Jump to content

Load assist


Recommended Posts

Posted

Curious to know what others have done to help with rear sagging when hauling a heavy load. I know it's gonna happen but I would prefer it to be level still instead of leaning/sagging in the rear. Are there beefier shocks I can get to help with this or has anyone installed the air bag kit on these trucks? Any help or ideas, as always, is greatly appreciated.

Posted

Shocks don't support loads they control suspension motions.

 

You need something like Timbrens, Sumo Springs or airbags.

Posted

I have made a similar inquiry at my local spring and axle shop. They suggested adding a leaf. They weren't referring to the commercial product "Add a Leaf". They would custom fit an additional leaf giving me added strength for a reasonable cost.

Posted

Airbags, i did the loadlifter 5000

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Were these an easy install? Did you do it yourself or have someone else install?

Posted

Hellwig helper springs. Bolt on with minimal effort

I've thought about going this route too. I'll have to look into these, thanks.

Posted

And to think some people purposely make their truck ride like that unloaded :rollin:

 

Shoot even some unknowingly when they are perfectly level but it looks nose high. It is a truck, leave some rake for the purpose to which it was designed for...

 

Tyler

Posted

I don't like that look either. I'm leveled out right now but thinking of adding a 2" block in the rear.

Posted

I've just added SumoSpings. Seemed like a decent in between between Timbrens and Airbags. But I haven't towed anything since putting them in so I'm not sure how much they help yet.

Posted

Were these an easy install? Did you do it yourself or have someone else install?

They were a breeze. I did the automatic level setup. Installed everything in about 4 hrs. I did the installation

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Posted

Hellwig helper springs. Bolt on with minimal effort

 

I've thought about going this route too. I'll have to look into these, thanks.

 

I don't like that look either. I'm leveled out right now but thinking of adding a 2" block in the rear.

+1 on the Hellwig 987's. I add them to mine after I put on the RC 2.5" Level kit but with 3" blocks to keep the rake. Took about 20 minutes to install, didn't even have to take the rims/tires off.

 

With my 6x12 trailer and the 900lb Harley in the back.

 

b18c44f5f415c4331aa882e92983c5fc.jpg

Posted

 

 

 

+1 on the Hellwig 987's. I add them to mine after I put on the RC 2.5" Level kit but with 3" blocks to keep the rake. Took about 20 minutes to install, didn't even have to take the rims/tires off.

 

With my 6x12 trailer and the 900lb Harley in the back.

b18c44f5f415c4331aa882e92983c5fc.jpg

perfect stance right there!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I see some red flags.   - No mention in the Carfax if the oil pump belt was changed.  LM2s had a 150,000mi service interval, and its got 164,245mi on it.  So right out the gate it needs about $3000-3500 for that to be done before driving it another 150,000mi.  Belt is at the rear of the engine.     - If something happens to the transmission valve body, the special coverage is expired by mileage.  That will likely be an out of pocket expense, with zero or near zero GM participation if something happened even though its in by time.   - 2020 LM2s seem to need timing chains after 80,000mi at some point.  They fixed this end of 2020/starting 2021 model year engines.  They will usually set a P0016 I think?  There is another $8000-10,000 if it needs a chain.  The main chain is at the back, secondary at the front so the pump belt would be done at the same time if it needed chains.     - Long oil change intervals.  7,000-8,000mi on average, probably close to 0% or perhaps to or beyond 0% on the OLM.  Lots of them not at the dealer which makes me wonder how much of the oil ran through that truck was the proper Dexos D rated 0w20 oil and not just gas engine 0w20, which is not the same at all.     - Long fuel filter changes, again likely taking the fuel filter life to 0% or more.  First one went 28,603, second was done 43,094 miles later at 71,697, from there another 46,452mi to 118,149mi, and then the most recent one 37,026mi later at 155,175mi.  So counting its original fuel filter, its had only 4 fuel filters on it.  No bueno IMO.         Good news?    - It has had only two warranty trips to the dealer.  The first free service (end of December 2020 on the Carfax), and the transmission reprogram recall (end of August 2025 on the Carfax).     - Truck did a LOT of moving, so that might explain the lack of emissions related repairs like bad NOX sensors, bad exhaust temp sensors, bad glow plugs, etc.         The "emissions system checked" could just be how something was flagged for Carfax.  GM dealers have to do SAVI reports for warranty repair orders so they scan the truck.  So its possible that is there for that?  
    • Thank you, @Z45!   NOTE - No all repair shop/Dealers reports to Carfax   That is my main concern.  The CARFAX looks way too clean for a 6 year old anything with 164,245 miles.  Even something known for reliability (like many Toyotas) typically has a lot more replaced, like a Nav screen, interior trim, shock/strut, or brake pads.  And surely the last set of tires (installed at ~58k miles) would be bald unless those were all highway miles.   I'm tempted to pay a local dealer to look up the VIN, but am not sure if that will be worthwhile.  Last time I did this, it was 100% useless, and I felt scammed - they noted the bumper was replaced years ago and that's it.  A 5-year old could spot the accident damage, even though nothing was on the CARFAX.   After giving the dealer a call, the truck may have a hard shift, but they have to verify with their mechanic if that's even a concern.  And I've test driven about a dozen of these now, many near Chicago, and half the trucks shift hard/odd at all throttle positions.  The ones with aftermarket lifts/larger tires shift terrible, and 3 stock trucks shifted so violently I thought the transmission valve body was going out.   At this point I'm conflicted, as I need a vehicle, and am coming up short locally.  Northern trucks in this price range tend to have either multiple owners, a lot of mods (lifts/oversized tires without re-gearing), and are generally in rougher shape.   If this truck showed up in your neighborhood for $27k and you had to purchase it sight-unseen, with the possibility of needing a 10L80 rebuild, torque converter, or rear end - would you do it?  I'm convinced most of the 10L80 trucks I test drove are broken, they can't all shift so bad, with massive flares/slipping/lurching and mis-matched downshifts like a teen driver learning stick.
    • From the spy shots, the front end does look like it's borrowing some styling cues from the Canyon. I'm more interested in the powertrain news than the screens though. If the 3.0 diesel survives into the next generation, that alone will keep a lot of current owners interested.  
    • What is this tuner you mentioned that can shut the system off?
    • I had it tested at the hardware store, and it showed no chip. He went out to started the truck today and it wouldnt fire. He waited an hour then tried again, and it started 3 times. In a row. My 2000 cavalier did not have a chip key, but still had a security system.  🤷‍♀️
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...