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Silverado won't consistently power trailer's rear camera


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Let us know how you make the Haloview filter fit.  It looks way too big to fit through the opening for the camera wires, at least on my trailer. The Voyager blunt-cut version below that I installed was a real chore to get to fit through the small hole and then angle in to the narrow insulation-filled cavity of the trailer wall (also below). I doesn't look like that would be possible with the Haloview.

 

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The haloview has two screwholes and double stick tape with it.  Apparently it is intended for surface mount.  Im going to call them to verify.  I will likely wrap the connectors with heat shrink tubing to keep as much water out as possible.

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1 hour ago, Ezekiel2517 said:

The haloview has two screwholes and double stick tape with it.  Apparently it is intended for surface mount.  Im going to call them to verify.  I will likely wrap the connectors with heat shrink tubing to keep as much water out as possible.

Wow! I think I'd cough up another $20 and buy one that can be installed in the trailer wall. Just a thought.

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31 minutes ago, VDR928 said:

Here is the Furrion adaptor (goes into 7 way).  We love it.   

58385684880__400851E7-1356-40D7-8E91-9E7F7532C2BA.jpeg

 

Some of us were wondering about this one when we saw the prototype. The concern was that it could effect trailer monitoring. Do all aspects on the trailering app still work okay? Do you still have operational trailer theft detection, etc.?

 

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If anybody's interested here's a Before and After electrical comparison when using the ASA -"at the camera" fix to the Trailer light circuit:

 

(A) Before:   The oscilloscope is confirming that the  Trailer Light Circuit when powered from a late model GM truck 2019 and greater - is using PWM on the Circuit.   The Voltage drops from 14.2 V  to Zero  every 10 milliseconds for a duration of about 1 millisecond (i.e. the voltage is at Zero for 1 millisecond).  

 

It is this voltage dropout that is causing the camera to drop the wireless video signal. 

1286181959_Oscilloscope1.thumb.JPG.628fb64dd78bcb614fe930872afb0aa9.JPG

 

(B) After: Voltage holding steady at 14.2v  w/ some slight jitter but virtually no drop at all.

 

1885639167_Oscilloscope3.thumb.JPG.60f329947c438510121159d32b7dc861.JPG

 

duke3k

 

 

Edited by duke3k
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Awesome!  Thank You.

 

So, can I use the  ASA version with the bare leads to power my Furrion camera?  Just basically splice into the camera plug wiring on the trailer?   The Furrion adaptor looks too bulky for me...

 

I just purchased a travel trailer today and was bummed to find out it didn't work on the camper- all the tests I did prior (off the trailer) the camera worked flawlessly.

Edited by Limelight
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I used the Voyager ASA power adapter with my new Halo View MC7108 wireless camera and it worked fine.  As long as your  Furion Camera or whatever camera your using has similar power requirements it should work fine.  And yes you just splice / wire it in line. + to +, - to -.  

 

Link to ASA power adapter.  

Edited by duke3k
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21 hours ago, duke3k said:

I used the Voyager ASA power adapter with my new Halo View MC7108 wireless camera and it worked fine.  As long as your  Furion Camera or whatever camera your using has similar power requirements it should work fine.  And yes you just splice / wire it in line. + to +, - to -.  

 

Link to ASA power adapter.  

Yup- that's what I ordered!  Thank You.

 

If this adapter doesn't work, I think I'll put the trailer running light wires on a switched relay with power from the trailer battery. 

 

This will be much simpler though.

 

Thanks again!

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Maybe your ground isn't hooked up on the trailer.  These trucks have a hard time getting power back to the trailer through the hitch.   Mine would reset and show connected/not connected.  Took the ground wire on the trailer and made it grounded to the harness, so it completes the path not through the hitch.  Worked for mine anyway. Good luck.

Ken

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45 minutes ago, GMmaniac said:

Maybe your ground isn't hooked up on the trailer.  These trucks have a hard time getting power back to the trailer through the hitch.   Mine would reset and show connected/not connected.  Took the ground wire on the trailer and made it grounded to the harness, so it completes the path not through the hitch.  Worked for mine anyway. Good luck.

Ken

@GMmaniac    That might be the issue for some of the older models , but we are  pretty confident it’s the pulse width modulation (pwm) that GM is now using on the trailer running lights circuit. See the discussion a couple of posts back.  

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