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6.2L 8spd 4.10 Gears Quote


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Super chips tune and staying with 323 is his suggestion. At least that’s the way i read it. No need in tearing anybody down. 


No one was torn down, may have been an attempt to but not remotely achieved. It’s more of an inferiority complex coming out over anyone having much more, true colors came out and just shows the ridiculous amount of serious mental issues plaguing our country. I’m just tickled though that there’s an apparent groupie PM’ing about me most likely a fabrication due to obvious inferiority complex.

Good luck to the OP, please contact gear experts especially with hands on experience of 6.2 with 323’s.


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With 35's there is probably no need for a re-gear. I am on 33" E-Loads and they do take some power, but I will still up and walk away from a stock 5.3L.  Most of the gearing is accomplished in the 8+ transmission gears these days so the trucks are much less dependant on the FD ratio. If you had an old 4 speed 4L60e, then yeah I would regear. Do your lift, tires, then decide. Drive it and see if you can live with the parasitic power loss and subsequent mpg dive. If not, do your gears then. I wouldn't spend the money upfront without driving it for a month with the stock gears personally. Quote is in the right ballpark, not a cheap mod at all. 

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I have a tuned 6.2 on heavy 33's. 35's are in the next weight category (75~90lbs). Can a 6.2 pull 35's, yes definitely. Tuned even better. As good as a stock truck. no.   Just going from a 285/45 tire at 45lbs to a ridge grappler at 62lbs even with a tune was pretty noticeable. Does the truck still run good and pull hard, yes. Did it loose .5 to 1 second 0~60. yes. Mileage go down 1~2 mpg, yes. Loose handling, yes. Can you get everything back except the handling with gears? probably. Worth it to me? yeah.

 

 I would never discourage someone from getting gears when more rotational mass, or diameter is increased. Pure physics tells us that it gets you closer or ahead than stock gear depending on what ratio you go with.

 

A lot of folks consider, gears, suspension and Brakes not necessary to upgrade. I like stuff that drives and does everything well so to me it's all on the list and equally important.

 

Price depends on where you are in the country. Seems a little high, but if the gear carrier is replaced maybe not ( I here the larger gearsets over 3.73 require it) It's just an opinion but I think it's worth it with the heaver wheels to keep performance. I've never heard people who actually install gears ever regret it , with the exception of not going even larger.

 

Txgrk, with gears your truck would be a rocket. But in reality a 6.2 tuned is plenty fast for 5500lbs, even if it won't break 13's with a lift and tires.

 

OP go with what you want - just depends what is acceptable to you. Forums are always coke vs pepsi, up/down,  contrarian crap. Hate when people internet argue.

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I have a tuned 6.2 on heavy 33's. 35's are in the next weight category (75~90lbs). Can a 6.2 pull 35's, yes definitely. Tuned even better. As good as a stock truck. no.   Just going from a 285/45 tire at 45lbs to a ridge grappler at 62lbs even with a tune was pretty noticeable. Does the truck still run good and pull hard, yes. Did it loose .5 to 1 second 0~60. yes. Mileage go down 1~2 mpg, yes. Loose handling, yes. Can you get everything back except the handling with gears? probably. Worth it to me? yeah.
 
 I would never discourage someone from getting gears when more rotational mass, or diameter is increased. Pure physics tells us that it gets you closer or ahead than stock gear depending on what ratio you go with.
 
A lot of folks consider, gears, suspension and Brakes not necessary to upgrade. I like stuff that drives and does everything well so to me it's all on the list and equally important.
 
Price depends on where you are in the country. Seems a little high, but if the gear carrier is replaced maybe not ( I here the larger gearsets over 3.73 require it) It's just an opinion but I think it's worth it with the heaver wheels to keep performance. I've never heard people who actually install gears ever regret it , with the exception of not going even larger.
 
Txgrk, with gears your truck would be a rocket. But in reality a 6.2 tuned is plenty fast for 5500lbs, even if it won't break 13's with a lift and tires.
 
OP go with what you want - just depends what is acceptable to you. Forums are always coke vs pepsi, up/down,  contrarian crap. Hate when people internet argue.


I agree, gears can only help move the truck along a bit faster but what are you losing by picking up that .5-1 faster...it could be mpg’s that suffer which after doing a lift and much heavier tires it’s along with living in a 75mph plus state I don’t care to be spending more time at the pump especially when I’ve passed up the last gas station while on a long road trip. Yeah, that’s my only caution about doing upgraded gears, mpg’s while on a road trip. Currently, I’m getting approx 19-20 at 65 and 18-19 at 73-75mph at 1500 rpm. Switching gears for bigger ones will definitely raise your rpms thus burning more fuel. It’s a toss up, if you tow a lot then do it but not so if you’re just DD and long road trips with no heavy cargo.


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57 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


I agree, gears can only help move the truck along a bit faster but what are you losing by picking up that .5-1 faster...it could be mpg’s that suffer which after doing a lift and much heavier tires it’s along with living in a 75mph plus state I don’t care to be spending more time at the pump especially when I’ve passed up the last gas station while on a long road trip. Yeah, that’s my only caution about doing upgraded gears, mpg’s while on a road trip. Currently, I’m getting approx 19-20 at 65 and 18-19 at 73-75mph at 1500 rpm. Switching gears for bigger ones will definitely raise your rpms thus burning more fuel. It’s a toss up, if you tow a lot then do it but not so if you’re just DD and long road trips with no heavy cargo.


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One of the main benefits is the reduced load. Fueling is not just rpm based it's load based too. So when you lugging a heavy wheel the load is increased. With gears even though your running a higher rpm, the overall load is less. In most cases with these trucks you actually gain mpg the closer you end up to a factory ratio, or slightly higher.

 

In the older days yes, new school no, to a point you gain everywhere. Then once past that point where the rpms are just too high, yeah you start to go backwards again. running just 3~400 rpm higher vs being in a constant load condition you're better off with the rpms and less load. 

 

When people where doing this and loosing mpg it's usually with stock height wheels and higher  gears. (in cars especially). But in reality a lot of factors and variables need to be considered to get that balance. It's much easier and cheaper just to leave it, and adjust/tune for tire size so it shifts right even more importantly than a correct speedometer reading. That alone makes a pretty radical difference.

 

Also you really can't do too much to make up for the wheel weight difference vs stock. Also with gears the drive shaft speed is increased when these trucks already have a pretty low terminal speed. You almost should change the shaft to if you gear. Starting to sound real expensive to do correctly.

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Thank you all for your input. I’ve taken them all into consideration. I probably won’t be making a decision until July. If I move forward with the gears I would probably do it during the 4th of July sale in which it should be even cheaper. I’ll keep ya’ll posted.

 

 

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9 minutes ago, chevydeth said:

/105+ Thank you all for your input. I’ve taken them all into consideration. I probably won’t be making a decision until July. If I move forward with the gears I would probably do it during the 4th of July sale in which it should be even cheaper. I’ll keep ya’ll posted.

 

 

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just noticed we have almost the exact same mods with the exception of the E-85. what 35" you going to run? a hybrid/mud terrain/AT?  night and day weight difference between most AT's and a M/T. With a M/T  I would do gears for sure(pretty much anything over 70lbs per tire/110lbs+ per wheel).

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just noticed we have almost the exact same mods with the exception of the E-85. what 35" you going to run? a hybrid/mud terrain/AT?  night and day weight difference between most AT's and a M/T. With a M/T  I would do gears for sure(pretty much anything over 70lbs per tire).


Probably a MT, but I’m open.


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Funny because I don’t see a suggestion anywhere in your post. All I see is you telling the OP your mods and how fast it is
 
Let me ask it again. Where did the op ask anybody for financial advice?  Funny you wanna save the op money because when anybody wants anything less than a CST lift you’re the first to jump their shit and tell them they need to spend more money.  You can’t have it both ways TX
 
these threads wouldn’t keep going south if people would stay on subject
I think you and Grumpy bear should switch user names cause your grumpy AF all the time! Maybe go bang the wifey er Debbie Does Dallas? Why you so dang angry?
I currently have factory 17s and wish I had gears especially since I'm gonna throw on 20x10s and 305/55s.
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I think you and Grumpy bear should switch user names cause your grumpy AF all the time! Maybe go bang the wifey er Debbie Does Dallas? Why you so dang angry?

I currently have factory 17s and wish I had gears especially since I'm gonna throw on 20x10s and 305/55s.

 

Lol, there’s always going to be a few and then true colors come out. I do like Grumpalumps King Shocks too

 

 

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OP did that price come with a replacement locker, because I didn't see it on there. That price seems high to me. 

 

 

off topic but LOL'ing at how CST doesn't affect tow rating as if other lifts do. it's still early but that's probably going to be one of the dumbest things i'll hear all day

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Sure you can tow with that widened track but this is Posted on CST website
2f60f473e7bd71a7a8d973fc309f0410.jpg

You can post your proof that other lift kits state the same otherwise it’s an assumption that you can tow as per manufacturers tow load rating capacity. My yard guy claims he has a Zone lift and said his had issues with the spacers too having to replace studs etc


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uh SMH, just because it isn't posted doesn't mean it's affected. simply adding a lift doesn't change the tow rating. 

 

am I to assume that CST is NOT FMVSS No.126 (ESC system test) Compliant since they don't post it, yet Zone does? lol

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uh SMH, just because it isn't posted doesn't mean it's affected. simply adding a lift doesn't change the tow rating. 
 
am I to assume that CST is NOT FMVSS No.126 (ESC system test) Compliant since they don't post it, yet Zone does? lol


I’ve shown the proof, You’re all assumption, therefore assuming the towing capacity is not affected is not proof, the End!

Sorry OP, for going off post. I’m done here and as typical coming out of the woodwork


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