Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

After 8 moths of back and forth with GM and my dealership I'm throwing in the towel.  My Local dealer has been great and done all they can to help, but GM is useless.  They sent a field Engineer out with my Chuggle and fish Bite issue.  They agree it is there but it is minimal and the Official Verdict is that the truck is designed to run this way.  The dealership tried to argue with me to the tech and his only reply was he has seen worse.  My tech told him last couple times we drove it was worse when we took it out the past few times, and re-flash has not worked. the Patch they came out with has not worked.  So I have to drive a truck that is designed to drive like crap.  My Solution, the Black Bear Tuner is on its way to my house.  I am positive it is a tuning issue.  GM is in my Blood but this pisses me off to no end.  I shouldn't have to buy the tuner to correct a factory issue under warranty.  The dealer is going to try and help me and reimburse my money for the tuner if he can get it approved, but he also wants me to come back and let him know if this solves the issue to shove it in the Engineers faces at his next Tech Meeting.  Had to rant a bit, but cant stand when a company wont stand behind their product, and give bullsh*t answers.

  • Like 1
Posted

it is a stuttering problem in the new trucks. GM knows it is there, put out a patch for it and they claim it fixed 85% of the trucks.  it happens constantly on my from 50-60 under steady cruise to light acceleration.  Local tech and i duplicated it every time.  Field service engineer said it wasn't worth it to fix .  Considered it normal operation.

Posted

Is it due to AFM? running at that speed with light throttle would probably send you to v4 mode.

Does the truck do the same thing at that speed if you shift into M?

Posted

No. it does it locked in V8 mode.  Tech and i drove for an hour playing with all the functions. Bottom line, in V8 mode, torque Converter locked it feels like a fish biting on the line as you steady cruise or very light acceleration. comes down to Tune issue.  not enough fuel. when I install the programmer we should be able to confirm it if it smooths out.  I have been working with the dealer and the Tech for quite some time.  I'm pretty competent with cars and the dealer knows my background. we have spent a lot of time trying to narrow this down, then the engineer says its normal...not too happy with them 

Posted

When GM doesn't understand the problem or know how to fix it, they say its "normal". I'm half joking, but you are not the first person to post a similar experience on here.

 

Good luck, I hope the tuner makes your truck more enjoyable to drive.

  • Like 1
Posted

i know, i am one of 6 at this dealership with the same issue. almost 50K for a truck that drives like crap, sucks

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I drive a 17 owned by the company I work for and have noticed the same thing 

 

it's very irritating 

no wonder GM had to get bailed out by the fedgov 

I have not taken it in for repairs because I know GM is too stupid to be able to fix it 

     I figured it was something to do with the CAFE ratings , it's really irritating that this stupid truck will up shift into 6th gear doing 35 mph uphill 

so that when go up the next slight hill in a residential neighborhood mashing the gas pedal does nothing to increase power until you totally floor it causing it to slam down into 3rd and take off like a rocket , there is no way to accelerate in between these two modes unless you drive it in the Manual  mode and shift it your self 

   Using the trailer tow mode helps but the "grade braking " slamming down gears every time you ease off the gas pedal is irritating too 

    Lexus had rev matching downshifts about ten years ago and GM can't do it ??

 

it's also hard to believe that they sell a vehicle without power mirrors 

and if you don't buy the option package with the  remote control to lock and unlock the doors GM has purposely written the software so it can never be added later 

 

 

The previous company i worked for had crewmax tundras and wow, that's the truck to have . Plenty of power and a very intuitive transmission , rides a hell of a lot better too 

 

Edited by roundhouse
  • Confused 1
Posted
4 minutes ago, roundhouse said:

 

 

 

The previous company i worked for had crewmax tundras and wow, that's the truck to have . Plenty of power and a very intuitive transmission , rides a hell of a lot better too 

 

Tundras are the truck to have if you like 12MPG, bloated styling, a frame as rigid as a wet noodle, and a cheap interior with outdated infotainment systems. Real upgrade, I'd say..

  • Like 2
  • Confused 1
Posted (edited)
39 minutes ago, 2017SierraSLT said:

Tundras are the truck to have if you like 12MPG, bloated styling, a frame as rigid as a wet noodle, and a cheap interior with outdated infotainment systems. Real upgrade, I'd say..

The infotainment doesn't interest me at all and I liked that the tundra I drove didn't have one at  all

. The GM one is irritating since there is apparently no way to dim it at night , so when I drive five hours in the dark I have a tv screen shining in my face the entire time 

   I dont watch videos or text while I'm driving so the tv screen in the dash is not important to me at all 

butnondon sometimes wonder how much apply paid GM to write the software so that google maps will not appear on the tv screen in the dash , only apply maps will appear 

 

 

 

the Tundra I drove  got 16in town and 19 on the road , the Chevy gets 13 in town and 15 on the road and rides worse than some of my 18 wheelers did 

. Apparently the flexy frame soaks up a lot of bumps 

   I'm considering removing a couple of leafs from the rear of the Chevy to soften the ride and eliminate the stupid looking of the back end sitting 8" higher than the front 

 

no no chuggle problem with the Yota though 

Edited by roundhouse
Posted

There is something very wrong with your truck if it only gets 13/15. I consistently get 16.5 city and 23 highway with my 5.3 and a lead foot.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
27 minutes ago, 2017SierraSLT said:

There is something very wrong with your truck if it only gets 13/15. I consistently get 16.5 city and 23 highway with my 5.3 and a lead foot.

The one I drive is a crew cab 4wd 3/4 ton with a 6.0 

 

 

Edit worse than I thought 

:.  Just walked out and checked 

 Monday I drove from Atlanta to Jacksonville and back yesterday 

cruise set on 75 , interstate the entire trip 

computer says 14.7 for the trip 

Edited by roundhouse
Posted

Well, that makes far more sense. The Vortec 6.0, although known for durability and endurance, is not known for outstanding fuel economy.

 

Also, it is not a fair comparasion to compare a half ton Toyota to a three quarter ton GM in regards to ride and economy. All three quarter tons ride harshly when empty, but the tradeoff is a lot more load capacity. They also weigh a lot more than a half ton, thus affecting fuel economy numbers.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Crobinson16 said:

Have any of you had the tsb done. 17-NA-070

i have had every TSB and update available.  Noting from factory has helped, but i solved the issue myself, with help from Black Bear Performance!!! i sent them my read file and told them the issues im having, they sent me the tune last night ant this is the first day with the truck after 20k miles it didnt lug and chug at ALL!  I will be going to my dealer to show them the results to just shake it in the engineers face.  What good is a warranty if they wont do anything about it anyway!

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...