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2015 brake job

ryanhardy

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ryanhardy Enthusiast

ryanhardy

Posted
Posted

Has anyone changed the brakes on their 2015+ 3/4-1 tons yet? mine have started to fade fairly quickly.... im at about 48k miles, and it seems a little early for a brake job. I will say though, I did take 2 2000 mile trips with a fully loaded 24ft trailer and a non working trailer brake. Non the less, i honestly can NOT get this caliper off. Air, battery, heat, pipe on a ratchet, I've tried EVERYTHING and I CANNOT get this caliper off. Anyone had any issues with it as well? The guide pins are sealed, so the bolt that I'm talking about is the actually caliper mounting bolt. Maybe one of you has some sort of tip or trick to get this done.... never ran into this issue before

8lugCT Enthusiast

8lugCT

Posted
Posted

here for the result as i'll be doing brakes in somewhat of the near future. 52k so far, but havent pulled a single thing. No direct sign that i'll need a change soon, but i'm sure it's coming.

  • 3 weeks later...
Bobby Bouchee Enthusiast

Bobby Bouchee

Posted
Posted

105k on my '14 DRW DMAX and still going strong on OEM brakes. 98% of my miles have been towing a trailer 5 days/wk, which weighs between 10-15k. Trailer is 6 years old and has needed one full set of brakes replaced 18 months ago, based on how I keep the gain adjusted.

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gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
Posted

So how does this guy get the caliper off?

Seems like he knows what he's doing, so is there a trick?

We all need to know....

mjm-1957 Enthusiast

mjm-1957

Posted
Posted

The rubber plugs are pried out of the calipers and the slide pin bolts are removed, The caliper is hung on a wire you rig up to make sure its not hanging by the brake hose and get it out of your way.The bolts I believe he is talking about, hold the caliper bridge to the knuckle,they are loctited from the factory and can be a real pain in the ass to remove,we use heat to soften up the thread sealer and hit it with an impact gun. Make sure you lubricate those slides and reinstall the rubber plugs.

  • 4 weeks later...
ryanhardy Enthusiast

ryanhardy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well guys, sorry for the late update, Turns out the reason for my brakes fading so fast was a caliper that was frozen, and caused it to burn through the entire pad on the backside of the front caliper. Luckily, I have an extended warranty, so I ended up just paying the deductible and the dealership changed 1 caliper and both sides for pads. The seemed to think it was a common issue with trucks up North, although I can't say that I've had the issue before, and it happened in the middle of the summer, so I'm assuming they have no idea what they're talking about. None the less, crisis averted, and the brakes are back up in good condition. thanks for all the help!

rkj__ Enthusiast

rkj__

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, ryanhardy said:

well guys, sorry for the late update, Turns out the reason for my brakes fading so fast was a caliper that was frozen, and caused it to burn through the entire pad on the backside of the front caliper. Luckily, I have an extended warranty, so I ended up just paying the deductible and the dealership changed 1 caliper and both sides for pads. The seemed to think it was a common issue with trucks up North, although I can't say that I've had the issue before, and it happened in the middle of the summer, so I'm assuming they have no idea what they're talking about. None the less, crisis averted, and the brakes are back up in good condition. thanks for all the help!

 

My 2008 GMC Canyon had lots of seized calipers.  One stuck so bad, I could smell burning brakes when I got off the highway.  I replaced it.  A few years later, when I went to get it safetied to sell it, they told me they had to replace both calipers, since they were both sticking. 

  • 1 month later...
dozerboy Enthusiast

dozerboy

Posted
Posted
well guys, sorry for the late update, Turns out the reason for my brakes fading so fast was a caliper that was frozen, and caused it to burn through the entire pad on the backside of the front caliper. Luckily, I have an extended warranty, so I ended up just paying the deductible and the dealership changed 1 caliper and both sides for pads. The seemed to think it was a common issue with trucks up North, although I can't say that I've had the issue before, and it happened in the middle of the summer, so I'm assuming they have no idea what they're talking about. None the less, crisis averted, and the brakes are back up in good condition. thanks for all the help!


The dealers correct seized calipers are very common in vehicles in the Rust Belt. It happening in the summer doesn’t matter rust doesn’t stop just because there’s no snow on the ground.

I will need new brakes soon and I’m at 160k on my 2015 2500


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  • 1 month later...
dozerboy Enthusiast

dozerboy

Posted
Posted

My brakes where about wore out because of the shitty little seals GM put on the end of the calipers. One of them was torn and the slide pin was starting to get seized up.


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  • 6 months later...
doosierra Enthusiast

doosierra

Posted
Posted
On ‎10‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 5:03 PM, Bobby Bouchee said:

105k on my '14 DRW DMAX and still going strong on OEM brakes. 98% of my miles have been towing a trailer 5 days/wk, which weighs between 10-15k. Trailer is 6 years old and has needed one full set of brakes replaced 18 months ago, based on how I keep the gain adjusted.

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that's crazy miles on stock brakes

q.poole Enthusiast

q.poole

Posted
Posted
On 8/29/2019 at 3:42 PM, doosierra said:

that's crazy miles on stock brakes

Apparently I got lucky, I just changed my pads and rotors at 130k miles and I bet i still had 20-30% left... 

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