Jump to content

What did GM change?


Recommended Posts

Posted

So I have a 15 Sierra with the 5.3 and my friend at work has an 18 Silverado with the 5.3. What did they change on the motor? His is so quiet when its idling you can barely hear it running. My 15 sounds like an old model T idling. I just cant believe how much more quite his is.

Posted

If you have 100,000 miles and he has 20,000 miles.. that would be true for all vehicles. Either that or you got a noisy one.

Posted
2 hours ago, 15 Z71 said:

So I have a 15 Sierra with the 5.3 and my friend at work has an 18 Silverado with the 5.3. What did they change on the motor? His is so quiet when its idling you can barely hear it running. My 15 sounds like an old model T idling. I just cant believe how much more quite his is.

What is the "sound" that yours makes that is different? Wonder if you have a bad vacuum pump, or one that is going bad?

Posted

Things wear out, alternator will start making more noise over time and also make more noise if an electrical load is applied, Belt tensioners are always quieter when new, type and brand for belt being ran will very, A/C compressor age plays a role. Look at your exhaust manifolds and make sure everything is still buttoned up nice and tight, Lifters will also start to make a little more ruckus over time. Lots of factors under the hood. GM may have even changed the electric fan style.

Posted
45 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

What is the "sound" that yours makes that is different? Wonder if you have a bad vacuum pump, or one that is going bad?

Just sounds like a clicking or ticking sound. Kinda like everyone talks about the direct injection sound. It sounds like its coming from drivers side from behind wheel. Truck has 44,000 miles on it. It runs good, but it has sounded like this from day 1 when I bought it with 7 miles on it. 

Posted
1 hour ago, 15 Z71 said:

Just sounds like a clicking or ticking sound. Kinda like everyone talks about the direct injection sound. It sounds like its coming from drivers side from behind wheel. Truck has 44,000 miles on it. It runs good, but it has sounded like this from day 1 when I bought it with 7 miles on it. 

This is from the post in the troubleshooting section, So I have had my truck into Dealer on multiple occasions for what sounded like a lifter tick. This ticking noise was loudest in the morning first thing when starting engine. With the hood open it sounds like a lifter sticking and coming from under valve cover. You also can hear it through the drivers side wheel opening. Since the dealer has recently replaced all lifters I decided to go ahead and replace the vacuum pump. I purchased one from Amazon for $128.83 and a Lisle Stretch belt tool 59370 for $15.00.

ACDelco 12669488 GM Original Equipment Vacuum Pump and Lisle 59370 Stretch Belt Tool

Upon start-up the loud ticking noise is gone. I can still hear the injector noise but it is not very loud compared to this noise I have been chasing for some time now. We will see how long this new designed pump lasts. It does not look as beefy as the original but if there is no noise I will be very happy.

Posted

My 14, 16, 18 all sounded the same.  The 18 engine noise is more muffed when the shutters are closed.

 

Posted
16 hours ago, 15 Z71 said:

Just sounds like a clicking or ticking sound. Kinda like everyone talks about the direct injection sound. It sounds like its coming from drivers side from behind wheel. Truck has 44,000 miles on it. It runs good, but it has sounded like this from day 1 when I bought it with 7 miles on it. 

You should still have some powertrain warranty.  If your engine is making sounds that are inconsistent with other similar trucks then you have a legitimate reason to have it checked out at your local GM dealer.  It wont cost you anything and may put your mind at ease.  They may say "it's normal" but you'll have your concerns on record in case your engine dies a week after the warranty expires.

Posted
2 hours ago, Donstar said:

You should still have some powertrain warranty.  If your engine is making sounds that are inconsistent with other similar trucks then you have a legitimate reason to have it checked out at your local GM dealer.  It wont cost you anything and may put your mind at ease.  They may say "it's normal" but you'll have your concerns on record in case your engine dies a week after the warranty expires.

Good point. Only problem is it's a hundred dollars for them to look at it. If they find something then I dont pay it. But if they say it's fine i have to pay it.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...