0/20 oil spec?

[bshort]

Any idea why the 6.2 oil spec is 0/20, besides the same 'ol line about that being what the engineers spec'd.  Does the DFM require it? Something else?  Or is it just CAFE?  

0/20 will shear and DI engines are known for fuel dilution.  What are your thoughts? 

[Black02Silverado]

To me it is more about CAFE then anything.  The fact that we have 8 qt sumps and the Camaro has 10qt sumps, they are compensating for the fuel dilution with a larger sump.  As for shear.  It depends on the oil used.  I'm able to run 15k miles  on our 2016 Suburban running AMSOIL's Signature Series 0w-20.  Used oil analysis results say it is safe to that point. 

 

So for me it is more on CAFE than anything.  I'm sure the engineers have factored it in on the design of the oil system since it is just more than a pump and a relief valve and is controlled by the ECM now to work with AFM and in some engines VVT.

[bshort]

1 minute ago, Black02Silverado said:

To me it is more about CAFE then anything.  The fact that we have 8 qt sumps and the Camaro has 10qt sumps, they are compensating for the fuel dilution with a larger sump.  As for shear.  It depends on the oil used.  I'm able to run 15k miles  on our 2016 Suburban running AMSOIL's Signature Series 0w-20.  Used oil analysis results say it is safe to that point. 

 

So for me it is more on CAFE than anything.  I'm sure the engineers have factored it in on the design of the oil system since it is just more than a pump and a relief valve and is controlled by the ECM now to work with AFM and in some engines VVT.

Yeah, I'm planning to run the 0/20 until the OLM yells at me.  I tow specifically with this vehicle, so we'll see.  

[Sierra Dan]

0/20 for 5.3 also.

It's all about squeezing every ounce of mileage out of these trucks.

[bshort]

2 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

0/20 for 5.3 also.

It's all about squeezing every ounce of mileage out of these trucks.

5/20 or 5/30 would probably be fine (que in the voided warranty crowd) 

[Sierra Dan]

There is a huge topic about this over on the K2 forum.

[bshort]

3 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

There is a huge topic about this over on the K2 forum.

Thanks.  I'll head over there a bit later.  

[Sierra Dan]

[OnTheReel]

Cue the “keyboard engineers” saying they know better than GM about what oil to run.

 

Sorry, as of 2014 and up, the oiling system on these has gotten a lot more complex so I just run what they tell me. Plus, modern oils are so damned good these days it’s just not worth a worry.

Edited April 18, 2019 by OnTheReel

[TXGREEK]

I’m wondering if running Amsoil Signature Series “100% Synthetic” helps with valves gumming up cause I found with Mobile One Full Synthetic Annual protection and the Amsoil Signature series both being 0W20.

Both oils were light tan in color new.

Mobile one 500 miles was black in color
Amsoil 500 miles was light tan in color

Theory would be that a 100% man made synth oil burns and carbons less than an engine oil with conventional oil. This being I’m assuming you’ll have less carbon buildup on the valves.

I’m not going to start probing my engine and taking it apart in order to test this theory but this was interesting non the less, Amsoil (visually) seems to burn and breakdown much slower. I’m currently using Amsoil in everything except the Transmission fluid as it’s only got 16k on it with zero issues.

Summer time in Texas, it gets VERY HOT, I’m going to run 5w30 and see if there’s any difference at all on mileage or the way the engine runs.


Sent from above

[Sierra Dan]

10 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

I’m wondering if running Amsoil Signature Series “100% Synthetic” helps with valves gumming up cause I found with Mobile One Full Synthetic Annual protection and the Amsoil Signature series both being 0W20.

Both oils were light tan in color new.

Mobile one 500 miles was black in color
Amsoil 500 miles was light tan in color

Theory would be that a 100% man made synth oil burns and carbons less than an engine oil with conventional oil. This being I’m assuming you’ll have less carbon buildup on the valves.

I’m not going to start probing my engine and taking it apart in order to test this theory but this was interesting non the less, Amsoil (visually) seems to burn and breakdown much slower. I’m currently using Amsoil in everything except the Transmission fluid as it’s only got 16k on it with zero issues.

Summer time in Texas, it gets VERY HOT, I’m going to run 5w30 and see if there’s any difference at all on mileage or the way the engine runs.


Sent from above

Curious to hear about your experiment TX.

Let us know if it makes the engine a bit quieter.

[Grumpy Bear]

49 minutes ago, OnTheReel said:

Cue the “keyboard engineers” saying they know better than GM about what oil to run.

 

Sorry, as of 2014 and up, the oiling system on these has gotten a lot more complex so I just run what they tell me. Plus, modern oils are so damned good these days it’s just not worth a worry.

Wow! Where would one start? Lets start with 'know better than GM'. Well skip over the inability to tell the difference between a 'keyboard engineer' and an actual Engineer. Lets go strait to LOGIC 101.

 

You want to side (trust explicitly) with GM in choosing the lubricant because 'they know better'. Okay.

 

Is this the same set of engineers that designed the AFM system you bypassed because it's a piece of junk? The same engineers that designed the cam and lifters that fail.  Oil pumps that fail. Vacuum pumps that fail. EPS that fails. Transmissions that are 'stumbling drunks'. Driveshafts that explode. Axels the wobble. The same engineers that test your failed equipment and deny your warranty claims. The guys the designed your PCV system so ineffective you put catch cans on. Those engineers? 

 

Let's move on to 'complex oiling systems'. We could argue that but it might be more productive to ask that even if that were true, and I'm not in agreement that it is, how did that change the lubrication function and interaction between the oil and the things it lubricates. Yea, the fundamental requirements are the same for babbitt bearings in your grandfathers Model T as the are in a GP bike. Provide a film thick enough and strong enough. Cool. Clean. Fight friction. 

 

Does it matter how 'good' the oil is if you insist on mistreating it, ignoring it and expecting to much from it? I haven't seen a light bulb come on yet for anyone that tells me they understand the significance of the OPERATIONAL temperature/viscosity relationship beyond what it says on the a data sheet. 

 

You want to argue that the VVT/DOD wont work properly or the engine will be damaged due to 'wrong' viscosity if any other oil but 0W20 is used but fail to grasp that a guy like me that drives the double nickel and whose bulk oil temperature is 195 F vs a guy that is towing 10,000 lbs. in the desert at 70 mph with a bulk temperature is 250 F has already EFFECTIVELY moved the viscosity FOUR SAE steps. 20W to 50W is the spread between these two temperatures to obtain the same 'running' viscosity. Yet both systems work just dandy. 

 

You know this well enough to be dismissive of 'keyboard' engineers. Let me take a WAG. I'm being mean. 

 

 

[diyer2]

K.I.S.S.= Keep It Simple Stupid.

I try not to over think things and make them complicated, makes life easier.

This is the reason I still do 3 K mile OCI.

If I run my oil temp high while towing or my trans fluid no big deal to me because I change my fluids more than most.

As far as viscosity, I use the recommended viscosity until higher mileage or oil usage goes up.

Simple.

 

 

[OnTheReel]

23 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Wow! Where would one start? Lets start with 'know better than GM'. Well skip over the inability to tell the difference between a 'keyboard engineer' and an actual Engineer. Lets go strait to LOGIC 101.

 

You want to side (trust explicitly) with GM in choosing the lubricant because 'they know better'. Okay.

 

Is this the same set of engineers that designed the AFM system you bypassed because it's a piece of junk? The same engineers that designed the cam and lifters that fail.  Oil pumps that fail. Vacuum pumps that fail. EPS that fails. Transmissions that are 'stumbling drunks'. Driveshafts that explode. Axels the wobble. The same engineers that test your failed equipment and deny your warranty claims. The guys the designed your PCV system so ineffective you put catch cans on. Those engineers? 

 

Let's move on to 'complex oiling systems'. We could argue that but it might be more productive to ask that even if that were true, and I'm not in agreement that it is, how did that change the lubrication function and interaction between the oil and the things it lubricates. Yea, the fundamental requirements are the same for babbitt bearings in your grandfathers Model T as the are in a GP bike. Provide a film thick enough and strong enough. Cool. Clean. Fight friction. 

 

Does it matter how 'good' the oil is if you insist on mistreating it, ignoring it and expecting to much from it? I haven't seen a light bulb come on yet for anyone that tells me they understand the significance of the OPERATIONAL temperature/viscosity relationship beyond what it says on the a data sheet. 

 

You want to argue that the VVT/DOD wont work properly or the engine will be damaged due to 'wrong' viscosity if any other oil but 0W20 is used but fail to grasp that a guy like me that drives the double nickel and whose bulk oil temperature is 195 F vs a guy that is towing 10,000 lbs. in the desert at 70 mph with a bulk temperature is 250 F has already EFFECTIVELY moved the viscosity FOUR SAE steps. 20W to 50W is the spread between these two temperatures to obtain the same 'running' viscosity. Yet both systems work just dandy. 

 

You know this well enough to be dismissive of 'keyboard' engineers. Let me take a WAG. I'm being mean. 

 

 

 

I’m not exactly sure what you’re arguing for, or against, but in all of that post, you’ve yet to show me any indication that running 5w30 or anything else outside of recommended will give a longer engine life. This was the root of the OP’s question and you’ve got nothing.

 

Further, your refusal to acknowledge that the oiling system is more complex than ever is just being foolish. These have a two stage oil pump, VVT and more AFM lifters than ever to run the DFM program. All of these things are based off of, and calibrated to the hydraulic properties of the recommended oil (at ALL temps). 

 

You are also now dealing with Start/Stop on these engines. Dexos gen 2 was formulated with all of these factors in mind so why run anything else? I’ll take their engineers over your speculation any day.

[wacko]

As a guy that put 190,000 miles on a 2014 6.2 this is what I found.  At around 140-150 I started seeing oil usage.  I had been using 0/20 as required up until that point.  I was able to get an additional 50,000 until the cam bearings had been worn bad enough that the shaft started squeaking and the damage had been done.  I am running this one from the start on 5/30 and my dealership agrees.  They have always done the oil changes and agree the oil is simply to thin.  Everything on the new engine is perfect with 5/30 and oil pressures are just a tick higher.  I have 11,000 miles on new engine and the idle is like glass.  AFM even seems smoother after break-in.