Jump to content

Cst lift

Pepe1

By Pepe1
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

bhales
bhales

DANG sub -50 degrees.....no thanks i dont like sub 50 degrees lol

Bash74
Bash74

Are you trying to decide on what to get or already decided. I say just get whatever from and good name brand company. They are going to suit your needs especially if it's on pavement or nice roads mos

SSchup
SSchup

I have the CST 4.5" lift sitting in my shop, going on next week. I ran there 4" lift that was for the NNBS trucks on my 2013 Sierra. I ran that lift for two years with no problems. Even though the old

Posted Images

Bash74 Enthusiast

Bash74

Posted
Posted


And a day later after your first comment you’ve chosen to bring that up?? CST lifts have been involved in serious head on collisions and never breaking, Highly doubt a CST Lift broke unless of course there were modifications made to the welds while under extreme cold temperatures which is not going to hold up anywhere anytime without proper prepping by warming up weld areas. Besides being highly highly unlikely that would’ve been devastating to the rest of your vehicle as well being that weld point are throughout all of our vehicles, highly unlikely.




Sent from above
You act like CST is invincible. I am sure it's the only lift you have ever had and it's on a truck that spends majority of it's time on pavement but It's just another man made product that can break like the rest of the lifts out there. Thats why I am not going to say whatever X company is the best because there isnt one. Hell CST should make engines, or entire vehicles, or actually they should make every product on the face of the planet so no one will ever have to deal with something breaking since CST products cant break I guess.
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
You act like CST is invincible. I am sure it's the only lift you have ever had and it's on a truck that spends majority of it's time on pavement but It's just another man made product that can break like the rest of the lifts out there. Thats why I am not going to say whatever X company is the best because there isnt one. Hell CST should make engines, or entire vehicles, or actually they should make every product on the face of the planet so no one will ever have to deal with something breaking since CST products cant break I guess.
 

Nothing is invincible, stating a fact that CST is superior in build quality when compared to others doesn’t make them invincible. The majority of lifts I’ve owned were already on vehicles when purchased and dropped off for lifting on others. My experience is through the most purchased lifts. BDS is popular because of Fox which bailed them out before filing and Zone being the cheaper BDS owned brand. ProComp has held its own but still no where near the craftsmanship of CST. The list goes on but nothing is bullet proof. If CST was responsible for casting and molding of engine blocks I’d definitely be the first in line. Topic here is “Anyone have a CST Lift?” Not let’s bash a very high quality sought after lift?

It seems that every time CST comes into discussion the Inferiority complex begins.

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from above

 

Th3d00D New Member

Th3d00D

Posted
Posted

@TXGREEK I just bought the exact same truck as yours and have been researching lifts to get the front end up.  Most lifts require some amount of cutting which I don't think I can stomach on a new truck that cost me $50K.  I have read conflicting things about this lift one person said no cutting or mods involved and another person I believe had to cut off the lower control arm brackets.  I don't want to modify my truck to a point that it cant go back to factory for any reason.  Did you have to do any cutting?  Also did you install the rear lift blocks too or are you sitting level without them?  Thanks!

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
[mention=186622]TXGREEK[/mention] I just bought the exact same truck as yours and have been researching lifts to get the front end up.  Most lifts require some amount of cutting which I don't think I can stomach on a new truck that cost me $50K.  I have read conflicting things about this lift one person said no cutting or mods involved and another person I believe had to cut off the lower control arm brackets.  I don't want to modify my truck to a point that it cant go back to factory for any reason.  Did you have to do any cutting?  Also did you install the rear lift blocks too or are you sitting level without them?  Thanks!

Congratulations, you’ll love it. When I had my lift installed, I was told no cutting except for a couple small brackets which is far from destroying your cross members and removed one brace by unbolting it and replacing with CST Which is ENORMOUSLY higher quality than stock. Please, Please call CST to get your cutting question answered. On the rear I did the 3” CST blocks that came with lift and the add a leaf just Incase I add weight in rear and don’t want squatting. I totally understand your fear, never think it’s ok to cut, especially higher end trucks but if you’re going to lift, I’d lift using a highly sought after lift that would help sell your vehicle if you were ever put into that scenario. Imagine your truck lifted along side your same truck but with other lift kits, which one would you rather pic, CST, BDS, Rough[emoji90], Zone, ProComp?? Remember you really do get what you pay for. I’ve got maybe 2k miles on mine but couple members have over 50k on their lifts and still zero issues and with stock uca’s.

 

Forgot to mention that there’s no diff cutting either

 

Sent from above

 

SSchup Enthusiast

SSchup

Posted
Posted
25 minutes ago, Th3d00D said:

@TXGREEK I just bought the exact same truck as yours and have been researching lifts to get the front end up.  Most lifts require some amount of cutting which I don't think I can stomach on a new truck that cost me $50K.  I have read conflicting things about this lift one person said no cutting or mods involved and another person I believe had to cut off the lower control arm brackets.  I don't want to modify my truck to a point that it cant go back to factory for any reason.  Did you have to do any cutting?  Also did you install the rear lift blocks too or are you sitting level without them?  Thanks!

Here is a good article to read if you want to see what's involved when installing the CST 4 1/2" lift. 

I had the 4" CST lift on my 2013 Sierra and removed it before I sold it. Most times a truck can be put back to stock if you keep the piece of the LCA pocket that is cut off. Most lifts require cutting this piece to allow the front dif to be dropped.

I'm installing the new CST 4 1/2" bracket lift on my new 2018. I don't plan to ever go back to stock but I'm not worried knowing I could if I ever decided to.

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/1705-lifting-a-2017-silverado-1500-z71-with-cst-and-deaver/

  • Like 1
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
Here is a good article to read if you want to see what's involved when installing the CST 4 1/2" lift. 
I had the 4" CST lift on my 2013 Sierra and removed it before I sold it. Most times a truck can be put back to stock if you keep the piece of the LCA pocket that is cut off. Most lifts require cutting this piece to allow the front dif to be dropped.
I'm installing the new CST 4 1/2" bracket lift on my new 2018. I don't plan to ever go back to stock but I'm not worried knowing I could if I ever decided to.
http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/1705-lifting-a-2017-silverado-1500-z71-with-cst-and-deaver/


You don’t need to cut your front differential either like you do other lifts.


Sent from above
jimmyboy8301 Senior Enthusiast

jimmyboy8301

Posted
Posted


You don’t need to cut your front differential either like you do other lifts.


Sent from above

No, but you have to cut the upper control arm bump stops which you don’t on other lifts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted

Replaced the worthless upper stock plastic skid plate with new CST Skid Plate.

5cd23a6a4a1feaff074c9430dc24d840.jpg

cdfa6d0c434ffaa0b25d3946fc437308.jpg


Sent from above

  • Like 1
Sean D Enthusiast

Sean D

Posted
Posted

Iv been running the CST 4.5 lift with another 2” Bilsteins in the front, 2” block in the rear with 35”  BFG KO2 for the past 3.5 years no issues couldn’t be happier. I would say ride quality is similar to stock but you can see two to three cars ahead over the top of cars and trucks ?

  • Like 1
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
Iv been running the CST 4.5 lift with another 2” Bilsteins in the front, 2” block in the rear with 35”  BFG KO2 for the past 3.5 years no issues couldn’t be happier. I would say ride quality is similar to stock but you can see two to three cars ahead over the top of cars and trucks [emoji41]

 

Amen brother. Excellent company and employees

 

 

Sent from above

 

  • Like 1
bhales Enthusiast

bhales

Posted
Posted
On 1/4/2019 at 11:57 PM, TXGREEK said:

 

Amen brother. Excellent company and employees

 

 

Sent from above

 

ok so if i dont want to go with the 4.5 lift quite yet since my truck is only 3,000 miles old but i do "Have" to level it NOW for my sanity.

 what if i just went with the CST CoiloVERs and 3 inch blocks in the Rear for now so i could go ahead and Swap for my 295/60 20 ridge Grapplers (in my Garage FLoor) also have 4 inch round westin steps ready to go on as well.

I had 2 inch RC lift struts on my 08 Denali and the ride wasnt great. Will the CST coilovers set at 2 inches and 3 inch rear blocks give me a better ride than doing a level and rear blocks? also do i need to replace the factory rear Ranchos with a 3 inch block? i was thinking of just doing Bilstien 5100's but i think the CST coilovers will be a better ride?

 

 

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
ok so if i dont want to go with the 4.5 lift quite yet since my truck is only 3,000 miles old but i do "Have" to level it NOW for my sanity.
 what if i just went with the CST CoiloVERs and 3 inch blocks in the Rear for now so i could go ahead and Swap for my 295/60 20 ridge Grapplers (in my Garage FLoor) also have 4 inch round westin steps ready to go on as well.
I had 2 inch RC lift struts on my 08 Denali and the ride wasnt great. Will the CST coilovers set at 2 inches and 3 inch rear blocks give me a better ride than doing a level and rear blocks? also do i need to replace the factory rear Ranchos with a 3 inch block? i was thinking of just doing Bilstien 5100's but i think the CST coilovers will be a better ride?
 
 


Coilovers will always be a much better ride especially when compared to lift spacers. CST does have leveling coilovers that would give you a fantastic ride but are you, would you be in the future interested in doing a lift? If so please hold off, control your urges (lol) and wait till you do the 4.5”. My truck currently has 13K miles on it and installed the lift at 7K miles. I almost did exactly what you’re discussing and after lots of discussions and research I just decided to pull the trigger. Best thing I did instead of doing the leveling coilovers and only to buy them again but for the 4.5” lift. I talked one of my best friends into doing this exact thing and he was very happy he did it.

You can do the top of the line lift $1400 performancelifts.com, comes with rear 3” blocks and will still use your existing front coilovers which I highly recommend switching to CST Coilovers for the 4.5”. Add two new rear shocks $100 ea.

Doing the leveling coilovers will cause you to spend double for new front and additional labor and alignment.

FYI: Ridge Grapplers are awesome but are approximately 1/4” taller than average tire in the size you want.



Sent from above
bhales Enthusiast

bhales

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


Coilovers will always be a much better ride especially when compared to lift spacers. CST does have leveling coilovers that would give you a fantastic ride but are you, would you be in the future interested in doing a lift? If so please hold off, control your urges (lol) and wait till you do the 4.5”. My truck currently has 13K miles on it and installed the lift at 7K miles. I almost did exactly what you’re discussing and after lots of discussions and research I just decided to pull the trigger. Best thing I did instead of doing the leveling coilovers and only to buy them again but for the 4.5” lift. I talked one of my best friends into doing this exact thing and he was very happy he did it.

You can do the top of the line lift $1400 performancelifts.com, comes with rear 3” blocks and will still use your existing front coilovers which I highly recommend switching to CST Coilovers for the 4.5”. Add two new rear shocks $100 ea.

Doing the leveling coilovers will cause you to spend double for new front and additional labor and alignment.

FYI: Ridge Grapplers are awesome but are approximately 1/4” taller than average tire in the size you want.



Sent from above

 

my local shop is telling me $1900 after tax for the CST 4.5 stage 1 lift + $750 in labor

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
my local shop is telling me $1900 after tax for the CST 4.5 stage 1 lift + $750 in labor


I’d price out a bit more but that seems right with taxes. Yes, Going rate for install, you don’t want to rush them either. Where r u located?




Sent from above

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...