Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Oddly enough, I already have a couple of those from the exact same vendor! Mine are currently in the back. My kids are still in booster seats, and the extenders make it much easier for them to get buckled. As luck would have it, my daughter just crossed the age where she no longer needs the booster, so I may be able to relocate the extender. Great idea. Hadn't even thought about that.

 

Has anyone fiddled with the chime module itself (or is it even reachable without major dashboard teardown)? I'm still thinking about a good foam wrap. Also wondered if a resistor could be spliced into one of the feed lines. The mechanical engineer in me refuses to give up. :)

 

You can get the extenders for free from the dealership, I got two for when I am hunting and don't need a seatbelt.

Posted

I hadn't noticed how loud it is until after I had a sound system upgrade done, I wasn't able to find any settings on the touchscreen or on the MID. It sounds like I'll need to have a dealer do this...Thanks to all for the info.

Posted

You can also go to a salvage yard and cut out a buckle for free. At least they only chime twice, unlike Ford trying to force you to live your life by their rules.

Posted

Took my vehicle in for servicing and mentioned the ear ringing chime volume and that I thought there was a TSB to remedy it. They looked at me like I was nuts. But said they would check on it.

 

They found nothing and it still rings my ears when it goes off. Annoying as hell.

Posted

Took my vehicle in for servicing and mentioned the ear ringing chime volume and that I thought there was a TSB to remedy it. They looked at me like I was nuts. But said they would check on it.

 

They found nothing and it still rings my ears when it goes off. Annoying as hell.

The Bulletin #PIT5328b was written on my work order. I hope this helps. The improvement for me was significant.

  • Like 2
Posted

 

Has anyone fiddled with the chime module itself (or is it even reachable without major dashboard teardown)? I'm still thinking about a good foam wrap. Also wondered if a resistor could be spliced into one of the feed lines. The mechanical engineer in me refuses to give up. :)

The chime module is built into the radio from my understanding. The turn signal is also generated here as well. This is why the noises come from the speakers. Short of replacing the radio or messing with the speakers, the dealer service mentioned above is the only way I know to adjust it. Breaking the chime also breaks the signal noise.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

The Bulletin #PIT5328b was written on my work order. I hope this helps. The improvement for me was significant.

 

That's the exact one that is on my work order. But for the me the change was noticeable but not low enough.

Posted

Had the truck in for 1 of my free oil/tire visits today and asked about the chime volume. Like Hawkeye mentioned above, I got a "deer in the headlights" stare from the shop's supposed electrical guru. Kicking myself as I hadn't been back on this thread for a while and Donstar referenced an actual TSB. Grrr.

 

Will take that with me next time I go back as I didn't have time today for them to research from scratch. I've ticked off many a person on the other end of my Bluetooth phone connection as the speaker sits right below the microphone. It's bad enough in the cab, but they say it's earsplitting on the other end.

 

I've played with the radio's chime volume setting some more, but it honestly appears to do NOTHING at all in either direction. Same thing for automatic mirror fold (or something like that). Can't figure out what it does when enabled. For what it's worth, the reverse mirror tilt setting does work, but I don't like it. Too disorienting for me when trying to back with mirrors. Just my luck. The 2 settings I want to work, don't. And the 1 setting I don't care anything about, does. *sigh*

Posted

Had the truck in for 1 of my free oil/tire visits today and asked about the chime volume. Like Hawkeye mentioned above, I got a "deer in the headlights" stare from the shop's supposed electrical guru. Kicking myself as I hadn't been back on this thread for a while and Donstar referenced an actual TSB. Grrr.

 

Will take that with me next time I go back as I didn't have time today for them to research from scratch. I've ticked off many a person on the other end of my Bluetooth phone connection as the speaker sits right below the microphone. It's bad enough in the cab, but they say it's earsplitting on the other end.

 

I've played with the radio's chime volume setting some more, but it honestly appears to do NOTHING at all in either direction. Same thing for automatic mirror fold (or something like that). Can't figure out what it does when enabled. For what it's worth, the reverse mirror tilt setting does work, but I don't like it. Too disorienting for me when trying to back with mirrors. Just my luck. The 2 settings I want to work, don't. And the 1 setting I don't care anything about, does. *sigh*

 

On my 2017 - you can power fold the mirrors by pressing and holding the key fob un-lock button. And/or you can set it up for all four windows down at once. I have it set for just the windows - for hot days when approaching the locked rig...........

Posted (edited)

 

On my 2017 - you can power fold the mirrors by pressing and holding the key fob un-lock button. And/or you can set it up for all four windows down at once. I have it set for just the windows - for hot days when approaching the locked rig...........

 

Krusty is correct for "automatic folding mirrors". First you need to enable it in the settings menu. Then when you hold the key fob button it will fold your mirrors. So it's not really "automatic" ...

Edited by sk
Posted

 

Me Too - still VERY loud

Prior to this service, the chime hurt my ears and passengers complained or at least commented. It is now no more annoying than my previous trucks or my wife's Toyota. Passenger comments ceased the day this was addressed. I will check with my dealer to see if they did anything special other than what was stated in the "TSB". I know that the chime volume control on the DIC does nothing and am wondering if less informed dealers are using this control thinking this is all that can be done. I doubt this chime issue was present on all years and models so it is a flaw that can be fixed.

Posted

Prior to this service, the chime hurt my ears and passengers complained or at least commented. It is now no more annoying than my previous trucks or my wife's Toyota. Passenger comments ceased the day this was addressed. I will check with my dealer to see if they did anything special other than what was stated in the "TSB". I know that the chime volume control on the DIC does nothing and am wondering if less informed dealers are using this control thinking this is all that can be done. I doubt this chime issue was present on all years and models so it is a flaw that can be fixed.

 

They had to download a new (?) that took 40 minutes +- and it reset everything back to factory settings, even the trans had to relearn, it did lower the volume but - as you said - still loud like my 2011 25 HD was ...

  • 2 years later...
Posted

I know this is an old topic, but I recently ran across this and had trouble with it myself. I have a 2015 Tahoe LT with the HMI 2.5 module that has CarPlay/AndroidAuto.

 

For me, setting chime on the *lowest* value did not work. I had to set it on the “2” in order to get a very low (normal) door chime.
 

Ignition must be in on/accessory to access the Vehicle radio option.  I’ve attached some pics to show how I accessed it and what my current settings are.  Anything lower results in a very loud chime, which kind of goes against how +/- works, but ??‍♂️ 

 

img1

img2

img3

img4

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
    • He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.
    • Yes, you must have seen my thread on the Blazer. HOT GARBAGE, but I love them anyway. I'm convinced every car guy has a soft sport for an S/T series somewheres. Probably even a Panther too, if I'm being an honest car guy. That doesn't mean they aren't junk. And they definitely don't get better with age. I sometimes play with old cars, but that's by choice. I don't rely on them and they aren't my everyday fleet.   Derek plays the common man on Youtube and that's no doubt where he started. Now he has Youtube money (and Motortrend, etc). You think his crews and his wife ride around in old beaters when they're chasing him and his wrecks across the country? No he's got newer and nicer stuff for that, you'll see glimpses of it in the footage.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...