8" stock headunit + after market amp + subs, issue after half volu

[Waterfowler41]

What about having loud chimes

Doesn't bother me.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Knotsure]

I don't know about the loud chime, don't have any highs on an amp yet and my sub signal is filtered at 60hz. I was wondering about the chime.

 

 

2014 Chevy silverado Z71 DCSB w/Bilstein 5100 level

[cbrsilv15]

Just use some posi-tap to hook up the LC2i to the speaker wires you're tapping into.

 

 

What about the guys without Bose? Do the rear speaker wires run on the back of the cab or do you have to tap into them by the doors?

[Nicholas La Croix]

Do you have have the bose unit? My truck has the bose unit with the front bench seat. So the amp is in the back behind the back seat. I tapped in to the wire coming off he amp for the front woofers, and im getting the same issue with the base being spotty.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[audioworks04]

Do you have have the bose unit? My truck has the bose unit with the front bench seat. So the amp is in the back behind the back seat. I tapped in to the wire coming off he amp for the front woofers, and im getting the same issue with the base being spotty.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have bose and tapped wires off the bose amp to the bose sub for signal to my lc2i. Crystal clear with zero problems. I cannot emphasize enough how awesome the lc2i is. I have ran plenty of cheap converters in the past with mediocre results, this blows them all out of the water.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Knotsure]

I have bose and tapped wires off the bose amp to the bose sub for signal to my lc2i. Crystal clear with zero problems. I cannot emphasize enough how awesome the lc2i is. I have ran plenty of cheap converters in the past with mediocre results, this blows them all out of the water.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1

 

It was designed specifically for the issue you are having OP.

 

 

2014 Chevy silverado Z71 DCSB w/Bilstein 5100 level

[jpinoy]

What about the guys without Bose? Do the rear speaker wires run on the back of the cab or do you have to tap into them by the doors?

You would probably have to tap by the doors.

 

search in this thread, as some have done what you're looking to do without a Bose setup:

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153662-adding-aftermarket-subamp/

[Waterfowler41]

You would probably have to tap by the doors.

 

search in this thread, as some have done what you're looking to do without a Bose setup:

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153662-adding-aftermarket-subamp/

In a non-Bose application if you're just running sub(s) the signals to the rear speakers found in the b-pillar harness are fine to use and pretty easy to get too. But I have heard that they are not full signal so best to pull from fronts if you want to amplify speakers.

 

I have a non-Bose and I pull all four channels from behind the stereo, send them to an lc6i then to a 5 channel amp, then back to the headunit harness to use the factory wires to get signal to speakers. I have the loud door chime but I'm partially deaf anyways so it only bothers my wife.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cbrsilv15]

Thanks. I don't plan on amplifying the door speakers for now. So you just tapped intot the front speakers in the green plug behind the radio, and ran extra speaker wiring back to the lc6i? I see the lc needs a power wire. Did you just keep the lc6i in the back beside the amp and split the power feed with a small distribution block? It looks like I don't need a remote wire to turn on the lc2i since it'll get power from the speaker feed.

[Waterfowler41]

Thanks. I don't plan on amplifying the door speakers for now. So you just tapped intot the front speakers in the green plug behind the radio, and ran extra speaker wiring back to the lc6i? I see the lc needs a power wire. Did you just keep the lc6i in the back beside the amp and split the power feed with a small distribution block? It looks like I don't need a remote wire to turn on the lc2i since it'll get power from the speaker feed.

Yep, you can use t-taps to steal the signal without breaking the wires. Run it to the rear and into the lc2. Auto on should give you your switch. For my power I did just that, ran a piece of 12 gauge from the power terminal on my amp and into my processor.

 

I mounted everything to MDF then used 3M doubt stick tape (the heavy duty crap) to affix it to back of cab wall. Still holding nicely. My sub sits under the passenger side rear seat.

 

If you have the option I would highly recommend the sub volume knob. I love instant control of the bass.

 

Knuconceptz has great pricing on wire if you haven't purchased it yet.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cbrsilv15]

Sweet thanks. I already have some wiring left over from my last setup. My RF amp has a bass knob with it so I should be good. I'll probably just do a single 10 or 12 for now. There's some Kicker comp R's in a prefab box with .7cf. It's small, but my last box was even smaller with 2 12's.

[Waterfowler41]

I have a single 10 low profile and it's plenty for me. Country, rock, trolls soundtrack on repeat for my son...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Silver-n-black]

I notice on my setup 2 Sundown e-8's it doesn't play low frequency. Anyone else notices that issue?

 

using The audiocontrol LC-2

[Knotsure]

I notice on my setup 2 Sundown e-8's it doesn't play low frequency. Anyone else notices that issue?

 

using The audiocontrol LC-2

My JL goes down to 30hz. It plays better at 35hz and up. I have a sealed enclosure. Go ported and see if you get that low

 

 

2014 Chevy silverado Z71 DCSB w/Bilstein 5100 level

[Silver-n-black]

My box is ported tuned to 32hz, I got songs that play down to 17hz. I notice high 30's and 40's play well. Wish it could play lower.