Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 7/27/2020 at 11:01 AM, rallysport096 said:

@pgamboa Phil, did you ever get it figured out? Thanks!

In for this.  I know this has got to be a major PITA to develop a solution for, but consider me one of the first in line if it can be made to work.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I know this is kind of old, but I just added a Redarc to my 2014 and figured I'd share my control mounting location since I've not seen anyone else put it where I did and yes I know my truck is filthy right now. 

 

PXL_20201023_205108289.thumb.jpg.22ca398f58478d6b5de722bad9755649.jpg

Edited by truckmann
Image Edit
  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 10/23/2020 at 5:19 PM, truckmann said:

I know this is kind of old, but I just added a Redarc to my 2014 and figured I'd share my control mounting location since I've not seen anyone else put it where I did and yes I know my truck is filthy right now. 

 

HP3CzRy3SyZbtBwGJL7Z6tZu-uIypXoOsnVJj4UJywjzkt2N6okS4rgCRLWHKxmHWK5UwMu9F4yFfmTx29QMZWrW1iNgrmuieGK0XQOiWcFhQxuidrAjckSqc7vxWA90fAiBA6utWbftfvVGKD5Naw3tt9dTFSxEdt5VtMDVSNEK4nWNkz6qVGyJIdBlloFA4EyitrEnuyzgas58Yv4vpgubahYePGtWYqczhKnNIiwM0MSZHVcWOqRbKo172LYTcZbWjJ1qkwgnWcOeLehLwte1_KUHqltN_rpEo7QoT60Tldp6JeieUSIpqucBtXgluzlrGc3XcN5i639KxwigH7gFVc3C1NXAipXt-m9V5L_LpRJaK928mp0AnmAyVWXMSYobgownFOlgEnYMs7qOCXsGxO_awmzzV9Gt5U_qlt7UFC5s5kk1pvfyPy-D4GLBSCbInUnqDRzLxeXq_gTLakGnxt8_C6lDt8Y8WwCewr_v16afxHpzVBZgA2NGKp_f08pBM8bRBtk6GsrvvxUzot7Ms4DkP8FXZUYlaMJRrWZDb9J9bUNkd0IZi-2meCwtTmuYR9v5pB6RNrTCWZrQ8VRcghy584efs0tSOLg-67xYF2XnFn-qWQC9NSCbKuW8Xi8ePT-J4bslKYyjtdsj6XMJm0f_lX5byV0NaxhveaEY5vxUtf0tQk90MOD2lA=w689-h918-no?authuser=0

Can you re-add the picture? I just got my redarc and trying to figure out where I want to put it. Thanks

Posted
32 minutes ago, JonMS said:

Can you re-add the picture? I just got my redarc and trying to figure out where I want to put it. Thanks

I'm assuming you can't see my picture so I just edited my original post to change how the image is attached. Let me know if that works for you. 

  • 3 years later...
Posted

I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado crew cab LT model and it didn’t come with the trailer brake control module on the dash but I added it and it was a plug-in play and it’s not working. Everything else is working the brake lights do and the blinkers does computer need to be flashed or turned on or I have no idea someone please help. I have checked the harness. It’s in good shape. Everything looks right and all of the fuses are in the right places.

Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, jakey0318 said:

I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado crew cab LT model and it didn’t come with the trailer brake control module on the dash but I added it and it was a plug-in play and it’s not working. Everything else is working the brake lights do and the blinkers does computer need to be flashed or turned on or I have no idea someone please help. I have checked the harness. It’s in good shape. Everything looks right and all of the fuses are in the right places.

 

 

You...can NOT...add...the...factory GM integrated controller...

 

Here's the defacto no straight from GM - PIT5241E Adding Integrated Trailer Brake Controller RPO JL1 (nhtsa.gov)

 

Take the factory switch out of the dash, sell it and get any brand aftermarket brake controller and install it.  

 

 

Edited by newdude
  • Like 2
Posted

What newdude said.

 

If you use the search feature on these forums you will find lots of thread discussing this, but like the bulletin above says it can't be done.

  • Like 1
  • 5 months later...
Posted

I have a 2018 Silverado 1500 Z71 4wd and I don't have the trailer brake switch on the panel ( small storage pocket). I pulled the trim panel and plugged into the back of the pocket to a dummy plug is a harness. Is that not for being able to add the factory switch by changing out the trim panel that has the switch? Confused on this subject 

Thanks

Posted
13 minutes ago, 2018 Sonny said:

I have a 2018 Silverado 1500 Z71 4wd and I don't have the trailer brake switch on the panel ( small storage pocket). I pulled the trim panel and plugged into the back of the pocket to a dummy plug is a harness. Is that not for being able to add the factory switch by changing out the trim panel that has the switch? Confused on this subject 

Thanks

If your truck does not have the RPO code, JL1, you can not add the factory controller.

 

PIT5241E Adding Integrated Trailer Brake Controller RPO JL1 Models Brand: Cadillac Chevrolet Chevrolet Chevrolet Chevrolet GMC GMC GMC Model: Escalade Silverado 1500 Silverado Suburban Tahoe Sierra 1500 VIN: Model Years: 2015 - 2018 2014 2015 - 2018 2015 - 2018 from All All Engine: to All All All Transmissions: All All All All 2015 - 2018 2014 Sierra Yukon Supersession Statement 2015 - 2018 2015 - 2018 All All All All This PI was superseded to update Models section. Please discard PIT5241D. Condition / Concern All All All All All All All All All All All All All All All All All All All Some customers may request the factory Integrated Trailer Brake Controller (RPO JL1) be installed on their Full-Size Pickup or SUV when the vehicle was not ordered with the option. This is to advise you that, if the vehicle does not have the option (RPO JL1), it cannot be added to the vehicle. Note: Reference the latest version of PI1105 - which advises how to install an aftermarket trailer brake controller

 

Posted

So if I don't have the that RPO, does that mean no module and or just would need reprogramming if I switch it out.

Also why would it be there if I couldn't use it?

Thanks. 

20241022_141616.jpg

20241022_141622.jpg

Posted
19 minutes ago, 2018 Sonny said:

So if I don't have the that RPO, does that mean no module and or just would need reprogramming if I switch it out.

Also why would it be there if I couldn't use it?

Thanks. 

20241022_141616.jpg

20241022_141622.jpg

Cheaper to put multiple plugs in the truck, even if they are not used, rather than tearing everything apart later to add it. I have the E85 plug and wiring under my truck, it is not set up for that type of fuel. The controller is the switch, all of the functions and settings are embedded in the BCM, straight from the factory, system is more than just the switch. Even dealers can not get into the program to add to the truck.

Posted
23 minutes ago, 2018 Sonny said:

So if I don't have the that RPO, does that mean no module and or just would need reprogramming if I switch it out.

Also why would it be there if I couldn't use it?

Thanks. 

 

 

 

 

No.  Read it again.  It means you can't add it.  Get an aftermarket controller and be done with it.  

 

PIT5241G: Adding Integrated Trailer Brake Controller RPO JL1 - (Mar 30, 2020)

 

Condition/Concern

Some customers may request the factory Integrated Trailer Brake Controller (RPO JL1) be installed on their Full-Size Pickup or SUV when the vehicle was not ordered with the option. 

This is to advise you that, if the vehicle does not have the option (RPO JL1), it cannot be added to the vehicle. 

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

For people wandering about the JL1. Most of you are claiming that your truck isn’t factory installed JL1 but you have the JL1 module beneath the bed above the spare tire. That module you are seeing is the fuel pump driver module which is mounted to a bracket onthe underside of it. For JL1 there is a K38 chassis control module that is mounted to the top side of this bracket, a K133 trailer brake power control module that’s mounted beneath it next to the fuel pump driver module. The wiring for S76 trailer brake control switch is in fact pre wired through the dash and is terminated at the X138 connector. The wires needed to control the other two modules is not there. This very well can in fact be added after the fact providing you have factory wiring schematics and the knowledge of electrical connectors to research what connectors are used and what terminals are needed for each of the various connectors you’d be pinning the needed wiring into. There’s also some GMLAN wiring that comes from the BCM and feeds the ECM, the electronic steering gear, K17 electronic brake control module, from the K17 the GMLAN terminates with a R6A resistor. Depending on your truck, this GMLAN leaves the K17 and feeds into the K19 magnetic suspension module then passes through and feeds into the K38 before termination into the R6A.

Edited by C. White
Posted
4 hours ago, C. White said:

For people wandering about the JL1. Most of that are claiming that your truck isn’t factory installed JL1 and that you do have the JL1 module beneath the bed above the spare tire. That module you are seeing is the fuel pump driver module which mounted to a bracket on underside of it. For JL1 there is a K38 chassis control module that is mounted to the top side of this bracket, a K133 trailer brake power control module that’s mounted beneath it next to the fuel pump driver module. The wiring for S76 trailer brake control switch is in fact pre wired through the dash and is terminated at the X138 connector. The wires needed to control the oth other to modules is not there. This very well can in fact be added after the fact providing you have factory wiring schematics and the knowledge of electrical connectors to research what connectors are used and what terminals are needed for each of the various connectors you’d be pinning the needed wiring into. There’s also some GMLAN wiring that comes from the BCM and feeds into ECM, the electronic steering gear, K17 electronic brake control module, and from the K17 the GMLAN terminates with a R6A resistor. Depending on your truck, this GMLAN leaves the K17 and feeds into the magnetic suspension module then passes through and feeds into the K38 before termination into the R6A.

 

So are you saying that it actually is possible to install the factory trailer brake controller and have it work? If so, can you provide a complete writeup as well as pictures of the project. Also can you provide the info/part numbers on the missing modules and possible wiring harnesses that prevent just installing the OEM brake controller only to find out that it doesn't work?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Glad it worked for you. I tried that 1st, about 2 years ago. Didn't help. I also tried doing a hard reset (disconnecting battery for minimum of 30 minutes). Worked a couple times, but after one summer of doing it over and over, that no longer worked.  I was fairly confident it was either the compressor or a failed actuator, but I just couldn't identify which one. Had to research which actuators do what and which last numbers are associated with each.
    • Took me FIFTEEN MINUTES to find this. Isn't that a problem? On the mainstream media I can INSTANTLY find 100 articles bashing President Trump ... but when it comes to TRUTH in American corporate news & search engines, it's carefully filtered to support ONE SIDE. A Republic cannot survive like this! Incredible! Even all the AI searchers out there failed as well! ChatGPT said it needed more details on the video that I provided a DIRECT LINK to! I thought AI was the be-all, end-all?? I had to dig it up myself. This should be FRONT PAGE NEWS!!! 🤬   Here's the statement directly from our President:     Glenn Beck's reporting on the operation:   https://glennbeck.com/watch/videos/trump-just-revealed-a-massive-military-secret-that-lowered-gas-prices   In case that link doesn't work, here's the YouTube link:    
    • More is cylinder deactivation. Kia-Hyundai Ive had 4. The warranty is the same 10 years 100K miles. My grandson drives the first one 05 Elantra GT. My wife drives the second one 2011 Genesis. The Genesis still performs as new and looks great. The Elantra looks rough. He’s not kind to it. The third was a Genesis coup. The fourth was a Santa Fe. Those were my daily drivers. I don’t keep them long. Kia is the same as Hyundai with the same warranty. I looked at the K-4 today. Too small, otherwise pretty good buy. Most of Hyundai and Kia’s have a performance upgrade. 
    • Thanks for the point of reference 
    • Great question. Answer....depends. One the volume of the crankcase, the driver that will actually be using the vehicle and the amount it uses plus the distance expected for that next trip. Couple of for instances:   Wife is going to drive Dizzy to Moline and back plus a bit around town so say 500 miles on the day. I know from years with that SUV that around town and local rural it uses about a quart in 1250 miles. But on the Interstate and her at the wheel without her anchor nagging her she'll push it and it will drop a quart in about 800 miles. Hence, around town I wait to somewhere between a quarter down to a quart down. On her trip I'd top it if it was down a few ounces and hope for the best.    Have I overfilled one? You mean by adding before it needs a full quart I assume. No, not once after finding the true fill mark.  I know the dipsticks of everything I drive and add what it needs. I learn this by doing the first oil change a quart low. Run the motor for a few minutes. Let it sit over night. Check and mark. Then add half a cup at a time making note of the place on the stick. I add through the dipstick tube with a barbeque basting bottle. Give it a few minutes to drain down and check again.    A vehicle like Dizzy that uses this much oil will take a few quarts between 3K changes. I keep one in the vehicle with the bottle and a bag. (Mindful of it's fullness) Not a big deal and never makes a mess of it. There is no such thing as "multiple quarts' in my shop for any specific oil. There will be a maximum however of the number of different oils used over the fleet.     Dizzy holds a nominal 5 quarts. So the first fill was indeed over as it actually took 4.75. My vehicles are fit with Valvomax valves so I can meter an ounce on the drain if need be. Found her mark first crack at it. Never to be repeated.    Pepper uses none between changes so I don't keep a quart in that one. Straight up 6 quarts put her dead on the full line. Check it ever fuel stop. They will surprise you when they start using.    Raven holds 3 liters or 5.44 ounces over three quarts. I add 3 quarts and 6 ounces. That gives me 5 oil changes on my orphan quart.    Lawnmower holds about 3/5 of a quart. I don't over fill it to prevent an orphan. So yea, depends. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...