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Engine Flush?!?


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Posted
On ‎3‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 1:03 AM, Colossus said:

I'm partial to the BG products, they have been around a long time and have a good standing in the automotive industry. 

 

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engine/bg-engine-purge/

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engine/bg-epr-engine-performance-restoration/

 

For the top end, GM Engine cleaner is actually pretty good stuff too,

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-88861803-Engine-Injector-Cleaner/dp/B00BK7LR36

 

 

+1 Yup, BG only way to do it

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Posted
4 hours ago, Black02Silverado said:

"Petroleum distillates"  general term of course.  Know anyone that would pour a qt of diesel fuel or kerosene into their transmission to do a clean cycle?  I never have but I'm sure it would be fine as well, I guess?  Just like engine oils, it is the additives that make a product different.

Transmission? You mean automatics right? Personally I started using Group IV/V blended lubricants about 25 years ago and never had a need. Come to think of it. I've used an automatic transmission flush once period. Even when I used Dino Juice. 50 years driving. If you cook the fluid hard enough for deposits of varnish you cooked the box. That I have done. A flush won't do anything but lighten your wallet. I've done that too. Once. Dad fell out of his chair laughing at his stupid son. Change it often enough and you don't have a problem that isn't purely mechanical which again, a flush wont' help. 

 

Yep additives make a product different. That is a fact. What isn't is factual is that it makes it better. Every one claims to be different via some proprietary secret unobtainium additive package and everyone claims 'better'. The very nature of that word 'better' suggest relative to some standard. No one says what that standard is. If perfection would have ever been found it would today be standing alone on a shelf. But claims are only that. 

 

There are three basic steps to modern marketing. 

 

1.) Create FEAR (or false hope)

2.) Claim a CURE. (only a possibility)

3.) Reap a fortune. (A certainty...think RED BULL) 

 

Snake oil is as old as the snake. I don't believe in Elfin Magic or snakes. I believe in physics, chemistry and God. Fat cut fats, water cuts water, alcohol cuts alcohol and hydrocarbon cuts hydrocarbon. A lighter bodied solvent is enough detergency 99 times out of 100 and heat and agitation are enough dispersant always. What is past that is wishful thinking. IMO. The one time where a detergent is effective is when you're trying to cut something with an unlike solvent. Like removing grease from your hands with water. Did you known Crisco works as well as Go-Jo!? D'oh! 

Posted
On 3/10/2018 at 8:44 PM, TEWNCfarms said:
What’s the best engine flush? I only can find motor medic locally which says you Have to drop oil pan after. I heard liqui moly Flush is good? Do u need to drop own with that too?
 
 

I personally like the JB flush. I use it on mine twice a year. I have a 2010 Buick Enclave and when I had to replace the timing chains (normal job for this engine) it was clean as a whistle. I was very impressed and I didn't start using the JB clean until the vehicle had almost 90k miles. It has 151k now and still runs great. It is a product we sell at the dealership and I was impressed with the demonstration they came in and gave which is why I started using it.

 

http://amzn.to/2HDEcVl

 

Here is some of their product being used.

 

Posted

This is what oil sludge looks like. I don't think most people see this much anymore. It's caused by bad maintenance.

 

 

5.jpg

Posted
This is what oil sludge looks like. I don't think most people see this much anymore. It's caused by bad maintenance.
 
 
5.jpg.636bf92e0bbc6da6abb14a0a7d3d0fea.jpg
Some engines are more prone to sludge than others, VW comes to mind...good maintenance can still result in problems in some engines.

Steve
2012 2500hd

Posted
21 minutes ago, sdeeter19555 said:

Some engines are more prone to sludge than others, VW comes to mind...good maintenance can still result in problems in some engines.

Steve
2012 2500hd
 

If you're talking about the old air cooled flat fours, maybe so.

Overall, if you check and change your oil regularly you won't get this.

Posted
If you're talking about the old air cooled flat fours, maybe so.
Overall, if you check and change your oil regularly you won't get this.
No, I'm speaking to more current offerings with good maintenance.

My coworker is a Audi gearhead, his son had to have a newer VW and it was sludged up...it had all the maintenance records, routine changes and good oil. It had a leaking valve cover, and he pulled the cover and scooped out sludge.

So it can happen in a modern vehicle with good maintenance, if the engine is susceptible to that.

Steve
2012 2500hd

Posted

I've owned several VWs, and the ones that have the coking problems are the turbocharged engines. That will typically happen if a petroleum oil is used. After owning 4 turbocharged VWs, and never using anything except premium synthetic oils in them, I've never had a problem with them. My "other" car is a VW diesel, and it is clearly the most reliable automobile I've ever owned.

My last 3 Chevy trucks have been great trucks, but I tend to put more hard work, even with less miles, on them that I would ever put on a car. I use nothing but premium synthetic oil in my trucks, too.

Posted

This is just interesting. Look back through 1940-50-60 GM owners manuals. 20 weight was the preferred oil between 90 F and 0 F. At 0 F and to -10 F 10W and below that; 10W plus 10% Kerosene. It had to be steady over 90 F to use 30. Some of those motors didn't have pressurized systems. Oil change intervals? 2,500-3,000 except during break in, harsh weather, extreme loading, high sulfur gasoline or unusually dusty conditions. So 1,000-1,500 for most.  Kerosene will hurt nothing used wisely. 

Posted
On 3/15/2018 at 6:15 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

Transmission? You mean automatics right? Personally I started using Group IV/V blended lubricants about 25 years ago and never had a need. Come to think of it. I've used an automatic transmission flush once period. Even when I used Dino Juice. 50 years driving. If you cook the fluid hard enough for deposits of varnish you cooked the box. That I have done. A flush won't do anything but lighten your wallet. I've done that too. Once. Dad fell out of his chair laughing at his stupid son. Change it often enough and you don't have a problem that isn't purely mechanical which again, a flush wont' help. 

 

Yep additives make a product different. That is a fact. What isn't is factual is that it makes it better. Every one claims to be different via some proprietary secret unobtainium additive package and everyone claims 'better'. The very nature of that word 'better' suggest relative to some standard. No one says what that standard is. If perfection would have ever been found it would today be standing alone on a shelf. But claims are only that. 

 

There are three basic steps to modern marketing. 

 

1.) Create FEAR (or false hope)

2.) Claim a CURE. (only a possibility)

3.) Reap a fortune. (A certainty...think RED BULL) 

 

Snake oil is as old as the snake. I don't believe in Elfin Magic or snakes. I believe in physics, chemistry and God. Fat cut fats, water cuts water, alcohol cuts alcohol and hydrocarbon cuts hydrocarbon. A lighter bodied solvent is enough detergency 99 times out of 100 and heat and agitation are enough dispersant always. What is past that is wishful thinking. IMO. The one time where a detergent is effective is when you're trying to cut something with an unlike solvent. Like removing grease from your hands with water. Did you known Crisco works as well as Go-Jo!? D'oh! 

this was a Great Read! you're one fart smeller, I mean smart feller! For real, you opened my eyes to some simple truths on this, thanks!

Posted
29 minutes ago, TEWNCfarms said:

Fat cut fats, water cuts water, alcohol cuts alcohol and hydrocarbon cuts hydrocarbon. A lighter bodied solvent is enough detergency 99 times out of 100 and heat and agitation are enough dispersant always.

:thumbs:

 

Also for consideration, a quart of kerosene will cost about a dollar. These other "products" run 5-10 dollars for 8 oz.

Posted
6 hours ago, TEWNCfarms said:

this was a Great Read! you're one fart smeller, I mean smart feller! For real, you opened my eyes to some simple truths on this, thanks!

You are most welcome. Most 'truth' is simple. Lies are complicated. :lol: 

Posted

My last and final comment on this subject is that if kerosene was acceptable, why is it not used by the manufacturers (i.e., dealers) yet today?

I know some of us backyards still consider this acceptable, but I have not heard of any dealer doing this (and I worked for a Buick, Pontiac, GMC, Jeep, Eagle, Subaru dealer once upon a time...). Even back then they had manufacturer-specific dedicated engine flush products...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted

I think the answer to that is easy, they don’t package it to make money off of it in cans. I can picture a service tec going to a drum out side pumping out a qt and going back inside. Not going to happen.


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