Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Whats the average cost for a cam install on 2014 Silverado 5.3l?  I was quoted $2100 plus parts and fluids,  seems a bit high to me

Posted
Whats the average cost for a cam install on 2014 Silverado 5.3l?  I was quoted $2100 plus parts and fluids,  seems a bit high to me

I was quoted max $3500 with labor cam stall retune everything, 2014 6.2 in Alabama
Posted

It's high fluids aren't much at all and cam is easy. I would say 1000 max plus cam and parts.worst part is coolant and radiator so cam can slide out. 

At buddies performance shop 2 guys can tear block down to short block in 15 minutes. One guy with mini electric impact and other handling tools and taking parts away. Scared the hell out of a guy with a new caddy. He went to the front to talk to owner came back and freaked. But we showed him the issue first hand. He went cheap and found a person on Facebook to install rockets. Kid didnt follow instructions and install shims. So valves hit piston. 

Check to see the offical quote for time on that job then multiply by hour rate. Also get a good faith estimate in writing so you dont come back to a 3k bill.

Posted

This is the message they sent explaining cost,  I have the cam and phaser kit.

 

Labor is around 2100. Tune 450. Plus all the parts and gaskets and fluids. All the dod/afm will need to be deleted. We are a dealer for btr.

That truck calls for 24 hours labor. The heads have to come off oil ports need to be modified and blocked oil pan will need removed to be able to change the timing set.

Posted (edited)

The labor should be in the hundreds, not in the thousands. 

 

Call 10 repair shops, and go with the cheapest one that is reputable. 

 

If it takes you an hour on the phone, and it saves you $2,000 - then you just got paid $2,000 per hour to make phone calls. Sounds like a good job to me. 

Edited by starman8tdc
  • Like 1
Posted

Book time for R+R a camshaft is 29.8 hours 2WD and 30.2 hours 4WD.  Warranty time from GM is 21.3hr for 2WD, 21.6hr for 4WD.  GM does call for the removal of the engine from the truck. 

 

24 hours doesn't seem totally unreasonable considering they are modifying oil ports.  On these 2014 DI trucks, if they pull the fuel rails from the heads (if necessary for whatever work they have to do to them), all 8 injectors must be re-sealed, and to pull the heads and all the high pressure fuel pipes must be replaced from the high pressure pump to the rails.

Posted

2100 sounds about right. Or just do it yourself and have it towed in for the tune. That's what I did. I did my Cam and stall converter. Then towed it to shop for the Custom Tune

Posted
1 hour ago, flipmode815 said:

I got the COMP Cams XFI AFM GM Gen V Camshaft if that makes any difference 

It sort of does.  That line of cams is actually able to retain all the AFM hardware, so that could save you some money if you wanted to keep AFM.  I'd recommend getting rid of it for a more reliable valvetrain and it seems that's what the shop intends to do.  But if you do that, you could use a cam with higher lift that will make more power.  It's a decent amount of money to spend, so make sure you're picking the right cam before you do it.

Posted (edited)

That honestly sounds like a good deal to me. You either have to remove the engine or take the entire front clip off the truck as the camshaft is wound-into the motor from the front cover. You need to pull the heads to do a full AFM/DOD delete. You may have to pull the crank pulley off as well? 

 

They quoted me $4,600 to do the same in Canada on my 6.2L truck, a P1 Procharger kit is $7,500. So you will get more power for your dollar going Forced Induction in Canada anyway. I went ultra cheap and did neither. CAI is all I ended up doing and my dealer bitches about it every time the truck visits and I have to give them a timeline of how long it has been installed.  

 

EDIT: I just saw your link for your cam, it is a AFM/DOD cam that will work with GM's systems without deleting them, this should save 4-6hr labour and a couple hundred in parts. 

Edited by L86 All Terrain
Posted

My truck is daily driven thats why I picked a mild cam, I also have the Range technology AFM disabler chip on it already.  

Posted

Here is a link to the install of the cam retaining DOD/AFM

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/engine/1501-2014-chevy-lt1-comp-cam-swap-bigger-bumpstick/

you’ll note it doesn’t require removal of the heads

 

Here is a link (on that other truck site...) to the install of a cam with a DOD/AFM delete

https://www.silveradosierra.com/how-to-articles/how-to-delete-your-afm-dod-and-or-vvt-t71745.html

you’ll notice heads come off 

if you go to a site like Texas Speed and just price a complete swap and delete kit it’s over 750 bucks for the most basic cam kit the cam and phaser is 1/2 the cost of the kit. Then another 350 for the DOD delete kit. Then your still on your own for fluids. So if you were to do this in your garage parts and fluids alone would be 1200ish

 

if you go read some on the Vette forums most of those guys get quoted 20+ hours labor for a swap and delete prices average 3500+ for cam, all parts, fluids, labor, test & tune on the dyno. 

 

So yeah I’d call around and go with the guy that quotes you a couple hundred bucks to do it all. Then wonder why you’re sitting on your tailgate on the side of the road staring at 8 quarts of oil on the ground waiting on the wrecker a thousand miles down the road...

 

 

 

Posted

I was curious of what it would cost me around here, I called a shop well known for working on these trucks and was quoted $4500 otd or $1500 for labor and $650 for tune. So $2150 for labor and tune but I would need to supply everything

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Locally, so far I've been quoted $3000 and done with engine in the truck to $4000 for pulling the engine and taking it down to the short block to complete the updates. New cam with AFM delete and retune.  I'm leaning more to the more expensive option due the experience level of the shop vs the less  expensive one.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,993
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    President Roberto
    Newest Member
    President Roberto
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 209 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I don't wanna do major surgery/upgrades, behind-the-dash work, add amps, change radio etc. on my '26 std cab WT. On the WT, it has the base 7" IOR infotainment setup, and only two speakers (doors). Since I listen to classical, looked around for speakers that do well and dug thru reviews. Two-way speakers were found to be better than 3-way. So I've ordered a pair of  Infinity Reference REF-9632IX 2 way speakers.  [These may  or may not have been discontinued / succeeded by the 3-way ...9633 ones.]    These speakers are lauded for 3 ohm and 94db sensitivity spec so they'll work well for ordinary base car radios without amps and offer better performance (quality,  strength) than  default base paper-cone speakers. They'll be installed in a few days and I'll let y'all know what I think. Bill W San Jose      
    • Thanks!   Changed out the rear shocks today to Bilstein 5100s.  So far feel much better. The stock Rancho were wore out.  Lots of heavy hauling (2 moves, home renovations, etc).  Next up is new BFG tires Monday.  Cant wait the current tires have little to no wet traction and are super loud (hum)    
    • Ok, I got the all the codes. What do you all think would be a place to start?
    • How about I just point to the factory pans stand pipe little drain plug and claim its a pan with a real drain plug !. I just couldn't swallow the fact that a Dorman pan which at this point is probably the only pan out there that fits the gas version truck cost that much up here in Canada so I decided initially anyway to skip it and see what I thought of pulling the pan method and down the road if I felt inclined enough then I would either install a drain plug kit in the factory pan if there is enough room for it, or have a bung welded onto it, or put an aftermarket pan on. The thing is if the pan is not pulled then the magnets in the pan can't be inspected and cleaned or if wanting to change out the filter. However of course it certainly would make the job easier to be able to drop the oil first before having to handle the pan if dropping the pan that go around was the goal.    I knew a guy locally that was doing custom field spraying years ago with a pickup pulling a ground driven sprayer, I believe it was a GM pickup with an automatic trans. He had a drain plug in his pan and would drop the oil out of it once a week and top it back up through the dipstick tube to keep refreshing a portion of the oil often and that made the transmission last far longer than had he done nothing. Soft fields pulling 500 gallons of water at the start of each mixed up sprayer tank batch and in low range sucking along. I imagine he got some tips from other custom sprayer outfits doing the same thing at the time and learning from their blown up tranny mistakes. Transmissions then had no lock up converter so would cook the crap out of the fluid slipping that much and it would not have been synthetic fluid either. 
    • 3.39 Kroger’s in Montgomery Texas. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...