Jump to content

Wheel offset question 0 vs +18


Ozer

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looking to get 20x9 wheels for my 2014 sierra SLT crew.

I have the chrome snowflake style wheels, i think they are +24??

Tires are 275/50/20 and i have bilstein 5100 with front at max height.

 

My question is ... will 0 stick out some or should i go with +18.

Im ok with the tires sticking out a bit but not looking for 2 inches of poke.

 

Wheels im looking at are these

http://www.customwheelsexpress.com/custom-wheels-by-brand-helo-helo-he900-machined-black-custom-wheels-rims-p-3274.html?offset_max=18&offset_min=0&bolt_pattern=6x139.7&width_max='10'&width_min='9'&diameter=20

Posted

I got my wheels and tires from www.rimzoneonline.com. I called and talked to them before placing the order and they were super helpful. They answered every question i had about offset and tire size that would work on my truck with the lift I had. I suggest calling them and talking to them about yours.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, catpartsman said:

I got my wheels and tires from www.rimzoneonline.com. I called and talked to them before placing the order and they were super helpful. They answered every question i had about offset and tire size that would work on my truck with the lift I had. I suggest calling them and talking to them about yours.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

0 will stick out about 1/2" (my +0 pro comps did) +18 will be pretty flush with the fender.

Posted
12 minutes ago, FHLH said:

0 will stick out about 1/2" (my +0 pro comps did) +18 will be pretty flush with the fender.

And thats just the edge of the wheel right, on top of that the tire poke so it may be about an inch sticking out, tires sidewall compared to the fender edge.

Posted

I have +18 on my truck. You can see how they look with a level and lift. 

 

 

Posted
18 minutes ago, Ozer said:

And thats just the edge of the wheel right, on top of that the tire poke so it may be about an inch sticking out, tires sidewall compared to the fender edge.

check out my build page, I have some images of the Pro-Comps at 0 vs my OEM setup that might help give you an idea on the look.

Posted

Fitting aside the factory sizes and offsets are matched to factory rubber based on the tires slip angles and the suspension geometry being used to optimize safety. A wheel sales rep may indeed be very knowledgeable about what fits and what doesn't but I'll bet he can not explain how the planed changes effect the functionality as it concerns safety. 

 

Takes a bit more than making sure something fits without interference when you change something like this. Wheel offsets have a direct impact on steering ackerman, dampening leverage ratios and CA/tie rod arcs. Just say'n. Be careful...if not for yourself, for those you share the road with.  

Posted

20x9 with 0 offset will be roughly 1" further out from the center of the truck vs your stock 20x9 ET24.  No need for pics and all of that.  Just take a tape measure and see what 1" more looks like on your truck.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

They will rub in the rear of the front fender when turning. I had 20x9 0 offset with 285/60/20  and it rubbed with a 2.5" level. I trimmed the plastic piece and zip tied my liners back to help. 295/60/20 is taller and wider.

Posted

Just put a 3” level kit in my 2017 Silverado 1500 Z71. Still running factory rims and 265/60/18 tires.  I want to go to a 285/70/18.  Offsets are confusing a little in that the information I can find is that the OEM  wheels have a 24mm offset.  I’ve read that some people recommend not deviating too far from the original factory offset, but I would really like to put on Fuel Maverick D538, 18x9 with a 0mm offset and go to 285s, just don’t know if I can with out rubbing and/or trimming.  Any guidance and information would be greatly appreciated, much thanks.

Posted
16 minutes ago, Bigfitter said:

Just put a 3” level kit in my 2017 Silverado 1500 Z71. Still running factory rims and 265/60/18 tires.  I want to go to a 285/70/18.  Offsets are confusing a little in that the information I can find is that the OEM  wheels have a 24mm offset.  I’ve read that some people recommend not deviating too far from the original factory offset, but I would really like to put on Fuel Maverick D538, 18x9 with a 0mm offset and go to 285s, just don’t know if I can with out rubbing and/or trimming.  Any guidance and information would be greatly appreciated, much thanks.

I send at least 2 guys a week here.

Go to the gallery, enter your stats . Hundreds of trucks like that run what they run.

 

www.customwheeloffset.com

Posted
On 4/3/2020 at 6:28 PM, dieselfan1 said:

I send at least 2 guys a week here.

Go to the gallery, enter your stats . Hundreds of trucks like that run what they run.

 

www.customwheeloffset.com

I highly recommend them also.  Gallery is insanely huge - you tube videos are very informative.  Great group of people. Got my wheels from them. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Sean006 said:

I highly recommend them also.  Gallery is insanely huge - you tube videos are very informative.  Great group of people. Got my wheels from them. 

Custom Offsets is a great outfit. Best prices and fast service. And the gallery will answer any of your fitment questions.

I also bought my wheels/tires and lift kit from them.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,346 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...