Jump to content

Most useful truck mods?


Recommended Posts

Posted
On 6/12/2018 at 10:21 AM, truckguy82 said:

Talk to anyone with a painted front bumper and they will tell you they have an absurd amount chips in the paint.

 

I get about 20 chips per year if I had to guess a number. So cover that up. It’s just front bumper.

First thing i did on my truck was put a 3m clear film on the front of the truck.  4 years going on and no chips on my truck.  Still looks great.

  • Replies 38
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
On ‎6‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 9:23 AM, johnboy105 said:

Just a personal experience on window visors - I had them on mine, but took them off.... I was thinking they would help allow the windows to be open (a bit) in the rain, but they didn't do squat for that.  Also, I found them somewhat obscuring my view when making left hand turns, as it made the visibility around the A pillar seems like I needed to move my head to the left frequently to see "around" the visor.... 

 

For reference, I had the WeatherTech 'in-channel' ones - they looked nice installed from the outside, but just didn't have the practical function I was hoping for.

Same here but what I do find them useful for and the actual reason I bought them anyway is when it rains, if you open a window all the roof water ends up in the truck and inside the door. What ever happened to drip rails? 

41 minutes ago, Rock1500 said:

First thing i did on my truck was put a 3m clear film on the front of the truck.  4 years going on and no chips on my truck.  Still looks great.

First mod I did and what a paint protector it has been. I had a gravel truck just today spray me with a half a shovel full of shoulder gravel. Not a mark on the paint. Some hit the windshield and no chips I can see...yet...it's dirty. Wish I would have put it on the black bumper. It's chipped silly. 

Posted
First thing i did on my truck was put a 3m clear film on the front of the truck.  4 years going on and no chips on my truck.  Still looks great.
Has the 3m turned any shade of yellow yet? I was looking into 3m ppf after I get my bumpers color matched but a local shop said that 3m would turn yellow so he recommended Suntek ppf.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Posted
Has the 3m turned any shade of yellow yet? I was looking into 3m ppf after I get my bumpers color matched but a local shop said that 3m would turn yellow so he recommended Suntek ppf.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

No yellow at all. I also have my truck stored / parked in a garage as well. So that could be something to it. Plus when I was my truck every year, I also put a coat on my 3m as well for an added protection.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Posted

If you've got kids, adding a USB charger for the rear passengers is a must. I've 2 teens and they love this mod. It was easy to do and took all of 15 minutes, start to finish, depending on if you have the jump seat or full center console. I've got the jump seat in mine. I've changed it out for a dual 2.5A instead of the one pictured already. 

dual usb adapter2.jpg

dual usb adapter1.jpg

Posted
If you've got kids, adding a USB charger for the rear passengers is a must. I've 2 teens and they love this mod. It was easy to do and took all of 15 minutes, start to finish, depending on if you have the jump seat or full center console. I've got the jump seat in mine. I've changed it out for a dual 2.5A instead of the one pictured already. 
5b2a9af7226f5_dualusbadapter2.thumb.jpg.48bc96878dbe450acfa526df9e3dc866.jpg
5b2a9af8ece51_dualusbadapter1.thumb.jpg.5a62b6acd13511072be2fac989de62bb.jpg

Looks great. I want to do this but my seat is all cloth so I’m not sure where to mount it yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Just now, Neallynein said:


Looks great. I want to do this but my seat is all cloth so I’m not sure where to mount it yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've got the cloth seats too. That panel with the two outlets just pops off, grab it from the bottom and give it a nice gentle yank towards you and it comes right off. Then just unplug the the outlet on the right. I tapped into those same wires so I only needed like a 12" jumper from the USB outlet going over to the other one. I'll pull it off when I get home later and take some pics if you want to see? 

Posted
I've got the cloth seats too. That panel with the two outlets just pops off, grab it from the bottom and give it a nice gentle yank towards you and it comes right off. Then just unplug the the outlet on the right. I tapped into those same wires so I only needed like a 12" jumper from the USB outlet going over to the other one. I'll pull it off when I get home later and take some pics if you want to see? 

I don’t have that plastic panel. It’s all cloth


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
7 minutes ago, Neallynein said:


I don’t have that plastic panel. It’s all cloth


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had to look that one up, I see what you're saying now. 

Posted
On 6/13/2018 at 8:06 PM, SirenRed16 said:

Has the 3m turned any shade of yellow yet? I was looking into 3m ppf after I get my bumpers color matched but a local shop said that 3m would turn yellow so he recommended Suntek ppf.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

I have 3M on my 2014 Volvo. ZERO yellowing that I can see against the silver paint.

My 2017 Silverado midnight has the XPEL ultimate (10 year warranty). If you own a Z71 with a painted bumper, filming is a MUST to protect the paint IMO and it should be done right away.

Posted
I have 3M on my 2014 Volvo. ZERO yellowing that I can see against the silver paint.
My 2017 Silverado midnight has the XPEL ultimate (10 year warranty). If you own a Z71 with a painted bumper, filming is a MUST to protect the paint IMO and it should be done right away.
I have the chrome front end but am looking at color marching so I'm looking around in ppf. The color match is going to run me $1400 so I better protect it lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Posted
Had to look that one up, I see what you're saying now. 

I’ll figure something out. I want it for my footwell lights so the wire isn’t in the center console and visible. I may even hard wire to the 12v spot. Who knows. So many projects so little time


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 minute ago, Neallynein said:


I’ll figure something out. I want it for my footwell lights so the wire isn’t in the center console and visible. I may even hard wire to the 12v spot. Who knows. So many projects so little time


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know the feeling. There's more mods I want to do to mine still but between trying to find time and convince my wife it's needed, I'm already tired. LOL 

Posted
17 hours ago, SirenRed16 said:

I have the chrome front end but am looking at color marching so I'm looking around in ppf. The color match is going to run me $1400 so I better protect it lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

might i make a suggestion...if color match grill and bumper is going to cost you that much...you can just get a color match grill and upgrade you bumper...mine was give or take $1000...and no, i dont have to worry about rock chips on my bumper :)5b23afe45c332_fronttruck.thumb.jpg.ca12083bdde0d43ca4a8a85b22c546a2.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         
    • Around 2008 if memory serves they took sulfur out. That was when diesel went up. 
    • Question for you Grumpy, why is diesel so much more than gasoline? Seems to me that it may be slightly a little less refined than gas and it doesn't have 10% alcohol which presumably lowers the price of gas
    • Thanks, so being a different beast altogether, anyone know what the "optimal" temp is for the 10L80/90 for proper shifting?
    • How many years have I pointed out every point in that link to the folks here and been avalanched with criticisms and outright hostilities at times? I ran counter to even the great CUSTOMBOSS and Lake Speed Jr and the half dozen experts on YouTube and in the final.....GM, Physics (Stribeck) backs that Grumpy old Bear.    Honestly, I never said a thing engineering hadn't studied silly and laid in concrete during WWII. But I'm old, the information is old and yet, the Laws of Physics are eternal.    Okay there is one exception. I vehemently disagree with their use of the word 'tolerances' when what it meant is "clearance".   The clearance is the distance between two objects. The tolerance is the degree of acceptable variation permitted in that clearance. I.E., piston to bore clearance is 0.004" with a tolerance of +/- .0002" so the clearance is in specification if it lies between 0.0038" and 0.0042". Cutting that 'tolerance in half has ZERO impact on lubrication requirements. Makes for more difficulty in manufacturing.  But a tighter clearance 'MAY'. Depends on finish. Anyway....   It's one of those statements made by people to make themselves look smarter than they are to convince people who are as un-enlighten as they seem to manipulate their behaviors. But hey, the blind leading the blind puts them both in the pit. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...