Jump to content

factory subwoofer

Stovespipe
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 344
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Wakezilla
Wakezilla

Ok, I finally got my system installed. I have a 2019 Silverado Crew Cab with Bose.  It hits hard and deep and clean.  I did not want to fork out the $1500 for the JL Stealthbox with 2 of their thin 12

hardloaf
hardloaf

I've uploaded video to youtube - I think this works better than pictures. GM Sub, installed

GMC-AT
GMC-AT

I had my own made...fits right inside the factory box under seat.  Just factory BOSE with a little extra 12in kick in the back.     

Posted Images

ausomecasey Enthusiast

ausomecasey

Posted
Posted (edited)

Do you have to get anything programmed at the dealer when installing into a Bose system? I saw this, and it made me wonder...Thanks!

43F6D461-E47F-4D38-9E6A-D3B69F635D7A.jpeg

Edited by ausomecasey
Dinozero Enthusiast

Dinozero

Posted
Posted
On 4/28/2020 at 1:21 AM, ausomecasey said:

Do you have to get anything programmed at the dealer when installing into a Bose system? I saw this, and it made me wonder...Thanks!

43F6D461-E47F-4D38-9E6A-D3B69F635D7A.jpeg

I wanna know about this too.

OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Dinozero said:

I wanna know about this too.

 

On 4/28/2020 at 12:21 AM, ausomecasey said:

Do you have to get anything programmed at the dealer when installing into a Bose system? I saw this, and it made me wonder...Thanks!

43F6D461-E47F-4D38-9E6A-D3B69F635D7A.jpeg

Just sounds like a “we want you to pay us to install it” deal, since that notice only appears on the GM‘s own store and not any of the other vendors. Most people here have installed it themselves, including myself. I’ve never gotten anything programmed for it. Never heard of anyone else getting anything programmed for it either. I wouldn’t think much of that.

  • Thanks 1
ausomecasey Enthusiast

ausomecasey

Posted
Posted
37 minutes ago, OnTheReel said:

 

Just sounds like a “we want you to pay us to install it” deal, since that notice only appears on the GM‘s own store and not any of the other vendors. Most people here have installed it themselves, including myself. I’ve never gotten anything programmed for it. Never heard of anyone else getting anything programmed for it either. I wouldn’t think much of that.

Cool, thanks! Mine arrives Monday, and I’m looking forward to getting it installed. Gonna try it myself. I picked up the bass knob today. 

Slakka New Member

Slakka

Posted
Posted
On 4/23/2020 at 5:13 PM, BigMick2020 said:

Here are two different Kicker controls for the Sub, can anyone tell me which one to get......or does it not matter?

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NS9YV1Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AJYZ22R6PYFT6&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BDCAWUG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1WB27YBH8JJWL&psc=1

Kicker Control.jpg

Anyone know which one for Part # 19417164 or does it matter?

Slakka New Member

Slakka

Posted
Posted
On 3/19/2020 at 2:55 PM, OnTheReel said:


Yeah, the Bose sub must be all of 4”. I guess short of redoing the whole system this was probably the best option. 

 

Anyway, think I finally got this thing cracked. 

 

Anyone who has tried it without the knob knows that the knob is both a bass killer, but it also makes the thing usable. So I’ve hacked it.

 

The knob is is just a 20k potentiometer with a 500 ohm resistor that forms the base resistance of the circuit. 

 

The pot increases resistance from there, up to a maximum of roughly 20.5k ohms (20k pot plus the .5k resistor). So again, at the low bass setting, the amp reads a resistance of 500 ohms from the aux cable, and at max bass 20.5k.

 

Keeping this in mind, I had an idea. Using some little 10k resistors I had lying around in the parts bin, I formed a test. I removed the stock 500 ohm base resistor and replaced it with a 10k resistor. This effectively makes the baseline (knob all the way down) resistance 10k. That 10k measure on a stock knob is about midway. But the big thing was that the max was now up to 30k instead of 20. 

 

And in the new max position, sure enough, the amp gain increased beyond what the original max would have been with the unaltered knob. 

 

Taking it a step further, I soldered TWO 10k resistors in series and brought the baseline to 20k. Keep in mind that used to be roughly the max the amp would see from the knob, and now it is the minimum. So with the knob all the way down, it behaves as it did with the knob all the way up previously. And beyond that, the ceiling is now 40k. With this setting, I was able to reduce the bass on the head unit further and still really get some major production out of the sub.
 

B2805BB3-FE26-4824-B23F-1F324DFDE965.thumb.jpeg.c26a08867443d08ae7732ed3eb7542a1.jpeg

 

I downloaded an sound app to confirm that the amp was reading and responding to the new range from the modded knob. But of course the difference was also easy to hear. 
 

Attached are screen shots of the same part of the same song, same volume, same test location, same head unit EQ. Nothing too scientific but something to look at. One is taken at the low end on the modded knob (equivalent to the max of the stock knob) and the other at the new high of 40k, or double what the old one would have been. Measures about a 10db difference right near the sub. 
 

6772DCF0-ACEF-4A52-995A-C5B92AF30506.thumb.png.af9d8f2c30cece56790bcde2fc7446ad.png0FBC4E35-273E-43ED-A04D-E8D62BBA11B8.thumb.png.9f8249ac60cdda14aa8981ceca398369.png

 

 

You happen to have a Youtube how to for this mod? 

BigMick2023 Enthusiast

BigMick2023

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Slakka said:

Anyone know which one for Part # 19417164 or does it matter?

I got the 46CXARC unit ($29.95) for my 19417165 Sub and it worked fine......pretty sure it would work for yours also. 

Edited by BigMick2020
MizzyFanBoy New Member

MizzyFanBoy

Posted
Posted

Alright! I have a 2019 High Country with the Bose. The dealer had the truck for 7 hours but whatever. Kicker bass knob was routed myself and plugged in by the dealer. I left the lot sorely disappointed in the bass level. Honestly, max everything it wasn’t much deeper than the stock Bose system. Then I recalled a memory from this thread about the 6 switches on the amp. Mine was 1, 4, 5, 6 up and 2, 3 down. I went all up and BOOM.. there she was! What a complete change those switches made. I tried 1-5 up and 6 down and I’m on the fence as to which I like best. I no longer need bass settings maxed. Finally! 

BigMick2023 Enthusiast

BigMick2023

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, MizzyFanBoy said:

Alright! I have a 2019 High Country with the Bose. The dealer had the truck for 7 hours but whatever. Kicker bass knob was routed myself and plugged in by the dealer. I left the lot sorely disappointed in the bass level. Honestly, max everything it wasn’t much deeper than the stock Bose system. Then I recalled a memory from this thread about the 6 switches on the amp. Mine was 1, 4, 5, 6 up and 2, 3 down. I went all up and BOOM.. there she was! What a complete change those switches made. I tried 1-5 up and 6 down and I’m on the fence as to which I like best. I no longer need bass settings maxed. Finally! 

I just installed the Kicker system last week and agree it's a bit weak......

I have not yet checked the switches......how do you access them? Do I need to remove the sub to get to it?

 

Thanks for the information....

MizzyFanBoy New Member

MizzyFanBoy

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, BigMick2020 said:

I just installed the Kicker system last week and agree it's a bit weak......

I have not yet checked the switches......how do you access them? Do I need to remove the sub to get to it?

 

Thanks for the information....

Pop the 4 screws off on the amp. On the back of the amp there is a rubber plug. The switches are in there. It’s my understanding that it comes from the factory preset with 2 and 3 down. 

  • Like 1
BigMick2023 Enthusiast

BigMick2023

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, MizzyFanBoy said:

Pop the 4 screws off on the amp. On the back of the amp there is a rubber plug. The switches are in there. It’s my understanding that it comes from the factory preset with 2 and 3 down. 

Great.....going to take a look this weekend. 

Thanks for the awesome fast response!

  • Thanks 1
ausomecasey Enthusiast

ausomecasey

Posted
Posted
36 minutes ago, MizzyFanBoy said:

Alright! I have a 2019 High Country with the Bose. The dealer had the truck for 7 hours but whatever. Kicker bass knob was routed myself and plugged in by the dealer. I left the lot sorely disappointed in the bass level. Honestly, max everything it wasn’t much deeper than the stock Bose system. Then I recalled a memory from this thread about the 6 switches on the amp. Mine was 1, 4, 5, 6 up and 2, 3 down. I went all up and BOOM.. there she was! What a complete change those switches made. I tried 1-5 up and 6 down and I’m on the fence as to which I like best. I no longer need bass settings maxed. Finally! 

Nice! I ended up settling one 1-5 up, 6 down. It seemed to be a bit smoother sounding.

MizzyFanBoy New Member

MizzyFanBoy

Posted
Posted
32 minutes ago, ausomecasey said:

Nice! I ended up settling one 1-5 up, 6 down. It seemed to be a bit smoother sounding.

 

 

 

I’ll keep messing with the switches a bit and test it out over a week or so on each. But I definitely recommend either of those 2 options 

BigMick2023 Enthusiast

BigMick2023

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just took the Kicker amp out this morning and changed it as recommended to all up except #6......

Very nice improvement and I feel much better about the Kicker purchase now. 

 

Thanks for the recommendations, guys!

 

Stock setup.....

IMG_4759.jpeg

Edited by BigMick2020

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 479 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...