Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Did anyone ever figure out for certain if L7 or L6 tunes out DFM? I am chasing down a problem I think might be related to DFM but am not certain if it gets rid of it since there's no indication on the dash anymore. 


Thanks in advance! 

Edited by hotrodz37
Posted

One thing for sure, when foing down a steep mountain that downhill assist button does great!

I prolly would worry with a manual shifting unless I was carrying a heavy load. 

Posted
4 hours ago, hotrodz37 said:

Did anyone ever figure out for certain if L7 or L6 tunes out DFM? I am chasing down a problem I think might be related to DFM but am not certain if it gets rid of it since there's no indication on the dash anymore. 


Thanks in advance! 

Yes, for certain it does. L7 on an 8 speed, L9 on a 10 speed.

 

You can confirm this by driving at a speed in which top gear wouldn’t be attained anyway. Get the truck moving at a steady speed, steady throttle input, then click from L7 to L8 (or L9 to L10 on a 10 speed), back and forth.
 

The trans won’t downshift or upshift between the two gear selections, but you should hear and feel a slight difference. That is the DFM engaging and disengaging between the two gear selections. DFM won’t be active in L7, but will be in L8 (same, but with L9/L10 in ten speeds).
 

L8 and L10 are literally the same as drive because in manual mode you are only selecting the maximum gear it will shift into. So obviously if you do the test at a speed in which the truck would be in the top gear, it will downshift / upshift between 8 and 7, and the experiment won’t work. Have to do it when the trans won’t shift, and then the only difference from 7-8 or 9-10 will be DFM or no DFM, much easier to pattern.

  • Like 2
Posted
Yes, for certain it does. L7 on an 8 speed, L9 on a 10 speed.
 
You can confirm this by driving at a speed in which top gear wouldn’t be attained anyway. Get the truck moving at a steady speed, steady throttle input, then click from L7 to L8 (or L9 to L10 on a 10 speed), back and forth.
 
The trans won’t downshift or upshift between the two gear selections, but you should hear and feel a slight difference. That is the DFM engaging and disengaging between the two gear selections. DFM won’t be active in L7, but will be in L8 (same, but with L9/L10 in ten speeds).
 
L8 and L10 are literally the same as drive because in manual mode you are only selecting the maximum gear it will shift into. So obviously if you do the test at a speed in which the truck would be in the top gear, it will downshift / upshift between 8 and 7, and the experiment won’t work. Have to do it when the trans won’t shift, and then the only difference from 7-8 or 9-10 will be DFM or no DFM, much easier to pattern.


Thanks for the info! I am trying to figure out an issue on deceleration between 2nd and first gear so I guess even if I have it in L7 or L6 when I’m coming to a stop DFM might still engage in the lower gears it seems huh?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Nope, it’ll be totally off.


I just meant for the purposes of comparison, you can cruise around at just about any speed (assuming it’s not too fast) and literally use the + & - to turn DFM on and off instantly without affecting anything else. I found that helpful to learn the DFM tendencies and the NVH it adds at different speeds.
 

BUT if you’re just trying to check a deceleration vibration, obviously you don’t have to bother with that necessarily. Just leave it in L7 and it won’t be dropping cylinders. You can drive a route in L7, click it up to L8, drive the same route and compare.

  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hey folks, I have been experimenting with my 2019 and I want to add some observations to this thread, some which have already been confirmed but adding it anyway. 

I installed a cutout so now I can hear everything that the engine is doing, which is wild how many variations of sounds it makes. 

Driving in L7 does in fact disable DFM on all gears up to 7. Once you set it to L8 then DFM turns on right away, for example if you're cruising at 40 or 60 in L7, then change it to L8 or move the shifter to Drive, you will hear it change the tone to the helicopter sound that's been mentioned before on louder exhausts. This week iv driven in mostly L7 and let me tell you, it makes the truck much funner to drive. 

I also have been messing with the sport mode in combination with L7 and I have noticed that when in sport mode the torque converter takes longer to lock up, I think it still locks at the same speeds but it takes longer before it engages while in normal mode the converter wants to lock almost all the time, even at very low speeds vs. the traditional 40mph lock up on older cars/trucks. 

In regards to fuel consumption I do not have enough data yet but from what I can see, letting it go into 8th gear and turn on DFM does give you better milage (the live MPG indicator goes all the way full). So moving forward if I am doing some city driving with a lot of stop and go, i'll be putting it in L7. If I am going to cruise on the highway i'll leave it in drive or L8. If I want to have fun, L7 and sport mode. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 1/7/2020 at 4:03 PM, MacLaren said:

One thing for sure, when foing down a steep mountain that downhill assist button does great!

I prolly would worry with a manual shifting unless I was carrying a heavy load. 

Next time, try it in auto and tow/haul and see what you think...

 

Posted (edited)
On 2/24/2019 at 11:25 PM, Robwcormack said:

My gear shifter has plus and minus buttons for what seems like should allow you to manually shift gears.  Problem is, they dont do anything at all when pressed.  Anyone got any ideas of why?

Did you ever find out why the plus or minus does not work? I have a 2020 Sierra and mine does not work. I have an appointment with dealer.

Edited by John Ladolcetta
Posted

If he didn't, it's gonna be a real short and embarrassing appointment at the dealer...?

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

anyone else wish GM would let you know what gear your in like RAM and Ford do in the gauge cluster ? 

 

Like 1 through 10 i mean. I mean its not a real world problem as some of you say but i just think it would be a small detail that customers would appreciate. 

Posted
anyone else wish GM would let you know what gear your in like RAM and Ford do in the gauge cluster ? 
 
Like 1 through 10 i mean. I mean its not a real world problem as some of you say but i just think it would be a small detail that customers would appreciate. 

Yes, I miss this from my F150.
Posted
15 hours ago, davester said:

Did you shift into "L" before trying the buttons?

Yes. I shifted in L as stated in owners manual. Then hit plus and minus. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...