Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
4 hours ago, LDM said:

Received mine yesterday and it works great.  Fits without any issue and is straight up and down on my truck.  Should make the next oil change go a lot smoother.

How difficult was it to get the old one off the valve cover, and did you end up breaking any of the plastic off that you struggled to find among the rockers?

Posted
12 minutes ago, ksiesel said:

How difficult was it to get the old one off the valve cover, and did you end up breaking any of the plastic off that you struggled to find among the rockers?

Not sure what you mean, there wasn't any old tube on my 2018.  Just the oil cap, which all I did was take that off, install the fill tube, and then put the oil cap on the top of the fill tube.  It ended up looking just like the pictures posted earlier in this thread.

Posted
2 hours ago, Nanotech Environmental said:

Did the cap off your truck fit, or did you need to get the newer cap as well?

Same on my 2018.  No fitment issues at all with the 2019+ tube on the rocker cover or the oil cap on the tube.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi all, first post here but been lurking for a while!  Just put on the 19+ fill tube myself and have to say it's a little sloppy fit.  It will wiggle around some and I can see the blue o-ring easily and somewhat concerned it is not going to keep trash from entering the valve cover.  What's some of yours looking like?  Going to try to take a look at a 2020 we have a work to see if it compares.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 2/27/2019 at 11:05 PM, cheyenne383 said:

This was my thoughts as well

I'll post up when I do it... being in the middle of nowhere typically means even my simple projects take some time to get off the ground. I'll shoot for an April update. :uhoh:

Were you able to make the 2019 oil filler tube work for your 2016 5.3? I've searched all over and can't verify it. I just changed oil yesterday and went through 4 different funnels, two flex, two regular, a measuring cup, and tried to hit the hole with a 5qt Mobil 1 bottle?. The flex went in the hole but was so slow it took 20 minutes to get 8 quarts in. Ridiculous! A job that used to take 10 minutes now takes 30 minutes by the time you dribble oil in at a snail's pace then clean everything up trying multiple devices, drips, runs, etc. WTF were they thinking? I don't want to have to carve something out with a Dremel, but may have to. Anybody else have any luck with the one mentioned?

 

Having just posted that, just saw the newest posts about it working. Great news!

Edited by Shevyowner
Add info
Posted
On 5/3/2020 at 2:08 PM, Chev85 said:

Hi all, first post here but been lurking for a while!  Just put on the 19+ fill tube myself and have to say it's a little sloppy fit.  It will wiggle around some and I can see the blue o-ring easily and somewhat concerned it is not going to keep trash from entering the valve cover.  What's some of yours looking like?  Going to try to take a look at a 2020 we have a work to see if it compares.

Mine does move around a bit in the grommet but I think that is just because the grommet is rubber instead of a harder plastic material.  I can't see the o-ring on mine unless I move it around.  I don't think any debris is going to be able to enter past the o-ring on mine.  But I also haven't been able to try using it at all because I haven't had to add any oil since my last oil change.  I'll see how it works out next oil change but just the fact that I'll be able to use a larger funnel makes it well worth it to me.

Posted

Mine moves excessively, so much I have a rag wrapped around the joint and will be pulling the valve cover off soon to remove the extended fill tube.  I have a feeling that it'll screw directly into the aluminum valve cover tightly, but at this point I'm thinking I will just leave it as it was.  I noticed the coil cover was a little tricky to get off now but it does clear the tube.  I noticed the coil cover on the 2019+ are a little different to allow easier removal.  I actually ordered a used valve cover off ebay from a totaled 2017 just to see how things look.  Waiting to pull my valve cover until a few more under hood parts show up so I can do all the work at once.  I'll try to get some pictures if anyone's interested, but I'd recommend against this addition, and double check what you have if you already done it.  Kinda stinks having to remove the valve cover just to get this tube off, which I admittedly knew before hand!

Posted

I thought I'd add to this thread, since I've been following it recently, and decided to purchase the "Newer 2019+" fill tube. I saw where the current cap opening would be an issue for adding oil. I ordered the Fill Tube here . It took about 3-4 weeks to get, so it may have been affected by the covid19 shut downs. Anyway, it came in & I installed it today. As mentioned before, it's not "stiff" tight in the existing opening and can be wiggled around. However, once in (it clicks to a snap lock" you can't get it back off or at least I didn't force it, as I didn't want to break it. The existing Cap fits fine, so I think all is well. Here's my pictures. 

20200526_172242.jpg

20200526_172251.jpg

20200526_172258.jpg

20200526_172334.jpg

20200527_171452.jpg

20200527_171511.jpg

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Since I wasn't happy with the fitment on mine, I went all the way with things.  Pulled the valve cover, removed the short tube from the factory and installed the 2019+ tube and coil cover.  All is well again!  BBK shorty headers fell on too!

IMG_9321.JPG

IMG_9322.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted
17 hours ago, Chev85 said:

IMG_9699.JPG

Larry, could you post the P/N's you had to buy?

Posted

Certainly;

Filler Tube - 12691785

Upper Insulator - 12674122

Valve Cover Gasket - 12619787

 

I did not need the valve cover gasket.  They're reusable but for $4.00 it was good insurance to have it.  I cleaned the head surface and gasket, which stayed in the valve cover, with a shop towel and rubbing alcohol.  Set it back on carefully and did a two step torque sequence from center bolts out.  44 in lbs first pass, 89 in lbs second pass.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Chev85 said:

Certainly;

Filler Tube - 12691785

Upper Insulator - 12674122

Valve Cover Gasket - 12619787

 

I did not need the valve cover gasket.  They're reusable but for $4.00 it was good insurance to have it.  I cleaned the head surface and gasket, which stayed in the valve cover, with a shop towel and rubbing alcohol.  Set it back on carefully and did a two step torque sequence from center bolts out.  44 in lbs first pass, 89 in lbs second pass.

Maybe I don't understand what you did. Why did you pull the valve cover? Did you have to remove or install something in the valve cover to install the new Filler tube? Does this make it sturdier? I just removed the old filler cap & twisted/ screwed the the filler tube in the existing VC. It does wiggle some & I can see the top of the blue O-ring seal. couldn't you just replace the new plastic cover without removing the VC?

Posted

Originally, I came across this post about the newer filler tube fitting right on our trucks.  I ordered one since it was cheap and liked how it made adding oil easier but also wanted it for later adding a catch can and not fighting the hoses to get to the oil cap.  When I put mine on, it was a very loose fit and had me questioning if water and/or dirt could seep past the o-ring entering the engine.  I noticed that there is already a short plastic fill tube on our trucks.  The oil cap does not screw directly into the aluminum valve cover.  You can see the new tube screwed into the short original tube in my one picture above.  With the locking tabs on the fill tube(s) you can either twist them off till you break the tab and try to fish out the broken piece that falls into the rocker area, or remove the valve cover and use a small pick to release the tab.  After I got mine all apart, it is was a much tighter fit while screwing the long tube directly into the aluminum valve cover.  Doesn't move at all and seals nicely.  Since I struggled a little getting the original plastic coil cover off over the long tube, I ordered the 2019+ plastic cover as well.  Fits like a glove, and with the gusset on the long tube at the elbow, I'm pretty certain the original coil cover would not even fit with the new tube screwed directly into the valve cover.

 

Does that make any sense?  I'm trying to describe it well but feel like I'm rambling!  Compare my last picture to the others above. You can see how the fill tube is sitting lower and how it fits with the new plastic cover that is notched out instead of just a hole.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 2,836 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...