suvs where the backlight works but no video, or you are unable to open the screen all the way without losing picture, the solution is easy. Remove, disassemble, and flip the 40 pin ribbon cable, reassemble, reinstall, and call it a day.

My 2015 Yukon XL Denali has just 50k on the ticker, and had this issue. GM is not standing behind the junk of a vehicle this has been within the two years of ownership, and I am not paying $700 to replace the second row DVD player.

I hope this helps someone with the same ridiculous problem. All you need is a Phillips screwdriver, a small flat-head, a ratchet/driver, and a 7mm socket.  This literally takes less than 30 minutes total to do.  

 

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

6.jpg

7.jpg

8.jpg

9.jpg

Do I turn it upside down or just flip the connections? I turned it upside down and now I have a black screen..

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Shocked to see so many others with this problem! The steps to flip the cable were extremely well put together, I did it in under an hour...It didn't fix the backlight back to video screen, but my kids had yanked hard on the screen and probably opened a circuit or two.  I'm ordering the amazon 20p and I have high hopes this will fix the issue. Thanks 67firebird455 for the photos and others for their updates!

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C4P6S43/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_otjBBbHKHBVVR

Posted

Hi, I have 2019 GMC Yukon XL. Both rows have DVD players and both have been replaced once. Today, both stopped working. I JUST had the middle row replaced Oct. 30th!! What in the world?! I had a Honda Odyssey for 8 years and never had an issue. I’ve have this one a little over a year (bought Oct. 19). Anyone have any advice?

Posted

I want to thank everyone for all of their comments and information.  Because of this post, I was able to order 20 ribbon cables from amazon for $7 and perform this repair in about 30 minutes (with three kids hovering over and asking repeatedly if I can fix it). The hardest part was lining Up the screws and reinstalling into the ceiling of the car. I looked like a hero and have a very happy family. Thank you VERY much!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Wow, thank you so much, just did this for my 2016 in about 30 min. It is so easy, and I probably would have been less stressful if I just slowed down. 

 

We have lived with the screen needing to be in a certain position for it to work, to not working at all for about a year. I just looked this up and doubted it could be as easy as flipping around that ribbon, so procrastinated for a few weeks, but sure enough it works. 

Posted

This solved my problem!!! Only took about 25-30 min with some patience. Thanks so much!!!

 

For anyone looking for a video. This guy's video show step by step how to replace the cable

 

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just bought a used 2015 Yukon XL. We didn't necessarily plan on buying one with DVD so didn't have one to check it with before we bought it. I asked and of course salesman said it all worked. I get it home (2 hours away) and middle screen doesn't work. The 3rd row screen works, but also can't get the remote or headphones to work. We took apart 2nd row dvd and flipped the pin. Still doesn't work but I have ordered a new one to try that. However when working on that we realized the in-dash screen isn't playing the movie either. It doesn't have a book with it, so do I just not know how to work it? or is the in-dash another problem? Anyone had trouble with it? and the remote and headphones?   Can you hook regular wireless headphones to it? or do i have to buy the gm ones? (they are $100 for 2) 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

What does "flip the ribbon" mean? flip it over and re-insert same ends? Or switch ends of the ribbons from board to screen? 

Posted

Had the same issue with mine. I ordered a cable and replaced with no luck. The issue for me turned out to be the switch that turns the display on and off when it opens and closes.

 

I haven't bee able to find this switch anywhere. 

Does anyone on here know how to get one?

 

ThanksIMG_5662.thumb.JPEG.bdf3174549ca56dcd77edebb8d3e5ba4.JPEG

Posted
On 10/15/2018 at 1:18 PM, edittman1 said:

Found a replacement unit for $150 on ebay. Costly mistake. You can also go new for about $300.. 

Hello @edittman1

 

I did the same thing to mine, snapped the connector that holds the ribbon in. What did you end up doing, and where did you find the $150 part to try and fix it?

  • 2 months later...
Posted

2018 Cadillac Escalade esv. Same issues with 2nd row tv. After ordering 2 TVs and they didn't work or didn't fit I did the ribbon flip. IT FREAKING WORKED Thanks all

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 12/26/2017 at 4:09 PM, Mark Kelly said:

I got the new cable to today and installed it.  Everything is back to working order.   Thanks @67firebird455 for making the posting that got me started on the trail to solving my problem!  This is the cable I used that fixed the problem.

 

Flat Ribbon cable 40 Pin 0.5mm Pitch 200mm long FFC/FPC Reverse Direction (see picture below)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flat-Ribbon-cable-40-Pin-0-5mm-Pitch-200mm-long-FFC-FPC-Reverse-Direct-1pc/112412362149?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

So $3.50 + shipping and the problem is solved.  I actually bought a couple of them just in case I need to do this again in the future.   Anyone else looking to do this, I still recommend that you get a good pry tool for opening up the screen.  It's not hard to open, but there are a lot of tabs.  Since I've done this a couple times now I've broken 3 or 4 tabs myself, but there are plenty of them on the case so missing a few doesn't cause any issues and everything still snaps back together nicely.

 

Hope my added info actually helps some of you out. I'll also confirm that this takes about 30 - 45 minutes to complete at the most.

 

s-l1600.jpg

How did you get this ribbon to stay in the slot? There are no notches like the original part that was covered with the silver wrap. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...