Jump to content

Light Mounting option for 17/18 Sierra?


moab11

Recommended Posts

Posted

When the available real estate to mount lights is limited, it becomes more important to install lights not only powerful, but with beams tuned for your needs.  “Super bright” may not mean they project down the road far enough for high speed driving. Some lights may flood the foreground but not illuminate much at 300 yards.  The smallest light with incredibly effective beams I’ve stumbled across is the Baja Designs  S2 Pro. https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/S2-Pro.asp   They are only 2400 lumens, but they put all the light to use.  They can be configured with wide or long range beams and colors.  I have 4 on my truck, 2 long range, and 2 wide flat beams. When I’m traveling the lonely highways, they light not only a wide swath to see if a deer is along the road, but also light the road a long way, which allows safer high speeds at night.

 

The Baja Designs website has some information on how to setup an effective light system  for your needs.  https://www.bajadesigns.com/Science-of-Lighting/Lighting-Zones.asp

https://www.bajadesigns.com/Science-of-Lighting/Isolux-Plots.asp

 

small enough?

 

4CA434F8-B9D2-49D7-8E0B-D93F0A4E5C29.jpeg

DSC_7679_zpsd5041186.jpg

DSC_7808 (Large).JPG

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
On 10/21/2017 at 6:08 PM, pdosescu said:

I just ordered it on amazon. The brand was autofeel or something like that. I wasn’t anything special but it was thin so I got it. I’m looking at getting a ADD or FabFours bumper and then I’ll get a Rigid


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you mind pulling up your Amazon account and referring us to the exact one you got? I'm very interested in this looks awesome on your truck.. don't want a bull bar since it will mess with my parking sensors 

Posted

It’s an
Autofeel triple row 16” led light
216W , 21600LM
It’s sold by Autofeel. It doesn’t seem to be available now but I’ve seen it come and go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Well it can be done just a PIA also really not a great way to mount. this light bar measured 1.75" and is up against the motor for the shutters 

IMG_4559.JPG

Posted

Just installed the 30” light bar kit from Rough Country, my truck has/had “Active grill Shutters”. Yes you have to remove them. Had a buddy of mine who works at Chevy help me out, removed the motor from the shutters, and removed the shutters from the truck. Then mounted bar with the given brackets and ect from RC. Plugged everything back in, haven’t gotten a light yet. Will keep you guys updated. 

Posted
41 minutes ago, Josh Simon said:

Just installed the 30” light bar kit from Rough Country, my truck has/had “Active grill Shutters”. Yes you have to remove them. Had a buddy of mine who works at Chevy help me out, removed the motor from the shutters, and removed the shutters from the truck. Then mounted bar with the given brackets and ect from RC. Plugged everything back in, haven’t gotten a light yet. Will keep you guys updated. 

Did you leave the shutter motor plugged into the truck? Interested to see how you make out, I have read of others trying the same thing, but having trouble with CEL coming on.

Posted
8 hours ago, Tleesmith14 said:

Well it can be done just a PIA also really not a great way to mount. this light bar measured 1.75" and is up against the motor for the shutters

Looks Great!!!

Any pictures of how you mounted the light bar? What light bar did you use?

Posted
1 hour ago, moab11 said:

Did you leave the shutter motor plugged into the truck? Interested to see how you make out, I have read of others trying the same thing, but having trouble with CEL coming on.

Yes, I literally took the harness out of the shutter assembly and plugged it back in. Zip tied it in a “safe” location. Had a light at first, cleared it and haven’t gotten anything again yet. Most of these vehicles have a memory up to 20 minutes after ANY BCM movement. Even if you open the door. Which it recognized that it was unplugged so I had to clear the code 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Better Video from the dash cam tonight.
 
 



Been thinking about getting the RC Bar as well, have you had any issues with the parking sensors? If so how did you fix it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 1 month later...
Posted
$165 for a bracket and two 3" pods?
 
 
21v5cq.jpg.5b071bcb7227124fa8fc6bf172e6a54b.jpg

Definitely pricey for some metal with holes in it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
$165 for a bracket and two 3" pods?
 
 
21v5cq.jpg.5b071bcb7227124fa8fc6bf172e6a54b.jpg


I have been watching the Zroadz brackets for a while hoping someone will come out with a similar bracket to their hood hinge brackets. I suspect their astronomical cost on brackets is because they are the one of the only ones at the “party” per se when it comes to some of these unique mounting options.

That’s an expensive piece of bent metal...



Posted


I have been watching the Zroadz brackets for a while hoping someone will come out with a similar bracket to their hood hinge brackets. I suspect their astronomical cost on brackets is because they are the one of the only ones at the “party” per se when it comes to some of these unique mounting options.

That’s an expensive piece of bent metal...




Hood hinge? the A- pillar brackets for spot lights?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...