Jump to content

F-150 Lariat

2024Denali

By 2024Denali
in The Off-Topic Bar

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Knightfall Enthusiast

Knightfall

Posted
Posted

My truck has the shakes. It's not that bad. I drive from where I work (NY) to home to visit family (FL) quite frequently. Has noone on here ridden in anything other than a Cadillac before? My truck was worth the purchase price because I've hit ditches with it (on accident, bad rain storm), and regularly drive on military training area roads with it and it rides and handles the same as when I bought it. Even still has good factory alignment.

 

As far as the tranny goes, it's never stalled from being in too high of a gear or blown the motor from not shifting. So it does a better job than I could with a manual. No complaints.

njk4o5 Enthusiast

njk4o5

Posted
Posted

its like a 50/50 shot you get a truck with a normal acting transmission. when mines been at the dealer for work the rental trucks ive driven some of them shift like ass and some shift mostly normal. all 5.3L 6 speed trucks including mine.

 

I think some people just put up with it more than others. my truck has the shake but not bad enough for me to bring it to the dealer or make a thread about it.

Silver16 Enthusiast

Silver16

Posted
Posted

My truck has the shakes. It's not that bad. I drive from where I work (NY) to home to visit family (FL) quite frequently. Has noone on here ridden in anything other than a Cadillac before? My truck was worth the purchase price because I've hit ditches with it (on accident, bad rain storm), and regularly drive on military training area roads with it and it rides and handles the same as when I bought it. Even still has good factory alignment.

As far as the tranny goes, it's never stalled from being in too high of a gear or blown the motor from not shifting. So it does a better job than I could with a manual. No complaints.

Haven't had this yet on Pendleton range tracks but the GMC and F250SDs were stellar. The ole K5s were used and abused. The HUMMV was a fragile break easy toy. We ended up with F250SDs because they were cheaper to repair. Abused them to death and they still never quit. That's why I bought one. Wore it out and then the GMC and now the Silverado. Trucks are tools meant to be driven hard and put away wet. Ya baby em and polish them they break. Run um hard then get another one.

My truck has the shakes. It's not that bad. I drive from where I work (NY) to home to visit family (FL) quite frequently. Has noone on here ridden in anything other than a Cadillac before? My truck was worth the purchase price because I've hit ditches with it (on accident, bad rain storm), and regularly drive on military training area roads with it and it rides and handles the same as when I bought it. Even still has good factory alignment.

As far as the tranny goes, it's never stalled from being in too high of a gear or blown the motor from not shifting. So it does a better job than I could with a manual. No complaints.

Haven't had this one yet on Pendleton range tracks but the GMC and F250SDs were stellar. The ole K5s were used and abused. The HUMMV was a fragile break easy toy. We ended up with F250SDs because they were cheaper to repair. Abused them to death and they still never quit. That's why I bought one. Wore it out and then the GMC and now the Silverado. Trucks are tools meant to be driven hard and put away wet. Ya baby em and polish them they break. Run um hard then get another one.

Knightfall Enthusiast

Knightfall

Posted
Posted

Haven't had this yet on Pendleton range tracks but the GMC and F250SDs were stellar. The ole K5s were used and abused. The HUMMV was a fragile break easy toy. We ended up with F250SDs because they were cheaper to repair. Abused them to death and they still never quit. That's why I bought one. Wore it out and then the GMC and now the Silverado. Trucks are tools meant to be driven hard and put away wet. Ya baby em and polish them they break. Run um hard then get another one.

 

Haven't had this one yet on Pendleton range tracks but the GMC and F250SDs were stellar. The ole K5s were used and abused. The HUMMV was a fragile break easy toy. We ended up with F250SDs because they were cheaper to repair. Abused them to death and they still never quit. That's why I bought one. Wore it out and then the GMC and now the Silverado. Trucks are tools meant to be driven hard and put away wet. Ya baby em and polish them they break. Run um hard then get another one.

Those CUCV's we're the best. Way before my time though. I hope the Army does decide to do something with the Colorado, like bring them in as CUCV's to replace the softskin Humvees.

BlueCrayon Enthusiast

BlueCrayon

Posted
Posted

Can't beat GM with the sound and performance of the 6.2L.I have beat every truck I've ever raced by quite a bit in most cases....as a matter of fact I don't think there's a faster truck on the market right now except maybe for the brand new Raptor. Plus with a nice catback on the V8, the just sounds mean, not like the little whiny twin turbo. I know looks are subjective, but I just think the Silverado and Sierra look great at any trim level, while the Fords just look boring and plain....the only one I've seen that I sort of liked was a white top of the line platinum that was over 60K.

15 Z71 Senior Enthusiast

15 Z71

Posted
Posted

I bought mine new also,9 miles on it. I did not even take it for a test drive. It's a 2015 DC GMC sle 5.3. Smooth no vibes and shifts fine. I'm at 24,000 now and still look forward to driving it every day.

2024Denali Enthusiast

2024Denali

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm just thinking, this is the first time that I don't think you can go wrong picking either a ford or a silverado/sierra

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2024Denali Enthusiast

2024Denali

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just read a couple threads on an F-150 site, and actually was surprised that there are quite a few people on there that really enjoyed and loved the Sierras/Silverados. Many of the points brought up were the same as on this thread, but it really teaches to just love the truck you've got.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GPGuy Senior Enthusiast

GPGuy

Posted
Posted

I'll stick to the Silverado or Sierra... to me when you get too much technology in your truck that's just more that can go wrong..

SuperSierra Enthusiast

SuperSierra

Posted
Posted

1. Can't put a deer on the roof if there's a sunroof.

2. If you roll it, that sunroof definitely won't hold up like a regular one.

3. Push button start takes exactly the same amount of effort to crank as a normal ignition, plus you gotta put your foot on the brake and then your keys either stab you in the butt cuz they're on your belt loop still or they take up a cupholder. Never saw the point.

4. The Silverado has rear vents. But regardless the only thing that should go back there is beer, ammunition, and a pair of jumper cables.

 

This post is 70% in jest, I'm just making my mark as that guy on the truck forum who doesn't fancy.

I agree with you, the more you have the more that can break.

 

23027f937acfa82c837478a9f7bdacdb.jpg

 

But at least you get these 92fc0a1bc900ed5a7f00ae8ebf70d183.png

2024Denali Enthusiast

2024Denali

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haha technology isnt always more that can break. Typically new technology is introduced to make the cars/trucks better, and most of the time the technology isn't the problem.

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

Haha technology isnt always more that can break. Typically new technology is introduced to make the cars/trucks better, and most of the time the technology isn't the problem.

I agree. Technology has generally improved many of the mechanical components once common in vehicles. Computers often do a much better job than levers, linkages and humans. My gripe about the heavy use of electronic controls is the inflated costs associated with the repair and or replacement of these parts. The same happened during the late 60's / early 70's when plastics were introduced to replace metal. grills, dashboards, trim etc. This was a cost saving for car manufacturers and less easily damaged for the consumer but the cost of replacement was far higher than the metal components they were replacing!

  • 5 weeks later...
Loco-diablo Senior Enthusiast

Loco-diablo

Posted
Posted

Haha technology isnt always more that can break. Typically new technology is introduced to make the cars/trucks better, and most of the time the technology isn't the problem.

Ha ha! I agree. I was never one to believe that new technology is more that can break.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...