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09 2500HD - HELP Can't get 4wd Engaged Grind Neutral

frased

By frased
in 2000-2014 Silverado HD & Sierra HD

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frased Enthusiast

frased

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17 hours ago, davester said:

The full-service manual for my truck doesn't specify what to use for the transfer case (as it only has repair procedures for stuff you can do without splitting the case), and I didn't get a repair manual for the TC when I rebuilt mine, but I used this sealant, which seems to match what GM specified for the flange on the front diff:

 

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/permatex-high-temperature-anaerobic-flange-sealant/

 

Still seems happy after a year.

Got lucky the dealer had the ACDelco anaerobic in stock.  Geez that stuff is expensive!  But worth it I definitely don't want to pull the case back out for a leak!  

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frased Enthusiast

frased

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Update:

 

The re-learn process worked on the encoder motor.

 

Tested my rebuilt transfer case today for the first time it works flawlessly in all modes! Felt like I won the lottery when it shifted into four-wheel-drive for the first time. 

 

Thanks everyone for your great help I very much appreciate it! 

  • 2 weeks later...
Scotch740 Enthusiast

Scotch740

Posted
Posted

Glad I was able to find this thread. I think I have the same or very similar issue on my 2007.5 2500HD.

 

What other upgraded parts did you use from that article, besides the shaft/cam?


I plan to get that shaft and cam should that be my problem, plus the rear output seal. But what about the pads, new shift motor, front seal/shield? 

 

This is my tow rig and road trip truck so I need it to be as reliable as possible. 

For informational purposes, truck has about 110k miles and sees maybe 10k miles a year, half of which is towing. 

 

Thank you for documenting your issues and the fix, and thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. 

frased Enthusiast

frased

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1 hour ago, Scotch740 said:

Glad I was able to find this thread. I think I have the same or very similar issue on my 2007.5 2500HD.

 

What other upgraded parts did you use from that article, besides the shaft/cam?


I plan to get that shaft and cam should that be my problem, plus the rear output seal. But what about the pads, new shift motor, front seal/shield? 

 

This is my tow rig and road trip truck so I need it to be as reliable as possible. 

For informational purposes, truck has about 110k miles and sees maybe 10k miles a year, half of which is towing. 

 

Thank you for documenting your issues and the fix, and thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. 

No problem man! Shaft, cam, and I bought a new retaining ring (instead of reusing the original. $8 part). The new design is a forever fix. My seals were all good! I didn’t damage them either. If your careful they will be fine. Subscribe to alldata! 

Scotch740 Enthusiast

Scotch740

Posted
Posted

Called the dealer to check lead time and cost of parts locally and he had some updated part numbers from the time of that 2011 article.

 

Front input seal - 19299083

Shift Shaft - 19210805 (unchanged from the article)

Cam - 19259607

 

Total parts I priced out from them was just under $240, not including RTV or trans fluid.

 

Speaking of transmission fluid, Since these are a "wet" seal transmission/transfer case seal does that mean all the trans fluid is going to come pouring out?

 

 

 

frased Enthusiast

frased

Posted
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2 hours ago, Scotch740 said:

Called the dealer to check lead time and cost of parts locally and he had some updated part numbers from the time of that 2011 article.

 

Front input seal - 19299083

Shift Shaft - 19210805 (unchanged from the article)

Cam - 19259607

 

Total parts I priced out from them was just under $240, not including RTV or trans fluid.

 

Speaking of transmission fluid, Since these are a "wet" seal transmission/transfer case seal does that mean all the trans fluid is going to come pouring out?

 

 

 

I used the part numbers from the article. The dealer started saying something but I said those are the parts. And made him order them lol 

 

My parts were $147 and the clip was about $8 extra. 

 

I cant find the part number. Found it on an exploded view parts diagram off a GM parts site. But ordered locally. 

Scotch740 Enthusiast

Scotch740

Posted
Posted

Hummm, trusting them to get me the most up to date parts.... might be a mistake... tbd...

 

Cost included new seals at 23 a pop and 6 new shift pads at $3 and $7 a peace. 

 

Any advice on the wet vs dry seal? Is all my tranny fluid going to pour out the back of the allison? 

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

Some might come out, but not lots (similar to the amount that would come out from a 2wd allison pulling out the driveshaft.

 

And the void between the transmission and transfer case should be dry, even though there is a gasket there (which is stupid, but it just takes longer for people to notice the leak, possibly compromising the seal for the other unit)...

Scotch740 Enthusiast

Scotch740

Posted
Posted

I disassembled the transfer case and found the snap ring referenced in the article was the problem. The snap ring was still around the shaft and was not loose in the case, so there would be low risk of driving it in 2wd if I had to.

 

During disassembly of the old shift shaft/range fork/spring assembly, you have to remove the pin (#19 in the attached diagram). There is suppose to be a screw on the back side of that pin, according to AllDataDIY. I could not see a screw of any type. I ended up having to drill that pin out and found no evidence of screw threads. My recommendation would be to order this pin unless you already have it disassembled and know its in good condition. 

 

The minimum parts I would recommend ordering are:

Shaft 19210805

Cam 19259607

Pin 19133202

Snap Ring 19133027

Gasket 24245110 (Transfer case to transmission gasket)

2 quarts Dexron VI

RTV

 

In addition I also ordered:

4wd fork "inserts" (qty 3) 19133044

Shift shaft seal 19133044 (I damaged mine, you should not need to replace this)

Input shaft seal 19299083

Rear output shaft seal ACDELCO 24226707

NQF Transfer Case.JPG

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

There's also the 'pump rub fix' you might want to install.  google it for more information, the cheap fix is to install a pressed-metal plate over the oil pump to prevent it from rubbing through the case...

  • 2 weeks later...
Scotch740 Enthusiast

Scotch740

Posted
Posted

Update: I got the case back together and then put back in the truck the night before leaving for a wheeling trip. All went well once I had all the parts  I needed. Thanks for everyone who contributed to this thread. Couple final comments from my experience.

 

The new Cam I got appears to be identical to the one I took out. I test fit both and cycled them with the case open and couldn't see a difference. I used the new one since I had it. 

 

Attached is a photo of the pin/screw that messed me up, and a view of the original end of the pin in my case that I had to drill out. For reference its #19 in the above diagram.

 

I don't believe pump rub is an issue on the 2007.5+ years. I inspected that area on mine and saw no detrimental wear.

 

It is recommended to replace the O ring on the pump, #37 in the diagram above. I did not have one so I didn't. Mine had some minor damage to it but looked like it would still sufficiently seal. 

 

AlldataDIY was helpful. I could have done it without it but it gave me a lot of reassurance, It was worth the $20 or $30 I spent for a year subscription.

20180123_184407.jpg

20180119_173602.jpg

20180123_201103.jpg

frased Enthusiast

frased

Posted
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31 minutes ago, Scotch740 said:

Update: I got the case back together and then put back in the truck the night before leaving for a wheeling trip. All went well once I had all the parts  I needed. Thanks for everyone who contributed to this thread. Couple final comments from my experience.

 

The new Cam I got appears to be identical to the one I took out. I test fit both and cycled them with the case open and couldn't see a difference. I used the new one since I had it. 

 

Attached is a photo of the pin/screw that messed me up, and a view of the original end of the pin in my case that I had to drill out. For reference its #19 in the above diagram.

 

I don't believe pump rub is an issue on the 2007.5+ years. I inspected that area on mine and saw no detrimental wear.

 

It is recommended to replace the O ring on the pump, #37 in the diagram above. I did not have one so I didn't. Mine had some minor damage to it but looked like it would still sufficiently seal. 

 

AlldataDIY was helpful. I could have done it without it but it gave me a lot of reassurance, It was worth the $20 or $30 I spent for a year subscription.

20180123_184407.jpg

20180119_173602.jpg

20180123_201103.jpg

Nice man! Glad it all worked out! I agree on pump rub wasn’t applicable. I didn’t replace the O ring either. 

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

Yeah, '07.5 and newer don't have the pump rub issue (I believe the case is made of a different material)

 

Did alldatadiy have info on rebuilding the transfer case?  I might have to subscribe to it instead of buying the full-service manual if I switch trucks...GM's manual treats the 4l80e and transfer cases largely as black boxes, only has stuff you can fix without really cracking them open (a bit more for the transmission, but not a lot)....

Scotch740 Enthusiast

Scotch740

Posted
Posted
19 hours ago, davester said:

Yeah, '07.5 and newer don't have the pump rub issue (I believe the case is made of a different material)

 

Did alldatadiy have info on rebuilding the transfer case?  I might have to subscribe to it instead of buying the full-service manual if I switch trucks...GM's manual treats the 4l80e and transfer cases largely as black boxes, only has stuff you can fix without really cracking them open (a bit more for the transmission, but not a lot)....

All data had good diagrams and short but good tips for rebuilding the transfer case.

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