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factory subwoofer


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On 7/2/2020 at 10:56 AM, BigBird said:

Yep, I turned my head unit down to 0 and the remote knob is in the middle, I think that's a good starting point depending on the music. My sub is 2 ohms as well

 

How much gain did you end up needing to use on the amp?  I wasn't sure how far up I could turn the adjustment on the LOC.  Amp shows it is good at 6V on the low setting and I wanted to keep it as close to that as possible.  It sounds SOOOO much better now listening to music and being able to hear it and reduce strain on the front speakers.  It's no audiophile level system, but a vast improvement for minimal dollars.

 

When I turn the bass up to screw around on a bass heavy song, it does rattle the floor board enough to hear just rattling outside the truck, but generally I'm not listening to that type music much, especially that loud, anyhow.  But, I'm wondering if some dynamat on the floor in the back would deaden that some.

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On 8/8/2020 at 11:16 AM, AustinQuattro said:

How much gain did you end up needing to use on the amp?  I wasn't sure how far up I could turn the adjustment on the LOC.  Amp shows it is good at 6V on the low setting and I wanted to keep it as close to that as possible.  It sounds SOOOO much better now listening to music and being able to hear it and reduce strain on the front speakers.  It's no audiophile level system, but a vast improvement for minimal dollars.

 

When I turn the bass up to screw around on a bass heavy song, it does rattle the floor board enough to hear just rattling outside the truck, but generally I'm not listening to that type music much, especially that loud, anyhow.  But, I'm wondering if some dynamat on the floor in the back would deaden that some.

I turned the amp and LOC just about all the way up and have no distortion at all but I haven't really played with all the settings on the amp yet. Works real well right out the box the way it is.

 

I'm extremely happy with how it turned out considering I got a little over 400 in the whole setup

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On 5/27/2020 at 11:35 PM, OilfieldTrash78 said:

So, what’s the consensus on this?  I would like a little more thump.  I listen to mostly rock.  Is this sub worth it?  I have a 2020 AT4 with Bose

 

 

Edited by Wakezilla
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This is cool but doesn’t do anything with the  Bose speakers that don’t really have sound from the rear. I added the NAV unit, JL amp with DSP and Hertz component speakers with Audison in the dash. Sounded awesome except the NAV unit is a POS and never works properly. Back to stock Bose amp, new speakers and a JL 10. Having separate tweaters in back helps. It’s decent until another company comes out with something to take the signal to the amp besides NAVTv. Do not buy their product. They will continue to lie and say it’s an update issue. My installer did updates and set it up with RCA’s and it still Turns off for no reason 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Can anyone offer some direction on splicing for the kicker system?  I am a bit lost on the wiring...

I want to get this right.

 

I read every post on this, found a lot of helpful info. Strange that is such variability on the colors.  Yellow/black and yellow/blue for me. Thinking to go brown/yellow/black and green/yellow/blue.  I also wasn’t sure if I was too far down on the wiring...
 

Appreciate all previous posts and any new ones. 

8BC6E1AE-290F-467F-8A44-F724F35C8F5D.jpeg

5C76ACE3-92AA-4EBB-A75D-D4D4EEEFCDF9.jpeg

947B26E6-4855-4AC7-ACAA-59D7390E7942.jpeg

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17 hours ago, TSchevy said:

Can anyone offer some direction on splicing for the kicker system?  I am a bit lost on the wiring...

I want to get this right.

 

I read every post on this, found a lot of helpful info. Strange that is such variability on the colors.  Yellow/black and yellow/blue for me. Thinking to go brown/yellow/black and green/yellow/blue.  I also wasn’t sure if I was too far down on the wiring...
 

Appreciate all previous posts and any new ones. 

8BC6E1AE-290F-467F-8A44-F724F35C8F5D.jpeg

5C76ACE3-92AA-4EBB-A75D-D4D4EEEFCDF9.jpeg

947B26E6-4855-4AC7-ACAA-59D7390E7942.jpeg

I just went for it.  Works great!  Fade/Balance works as intended.  Control knob should be here Monday.


Already love this system. It’s not the system of my younger years, but it’s clean, punchy, and preserves some of the storage. 

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I just finished installing the Kicker sub in my 2020 AT4 with Bose system. I also added the Kicker CXARC control. I played around with the Kicker Amp's dip switches and decided the factory setting is good enough (1 up, 2-3 down, 4-6 up). I have my Bass EQ set to 0 on the head unit and the CXARC set in the middle. One thing to note when installing is you do not need to cut the floor mat around the sub (if I need to pull it out I will just loosen the sub box mounts and remove). I tested the sub with Dire Straits - Money for Nothing (CD on USB drive), some other Artists/Songs and Sat radio and it integrates perfectly. Setting the Bass EQ to 0 removed all most of the bass from the found doors which really make a difference.

Also on the factory under rear seat storage you have to remove, I am going to cut mine to fit up to the sub box (left side) for the right side and edge with plastic trim you can find on Amazon (need 1/16" I believe). I will cut a template from cardboard so to get a good fit when I cut it.

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Here is a pic of the modified GM under rear seat storage so to fit with the Kicker sub, I marked it with tape and cut it with a hacksaw. Also I attached the Amp with 2 sided tape so I can take out to adjust switches if needed easily instead of messing with the hard to access screws.

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14 hours ago, Randy12 said:

Here is a pic of the modified GM under rear seat storage so to fit with the Kicker sub, I marked it with tape and cut it with a hacksaw. Also I attached the Amp with 2 sided tape so I can take out to adjust switches if needed easily instead of messing with the hard to access screws.

Can’t get photos to load. 
I cut the passenger side of the storage to the sub and plan to cut a section of the drivers side to add some carpet protection where the dealer trimmed the floor mat. 
 

I haven’t connected the knob yet...it’s in USPS la la land.  I’m hoping it helps a lot.  I’m not getting the punch out of rock/metal music. Hip hop hits pretty hard, but I’m really wanting to hear that bass drum pop.  I don’t want to make any changes to the switches until the knob arrives. 

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I resized the 2 photos so they should display now. Also I believe you really need the control to get the bass pumped up. There is a good place to mount the control knob right next to the hood latch release on the driver's side (only spot that has a flange lip wide enough I could see).

20200915_124352.jpg

20200915_124541.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
Where are the dip switches that everyone is talking about. The amp on the wall or the amp attached to the sub box. Do I need to remove a cover on the amp to access?

Behind a rubber plug on the back side of the amp. You need to remove the four screws holding the amp to the enclosure, then remove the plug.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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