Where is my oil going? Update

flyboyron · May 24, 2017

The valve cover cost around $80.00. To have it installed was another $60.00.

The range which you can get at Amazon, is about 180.00.

I had the oil changed at the same time so the total cost would be about $370.00.

13rado · May 31, 2017

Chevrolet? I'm so over you guys! I loved my 03 and paid way too much for a rattling 13 silverado that I'm sure will go belly up before 100k is reached. Anyway we shouldn't have to replace lifters in a 45k truck some paid more some paid less, but nonetheless it's not cheap. I got the diablo active fuel management cut off for the obd port I'm trying not to have these problems before they start. Even my 03 had lifter tick but these forums have scared the crap out of me . Does anyone know if the 13 models were as bad or did they get updated parts ? We shouldn't have to "tune" a new truck , chevy you really upset me as well as millions of others that are now stuck with your truck. Cheap plastic dashes that break for no reason and rattles that drive me insane! I have a 1992 accord with 300k miles that doesn't rattle like this . Sorry guys had to be said

PipeLyfe · June 14, 2017

I posted here before in this subject. Just thought I'd update. So I was headed out of town last Friday and with all the oil issues I've been having plus my truck just running sluggish I decided to have the oil changed at a lube center. I run royal purple and they said they'd need to flush it first - not sure but ok. Flushed and added synthetic Mobile 1. Cost $130. As I'm standing there looking at the autozone across the street I think "why did I just do this" Anyway fast forward to this last week:there's been 600 miles driven on this oil change. I leave a customers house and hear a knocking sound ricocheting off of the brick houses as I drive by. So I slow and the sound slows I speed up it gets faster. ITS MY TRUCK!! Then all the sudden it quieted down. I pull over to check the oil and it's not registering on the stick. I was a quart and a half low. WTF?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It's Tim · June 14, 2017

Are you sure the oil level was ever correct after the oil change it's better to check everytime when you fuel up. Was the engine flushed due to neglect and a build up of deposits? Low oil level does not equal low oil pressure unless there is no oil, motor is probably already trashed if it's knocking.

Justin101714 · June 14, 2017

Are you sure the oil level was ever correct after the oil change it's better to check everytime when you fuel up. Was the engine flushed due to neglect and a build up of deposits? Low oil level does not equal low oil pressure unless there is no oil, motor is probably already trashed if it's knocking.

+1

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

newdude · June 14, 2017

600 miles and that much oil disappeared? Sounds like the jiffy place shorted you 2 quarts as these are a 8 quart capacity.

BTW...NEVER let them do an oil flush, and NEVER do an oil flush. They hosed you on that hard. You can switch brands (RP to M1) not gonna hurt anything.

MaverickZ71 · June 14, 2017

Oil flushes can be dangerous if they break some big chunks of sludge loose that then block critical passages (follow instructions to the letter) and they can also be hard on seals.

If you have been using Royal Purple and Mobil1, there should have not been that much sludge in your engine, unless you bought it used and it had been abused before.

The main thing is to get your AFM turned off. My truck got to the point (at about 35K miles) where it was using 1 1/2 quarts in 200 miles at 80mph. All with no major leaks (minor oil cooler line sweating/occasional drip) or noticable smoking. All that oil was fouling the spark plugs and the thing wouldn't hardly idle at stoplights. Then I had the revised valve cover and oil deflector in the oilpan installed and turned off AFM using a Range V8 module. Now it uses 1 to 2 quarts between oil changes at the Oil Life Monitor-indicated 6K miles. Still too much, in my opinion, but much better than it was. If I had it to do over again, I would've insisted that they replace the piston rings under warranty. Depending on the fuel I'm using, it still doesn't idle as smoothly as I'd like.

People with AFM problems are stuck in a Catch-22 type of situation. You need to use synthetic or semi-synthetic oil to help protect what's left of your lifters and cam (hence GM switching to the Dexos1 requirement back in '10 or '11), but synthetic oil blows right on by the fouled rings and gets used up faster that dino oil. And as you know, Royal Purple/Mobil1/Pennzoil Platinum, etc. full-synthetic oil ain't cheap. Your 2009 only holds 6 quarts total of oil, so if you're running around on 3-4 quarts, that's not a good thing, especially in hot weather. All of your extra idling (many hours of running at the same rpm) is just adding to the chance of your piston rings getting fouled and stuck. If they get stuck with the ring gaps in alignment, oil can blow by them like nobody's business.

If I had the $, I'd find a good automotive specialty shop and have them rebuild my engine with the AFM deleted (like using the Texas Speed Shop AFM-delete parts package) and maybe even put an Edelbrock E-force supercharger on it at that time. The rest of my truck is in pretty good shape, it's just the engine situation that sucks. Which is the total opposite of what my prior GM experience was.