Jump to content

2017 Silverado 5.3L Cold Air Inductions dyno run


'01LS1

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have 1 on my 2016 5.3 and had 1 on my 08 TBSS and loved it on both vehicles. Not sure what quality issues you had but I have absolutely no complaints. I can't put any hard #s as to how much of an increase it provides but I have seen enough articles to believe it helps plus it looks a 100 times better than the stock setup. Like i stated earlier, some people apparently want 1 hp per dollar they spend and that is just ridiculous!

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
7 hours ago, AZ_SS said:

The truck is still trying to maintain the same AFR. Cooler/denser air means more fuel can be added to maintain the same ratio, which means more power. Yes, to get the most benefit out of almost any mod a tune is required but if you were going to add....lets say headers in a few months, I would wait and tune it once I had finished.

 

There are always a handful of people telling everyone else what is a waste of their money. I know many people feel the factory stereo is more than sufficient, I happen to disagree with that...does that mean I wasted MY money upgrading the stereo. Nope.

Yeah, the factory A/F  ratios are not optimal though, leave a lot on the table. Agree though, basic good C/A, fix the throttle body (just look at the step in it) and a properly sized cat back and there is power there. get it tuned and there is more. 

 

some people have numb butts though and don't notice any mods unless its a super charger. There are many lame designs that don't work, but some do - that's why we compare notes to figure out if a certain product is good or not. just many on here like to tell you how to spend your money, I get tired of that, its your truck.

 

Proven over and over these trucks gain 30~50 rwhp  with just bolt ons. remove the torque management then you can feel it.

 

 totally agree about the waste of money comment. comes off as hate most the time ( I hate that cause I cant afford it, or don't understand how it works). so many ghey accessories for trucks, you can't criticize them all, not enough time in the day. in the end its all preference.

 

interweb truck advice from keyboard jockey's summary: don't buy a cat back, cold air, catch can, or expensive shocks, stereo, a tuner, or "nice" wheels - all a waste of money. NONE of them work.

Posted
On 1/17/2019 at 11:52 PM, kennerz said:

Yeah, the factory A/F  ratios are not optimal though, leave a lot on the table. Agree though, basic good C/A, fix the throttle body (just look at the step in it) and a properly sized cat back and there is power there. get it tuned and there is more. 

 

some people have numb butts though and don't notice any mods unless its a super charger. There are many lame designs that don't work, but some do - that's why we compare notes to figure out if a certain product is good or not. just many on here like to tell you how to spend your money, I get tired of that, its your truck.

 

Proven over and over these trucks gain 30~50 rwhp  with just bolt ons. remove the torque management then you can feel it.

 

 totally agree about the waste of money comment. comes off as hate most the time ( I hate that cause I cant afford it, or don't understand how it works). so many ghey accessories for trucks, you can't criticize them all, not enough time in the day. in the end its all preference.

 

interweb truck advice from keyboard jockey's summary: don't buy a cat back, cold air, catch can, or expensive shocks, stereo, a tuner, or "nice" wheels - all a waste of money. NONE of them work.

Well now if you live in California you don't have to worry about anyone telling you anything negative about your trucks mods because you can't mod anything in that commie state.

Let's all just take a minute to breathe and be thankful that the rest of us can mod the hell out of our truck or not mod it without the government telling us what to do. 

I feel so sorry for those California motorheads. 

Posted
I have 1 on my 2016 5.3 and had 1 on my 08 TBSS and loved it on both vehicles. Not sure what quality issues you had but I have absolutely no complaints. I can't put any hard #s as to how much of an increase it provides but I have seen enough articles to believe it helps plus it looks a 100 times better than the stock setup. Like i stated earlier, some people apparently want 1 hp per dollar they spend and that is just ridiculous!

I just ran across your post. As most people know every vehicle has factory cold intake. What caught my eye with your post was my Trailblazer ss had the induction through the front more like ram air. Can’t imagine aftermarket being better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

The CAI kit took in air from the same location as the stock box but it had a larger opening as well as the larger smooth air duct and high flow filter.

Posted
16 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

I just ran across your post. As most people know every vehicle has factory cold intake. What caught my eye with your post was my Trailblazer ss had the induction through the front more like ram air. Can’t imagine aftermarket being better.

Hard to argue with a dyno but.....unless your foot is flat on the floor and the rpm is high enough to exceed the factory inlets flow AT THE SAME depression....you will never know it is there except for the noise they make. So I agree, hard to beat the factory inlet. 

Posted
Hard to argue with a dyno but.....unless your foot is flat on the floor and the rpm is high enough to exceed the factory inlets flow AT THE SAME depression....you will never know it is there except for the noise they make. So I agree, hard to beat the factory inlet. 

I used to for the noise, same with exhaust. Then at 58, with the exception of the old truck I want quite. Even the old truck is quite comparably speaking.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
10 hours ago, jaxcam02 said:

  Well now if you live in California you don't have to worry about anyone telling you anything negative about your trucks mods because you can't mod anything in that commie state.

Let's all just take a minute to breathe and be thankful that the rest of us can mod the hell out of our truck or not mod it without the government telling us what to do. 

I feel so sorry for those California motorheads. 

California is amazing. By shear numbers there are a lot of car and truck enthusiast here. The Lib-tards that run the state have done an excellent job at killing everything. Almost all Motorsports, guns, small business. Anything normal men enjoy has a tax or restriction on it.

 

And made it a heaven for: Homeless, criminals, illegals, cho-mos, & all types of dopers.  Cal Gov gets a huge chunk of your income any and everyway they can and provide nothing in return (no cops or streets).  The state is currently being run aground.

 

The rules were not THAT bad until the prop 65 madness kicked in recently. Now you can't have hardly any engine mods without becoming a outlaw. They want everyone to take public transportation and ban gasoline automobiles.  If we are lucky we can ride a green bike (literally lime green), or electric scooter.

 

Have to move out of state to get headers. sign an offroad use waiver to tune. no E.O# can't use it. is as stupid as it sounds.

Posted

Everyone is saying the stock intake is a cold air intake, and I'm not sure why. There is no outside air being fed into the fender where the intake draws from. I've looked, the only opening into the fender besides the one for the intake is a cut out by the battery. There is no air source from in front/beside the rad or anywhere around the headlights. Its all closed off. One could argue the air might be a little cooler in there? But regardless the intake is still drawing air from the engine bay.

 

A cold air intake would draw air from underneath the intake box. GM actually use to do this. There was an intake box with a perforated bottom so it could draw air through that plate. you can find that exact metal intake bracket with no bottom on trucks from the 90's. The 19's now draw air from the front of the truck above and just before the rad.

 

 

CAITRUCK-26.jpg

Posted
4 hours ago, M1ck3y said:

Everyone is saying the stock intake is a cold air intake, and I'm not sure why. 

Because the intake air sensor reads about 1-2 degrees warmer than ambient air temperature unless your sitting in stop and go traffic. Can't tell you the exact route the air takes from the fender opening but I can tell you under hood temperatures are allot warmer than a degree over ambient and a CAI wont make it any cooler that the factory unit. I have sensors for both. 

 

Not KARNUT's first Rodeo. 

 

http://dailyderbi.com/cold-air-intakes-dont-work/

 

Funny guys. 

Posted
9 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Because the intake air sensor reads about 1-2 degrees warmer than ambient air temperature unless your sitting in stop and go traffic. Can't tell you the exact route the air takes from the fender opening but I can tell you under hood temperatures are allot warmer than a degree over ambient and a CAI wont make it any cooler that the factory unit. I have sensors for both. 

 

Not KARNUT's first Rodeo. 

 

http://dailyderbi.com/cold-air-intakes-dont-work/

 

Funny guys. 

I'm not arguing with that. Personally I think the intake I have probably provides less performance if idling for too long at a light.

 

But historically a, "cold air intake" means its drawing air from outside the vehicle. People don't think of what temperature sensor's are reading when deciding whether or not it meets that designation.

 

The stock unit does draw air from the engine bay. Many manufactures draw air from outside the vehicle like the new Silverado, or in some applications almost like a ram air intake. You can paint it any way you want it, k2xxx don't have a, "cold air intake".

Posted
12 hours ago, M1ck3y said:

I'm not arguing with that. Personally I think the intake I have probably provides less performance if idling for too long at a light.

 

But historically a, "cold air intake" means its drawing air from outside the vehicle. People don't think of what temperature sensor's are reading when deciding whether or not it meets that designation.

 

The stock unit does draw air from the engine bay. Many manufactures draw air from outside the vehicle like the new Silverado, or in some applications almost like a ram air intake. You can paint it any way you want it, k2xxx don't have a, "cold air intake".

You ever run a thermocouple from under the hood of a K2XX? What to guess who has? 

 

I need it explained to me like I'm five how the IAT (mounted between filter and TB is nearly ambient) but under hood temperatures are significantly higher if the inlet air is in fact being drawn from a much warmer source? 

 

Secondly 'historically' isn't a definition of a cold air intake. Cold air is and the factory unit does a fine job in the department. And aftermarket CAI can provide no colder air. Wait....they draw from the exact same fender hole!! 

Posted

How about a "free-er flowing" hot air intake. I agree that most designs are no better than the factory intake with a "good" (subjective) filter. But there are restrictions in the factory intake and there are a handful of aftermarket designs that perform better- been proven.

 

to say there is no power or efficiency to be gained in any aftermarket design or intake mod is not accurate. trade offs over the oem -sure. Hard to beat the factory filtering effectiveness and low maintenance. but the amount of air that enters that stock box is restrictive. so air the air silencers so is the poorly designed stock throttle body (I'm sure there is a reason for the step, but it causes strange low velocity turbulence and kills response).

 

you would have to monitor AIT's from design to design to prove that a cold air makes no power from all the hot under hood air they access and then show how the ecm pulls timing. I just don't believe you can make a blanket statement and say they all don't work. also to be honest they need the tune to really exploit the increase in flow but still they work in letting it breathe better, not a placebo effect.

 

I have a  carefully pieced together aftermarket intake/filter/modded tb combination and if I take it off and slap the factory stuff back on it feels like a dog.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 489 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...