Jump to content

Led bulb replacement if fog lights


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok I want better lighting. I'm use to older gmcs that have good lighting and my jeeps that have led lights and bars to light up the dark like it is daylight. So I can do it but have a friend that owns a diesel performance shop and does mods to anything. He is a auxbeam guy now. I want led fogs and led bar in grill or in upper bumper above license plate mount. But he can get led replacement buds for the factory housing/ lense. But will they work good or just replace with aftermarket everything?

Posted

If you click on the link in my signature in this post, you'll see the LED fog lights I have on my truck. I love them and are great quality.

Posted

I would recommend The Retrofit Source LED replacement fog lights. They replace the entire fog light housing. It's plug n play. The light is 3 time the lumen rating and has a controlled flat beam that will not get you in trouble with the law if adjusted properly.

 

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/all-products/gmc-morimoto-xb-led.html?carDisplay=2015+GMC+Sierra&preselect=&preselect_restrict=1

Posted

7835a147e980043d63330109225b06d5.jpgXB led fog light kit from TRS. Picture is stock fog light on passenger side. LED in the driver side

 

 

2015 1500 LT Silverado Midnight Edition

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Somewhere along the way you are going to have to put a little effort in this. Our ESP is not working. Tell us what model your truck is.

Sorry. 2015 gmc sierra denali

Posted

Since you're just talking fog light position, there are a few different basic routes to go.

 

1. bulb replacement. LED, Halogen and HID bulbs are available that have more output. I put some cheap HID kit in a previous truck. Bright as hell. But it took a long time to warm up. So, not good for street/hwy use where you need to shut them off and on.

 

2. DOT compliant replacement fog lights. There is only one brand that I know of that advertises DOT compliant, Rigid Industries. I bought these for my current truck. They have a very sharp cutoff, wide beam, about 1500 lumens each.

 

3. The Retrofit Source direct plug-n-play replacement lights. (shown above). These have a nice wide, flat beam. Not advertised as DOT compliant, but are probably close enough to keep you out of trouble with the law. 1200 lumens each.

 

4. Anything goes off-road lights. 3000-4000 lumens is common for lights that fit in this position. Mounting and wiring are generally all custom, although Rigid has a mounting kit that fits either the DOT compliant or off-road light.

Posted

Do not just use a replacement led bulb. The output sucks!!! Get some rigid sae fogs or morimoto Xb leds.

 

I had some opt7 bulbs in there and now have the rigid sae fogs. They're awesome!!

Posted

Another vote for the Retrofit Source Morimoto XB LED fog lights.

Combine them with their Sierra Spec Morimoto HID kit complete night and day difference to stock lighting.

Posted

Morimoto xb fogs are great, I'm really happy with the output.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Posted

Ok I want better lighting. I'm use to older gmcs that have good lighting and my jeeps that have led lights and bars to light up the dark like it is daylight. So I can do it but have a friend that owns a diesel performance shop and does mods to anything. He is a auxbeam guy now. I want led fogs and led bar in grill or in upper bumper above license plate mount. But he can get led replacement buds for the factory housing/ lense. But will they work good or just replace with aftermarket everything?

Partsam 5000 lumen Cree LED bulbs549fe049b003286068bc609686f31164.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk

Posted

The led bulbs look good, but take a pic of the output against a wall and from the drivers seat in a car facing the truck. Probably a ton of glare. Light pointing up in directions where it can't be used.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/196200-who-r-using-these-rigid-industries-50481-d-series/page-4

 

I had some pics up, but this whole PB thing won't let anyone see them.

Posted

Ok I want better lighting. I'm use to older gmcs that have good lighting and my jeeps that have led lights and bars to light up the dark like it is daylight. So I can do it but have a friend that owns a diesel performance shop and does mods to anything. He is a auxbeam guy now. I want led fogs and led bar in grill or in upper bumper above license plate mount. But he can get led replacement buds for the factory housing/ lense. But will they work good or just replace with aftermarket everything?

I'm with cbrsilv on this, get some rigid SAE fog lights they are crazy bright! and if you want that little bit of extra you can go the route I went and do both a rigid SAE fog and rigid spot on each side! 0deac50f5cfc31ad482e94cfb7171e18.jpgba12f8617e1443e19b60467f9a8b5e1a.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Blazer is all put back together. Another hard-won battle. The 4.3 is not easy to work on in such an archaic and narrow chassis originally designed for an inline 4.   My baffle issue is solved. I returned to the OG junkyard but was ready for a fight. The Blazer I had picked from was stacked on another vehicle so I had no idea how the heck I was going to get myself to working height to pull the front end apart. I had seen an S10 pickup on the ground so I was hoping the part would be the same, AND, I couldn't remember if the S10 still had a front end or not. But I didn't need to worry because it turned out to be my lucky day. The yard had just taken in a '98 Blazer, sitting right up front, on the ground, with room to work around it, and the front end hadn't been hit. The baffle and all the clips were factory perfect. I also scored another good handful of odds/ends and the whole shebang only cost me $20.   Got everything back together and it fired right off, sounds good, runs good. I've got a little coolant drip from a lower water pump bolt (D'OH!!). I did the right thing and snugged it down a little bit, and of course that didn't fix it. Yet again, I will have to soak everything in coolant to drain it down to the water pump, remove the bolt, and attempt to re-seal it. Nothing is easy on this truck. Nothing. But now all the radiator plastics are correct, snug, and fully functional. No more rubbing on the cooling fan. It runs, drives (took it for a 30 mile drive last night), no Check Engine lights, EGR is working, no vacuum leaks. We're getting closer...   The replacement wiper motor arrived yesterday. The tailgate was already disassembled and waiting, so I threw that in. It works! Sort of. Two new issues on the list. While the motor is strong enough and the gears aren't stripped, the wiper is hanging up on the bottom of the rear glass. This is the old style where the lower half folds down like a truck tailgate, and the glass swings up, and they meet in the middle when closed. The glass isn't sitting flush with the tailgate, now that I look at it. No rubber bumpers that I can see for adjusting, so I'll have to look at the hinge adjustment to see if I can correct it. Also, the washer/squirter just dumps fluid underneath the truck. The lines actually run inside on the floor so I'm guessing the tailgate is soaked at the rear trim and the line is disconnected. There's also a drain there....probably for this reason.   The leaky water pump bolt was really disappointing. JUST STOP LEAKING...OMG!!   Replacing the window motor and a rear door speaker are still to do, and then everything will work. I want this to feel like a "good" vehicle worthy of dropping $600 for new tires before I do. That means no leaking first. I hurt, and I'm kind of cranky, so I'll probably take a day of rest and do the water pump again tomorrow.
    • Just saw on Jay Leno the new Scout. That’s the way it should be done.
    • EV's have their nuances too. Best to operate the current type of lithium batteries between 20-80% charge. No real need to charge until you hit around 20%. Occasionally charge to 100% when needed. Longer term storage, battery should be 50-60%. At least those are the guidelines for our iX. We've been exceptionally good to the battery in that car...easy to do when you can charge at home like we can.   EV's lack so many of the rituals and so much of the visceral feeling ICE vehicles provide, which is why I think they're hard to accept for a lot of gearheads. They're fun in different ways, though.
    • We have got a lot of rain lately, we needed it. Storms/lightning took out a floor fan. Dirt roads badly rutted from run off.   Power here is sketchy, whole house surge protector in the service panel and all electronics plugged into surge protectors. My biggest concern is my stereo, I've been an audio nut for years. $25 k in equipment. Stereo is on it's own special surge protector.
    • Happy Birthday!  I also turned 72 this year.  In some groups I consider myself to be a young senior and in others I realize I have serious years behind me!  In June I spent a week in the hospital due to a blood clot following knee replacement surgery.  The hospital Doctor assigned to my care specialized in Geriatric medicine!  He is a great Doctor but the fact I required this type of specialized care  made me feel old!  Aging comes with new challenges but I sure appreciate getting older!  It most definitely beats the alternative!!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...