Jump to content

Cst lift


Pepe1

Recommended Posts

Posted
Just now, TXGREEK said:

 


I’d price out a bit more but that seems right with taxes. Yes, Going rate for install, you don’t want to rush them either. Where r u located?




Sent from above

 

Mobile, AL

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Btw, I’d be very wary of doing a level past 2.25”, 2.5 plus has had negative issues with ball joints and UCA’s. If you’re wanting to do a 3” then you’ll end up getting new UCA’s too as well as front diff drop which even better getting the CST 4.5” and you’ll not have to buy anything else other than rear shocks.


Sent from above

Posted
On 1/3/2019 at 1:10 PM, SSchup said:

Here is a good article to read if you want to see what's involved when installing the CST 4 1/2" lift. 

I had the 4" CST lift on my 2013 Sierra and removed it before I sold it. Most times a truck can be put back to stock if you keep the piece of the LCA pocket that is cut off. Most lifts require cutting this piece to allow the front dif to be dropped.

I'm installing the new CST 4 1/2" bracket lift on my new 2018. I don't plan to ever go back to stock but I'm not worried knowing I could if I ever decided to.

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/1705-lifting-a-2017-silverado-1500-z71-with-cst-and-deaver/

Great read thanks for posting looks like that setup is over $5k just in parts alone. But gotta pay to do things right sometimes

Posted
Great read thanks for posting looks like that setup is over $5k just in parts alone. But gotta pay to do things right sometimes


$5K? 2700 installed with new rear shocks. allows you to use your stock wheels just may want at least 33” tires which that cost will be up to you.


Sent from above
Posted
8 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


$5K? 2700 installed with new rear shocks. allows you to use your stock wheels just may want at least 33” tires which that cost will be up to you.


Sent from above

 

Yea I’m talking about the build in the article quoted.  Unless I’m messing something?

 

looks like 

$2400 for the stage 2

$1850 for the front coils 

$699 for the control arms 

$1249  the piggyback rear shocks

not even including the skid plate or the add a leafs they did...

Posted

Yea I’m talking about the build in the article quoted.  Unless I’m messing something?

 

looks like 

$2400 for the stage 2

$1850 for the front coils 

$699 for the control arms 

$1249  the piggyback rear shocks

not even including the skid plate or the add a leafs they did...



If I’m not mistaken, Stage 2 just adds rear shocks so you can get the Stage 1 approx 1600-1700 then just add rear piggy backs and front coilovers w/o resi’s and you’ll have perfect front end geometry.

Here’s my 18 CC, 6.2, Z71 with the CST 4.5”

53391f0da5eb4b8268a9130e6189b290.jpg

4d1b692811e82518b22f2fec84589c69.jpg

e4f4765c50e2782d0e0aaa36f4fd004b.jpg

4600e7fecc1e8661a26327eb568d8c1e.jpg

a8b69163e7bbe08debf5ae9a4e42d748.jpg


Sent from above
Posted

Looks great I got very similar truck except Chevy and the factory 22s which I want to keep...looks like you stayed with the factory uca? Also what did you end up doing in the rear just blocks? Or did you add a leaf? 

Posted
Looks great I got very similar truck except Chevy and the factory 22s which I want to keep...looks like you stayed with the factory uca? Also what did you end up doing in the rear just blocks? Or did you add a leaf? 

 

Added an add a leaf plus the 3” block it came with. I highly recommend doing the lift and rear shocks, build as times goes by cause it doesn’t get any better than having this badass lift requiring “nothing else” other than your imagination [emoji6]

 

Not sure about 22” wheels, something I’d highly recommend you calling CST and asking about that. Good luck and do keep us posted

 

 

Sent from above

Posted
12 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

 


What shops, 4wheelparts?


Sent from above

 

no GCT Offroad a buddy of mine owns it.

 

 i will probably just go with the coil over or bilstien lift shocks (front) and a lift spring or rear block (rear). i probably wont keep this truck over 2 years since it has the 5.3. so i dont want to do any extreme mods. ill be going to a NBS AT4 with a 6.2L hopefully by then.

 

your truck has the perfect stance but im not sure i want to get that involved if im going to sell it in a couple years thanks for all the info

Posted
no GCT Offroad a buddy of mine owns it.
 
 i will probably just go with the coil over or bilstien lift shocks (front) and a lift spring or rear block (rear). i probably wont keep this truck over 2 years since it has the 5.3. so i dont want to do any extreme mods. ill be going to a NBS AT4 with a 6.2L hopefully by then.
 
your truck has the perfect stance but im not sure i want to get that involved if im going to sell it in a couple years thanks for all the info


Absolutely, you should do what ever makes you comfortable. Just though you should know, a lot of dealerships frown at lifted trade in trucks especially if it’s not top notch which means they’ll most likely lowball you anyway. The 6.2 is absolutely badass, you’ll love it when the time comes. Good luck [emoji1303] and thanks for the compliment.


Sent from above
Posted
2 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


Absolutely, you should do what ever makes you comfortable. Just though you should know, a lot of dealerships frown at lifted trade in trucks especially if it’s not top notch which means they’ll most likely lowball you anyway. The 6.2 is absolutely badass, you’ll love it when the time comes. Good luck emoji1303.png and thanks for the compliment.


Sent from above

 

oh yea i put 260,000 on a 6.2L denali the last 10 years, it just wasnt in the cards this go around since i just started a new business a year ago i needed to keep my payments at or below a certain number. the deal i got on this SLT premium plus was way better than the deal i could get on a 6.2 Denali this time but im happy with it, i just need to get the look right and a muffler where i can hear it running lol

 

Posted
oh yea i put 260,000 on a 6.2L denali the last 10 years, it just wasnt in the cards this go around since i just started a new business a year ago i needed to keep my payments at or below a certain number. the deal i got on this SLT premium plus was way better than the deal i could get on a 6.2 Denali this time but im happy with it, i just need to get the look right and a muffler where i can hear it running lol

 

 

My wife asked me why I bought the 18 when I could’ve waited for the 19 and my reply was “I’m not going to be the Guinea Pig like I was when I ran out and bought the newly redesigned 14” you’re better off waiting at least a couple more years but in all honesty, the interiors are literally identical. I’m wondering if the 2021 models are going to change at all like the 16’s did after the 14’s were introduced?

 

 

Sent from above

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I just had a 4.5 CST lift installed in my 2014 Silverado. One of my mechanic buddies tackled the job given he's off work from the COVID-19 shutdown. I've got Bilstein 5100s set to max height on the front and plan on dropping them back down near stock height as they were serving to level the front before the lift. I could go up to a 4 inch block in the rear, but don't really want to spend further dollars on new blocks and U-bolts. I can live with dropping the front about an inch to regain level.

 

So far I'm having steering issues as it won't re-center from either turn direction. Also, the way the brake lines were attached the upper A-arms the bracket is contacting the stock tires at full lock.

 

Questions: Do you have to install longer brake lines or is it just a routing problem with the bracket location? Anyone experience any steering effort or return to zero issues after install? If so, what should we focus on?

 

Steering had no issues before the install. The truck handles awesome and so far very happy with the lift to this point. Just need to address these last couple issues. Then new 295/60R20 Ridge Grapplers on some Fuel Tactics. The 275/55R20s can't live here long, LOL.

 

Thanks for the help.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...