2016 Lift it or List it?

[ShamrockShooter]

I live in the salt belt of NY and my 2016 Z71 has seen 3 winters and 35k. I was thinking of doing a 2 inch lift and heading to the rust proofing outfit I should have used when the truck was new. My undercarriage looks pretty bad, think it's too late?

 

What do you think? Should I Lift it, or List it for sale and buy a 2019 Trail Boss (and head straight to the undercoat shop).

 

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[royalkangaroo]

I’ve seen better, I’ve seen worse.  I bought a 2010 with 33k miles that was in similar shape at the time.  It’s all cosmetic on the frame, I had it recoated.

 

You’re right though, if you start from day 1, it works out better.  I have a 2015 now with 45k miles that I’ve touched up annually and washed religiously throughout the winter and the frame looks nearly brand new.  (My shocks look similar to yours though)

 

As for buying new, I’d say if you love your current truck, clean it up and lift it.  It’ll take some work.   If you want to spend the cash on a new one, go that route.  

 

 

[ShamrockShooter]

I am starting to consider a lease. If I take the $800 bucks I would spend on rust proofing, and the $1200 on an extended warranty and put that towards a lease, then just get a new truck every three years. I only drive about 12k a year. The salt is just so damn corrosive and I live in a lake effect snow area so our roads get salted pretty much daily from the end of November to the end of March.

But I do like the 2016 I have for the most part and in another couple years I will own it. I am kind of at a point of no return. I need to invest some cash to keep the frame from rotting away, and lift it up a bit, or just dump it.

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[TXGREEK]

I am starting to consider a lease. If I take the $800 bucks I would spend on rust proofing, and the $1200 on an extended warranty and put that towards a lease, then just get a new truck every three years. I only drive about 12k a year. The salt is just so damn corrosive and I live in a lake effect snow area so our roads get salted pretty much daily from the end of November to the end of March. 

But I do like the 2016 I have for the most part and in another couple years I will own it. I am kind of at a point of no return. I need to invest some cash to keep the frame from rotting away, and lift it up a bit, or just dump it.

 

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If you’re already 3years into and whether a couple years left it’s still now showing more equity. 2 or 3 more years and you’ll get at least $20k+ for it well maintained. If you’re interested in keeping it for a long term then obviously worth lifting it but only if you’re happy with it. Leasing has its benefits and negatives, leasing is like you’re renting it and should never do any mods not worth it cause it’s not yours and positives would be tax deduction for business.

If you’re interested in keeping it which I would (almost paid off) then I’d put on a badass lift like a CST 4.5” lift which doesn’t widen your track width or turning radius and allows you to keep your stock wheels and up to 35” tires. My CST 4.5” Lift is an excellent daily driver. Being in snow/salt, make sure you maintain it very well so as not to corrode and you’ll be a very happy camper.

 

 

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[ShamrockShooter]

For fuel economy sake I would like to stay with a 2 inch lift or even just a Bilstein 5100 front level and keep my current midnight edition rims and duratacs, also have 22 inch gm rims with 285/45s. It would be pretty similar to a trail boss which is why I am considering the trade in

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[SS502]

The thing with rust is that you can almost never be sure you caught it all, they call it a cancer for a reason. I am so thankful to live where they do not salt the roads and even while living on the Gulf coast, I haven't had to deal with rust. Love Bug's acidic body fluids is about as bad as I get and if you catch it (wash) early enough, the paint will survive...wait for even a weekend and say good bye to your paintjob.

[Donstar]

If I was in your situation, I would choose to keep your current truck.  Have it levelled and get a wheel alignment.  Then,  look for a shop that specializes in rust proofing and get your under carriage protected.  Your truck has many good years left!  Your creative financing plan will find you in a new truck, but in a few years you will be better off owning an older 2016 than owning no vehicle.

[TXGREEK]

For fuel economy sake I would like to stay with a 2 inch lift or even just a Bilstein 5100 front level and keep my current midnight edition rims and duratacs, also have 22 inch gm rims with 285/45s. It would be pretty similar to a trail boss which is why I am considering the trade in

 

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Mpg’s aren’t affected by adding the lift more than max one mile loss, fuel loss is affected by tire size and weight. Your in a tough situation especially with all that rust issues. Maybe just lease an AT4 6.2, already 2” taller from factory, two birds with one stone.

 

 

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[SS502]

1 hour ago, Donstar said:

If I was in your situation, I would choose to keep your current truck.  Have it levelled and get a wheel alignment.  Then,  look for a shop that specializes in rust proofing and get your under carriage protected.  Your truck has many good years left!  Your creative financing plan will find you in a new truck, but in a few years you will be better off owning an older 2016 than owning no vehicle.

Do it now while vehicle ownership is still possible.

[Nitrousbird]

What is your lease rate?  I'm talking about the low advertised BS payment with $3000 down.  

 

I looked at lease rates when buying mine for all brands of trucks. They were awful when you actually did the math...at least on any truck I was interested in. 

[TXGREEK]

What is your lease rate?  I'm talking about the low advertised BS payment with $3000 down.  
 
I looked at lease rates when buying mine for all brands of trucks. They were awful when you actually did the math...at least on any truck I was interested in. 

That’s just, all leases are not created equal. Depending on your credit score you can get a loaded 60k truck on a pretty good payment and I’d make sure to say it up front you want 18k miles not 10-12k cause it cheaper to add it at signing rather then at turn in cause you’ll get charged more then.


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[xax]

Leasing. The never ending car payment 

[ShamrockShooter]

Often it is about justifying a purchase to the wife/boss. If I have a three year lease, I would have a reason to get a new truck every three years. Otherwise she is just going to question why I need a new truck. Life is short and I enjoy researching and buying vehicles.

It all goes back to the original question if the road salt corrosion makes it worth while to try and keep a truck long term where I live. My stepfather's 2008 Silverado has seen 10 winters and I know I could poke holes through his frame if I push hard enough with a pencil. The collision shop at my dealer has a pile of rusty Toyota truck frames that were swapped out.

I have about $11k to $12k in equity now plus a sales tax credit of $2250 if I traded in. If I pay the truck off in 3 years it will have 80k miles and been through 6 winters. I am guessing it would be worth $15k to $17k on trade plus a sales tax credit of about $1,200.

So the numbers are close enough to consider trading in for a new purchase or lease if I can get the right deal.

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[dieselfan1]

List it

Go lease a new one.

 

[Nitrousbird]

1 hour ago, TXGREEK said:

That’s just, all leases are not created equal. Depending on your credit score you can get a loaded 60k truck on a pretty good payment and I’d make sure to say it up front you want 18k miles not 10-12k cause it cheaper to add it at signing rather then at turn in cause you’ll get charged more then.

 

Paying ANYTHING up front (down payment, damage allowance, or anything else not rolled into the monthly lease payment) is a risk. Anything you put down in a situation where the vehicle is totalled is lost. 

 

The plus side is not paying a money factor (interest) on that amount.  Leases with high money factors result in high rates can actually be decent if it is a cash up front lease.  Some leases also allow MSD's (multiple security deposits) which can lower your money factor but ties up that cash during the lease period.  Obviously credit will impact your MF as well.

 

Region of the country and lender will also impact the MF and residual value.  Sometimes the best lease rate isn't from the manufacturer.  

 

Way too many (actually most) people lease without any real clue how a lease works. This is why dealers love a lease...more profit to them (less discounts on the purchase price), lower payments are easier to sell and you have a return customer in a couple of years.