Jump to content

19 SILVERADO FRONT BRAKE UPGRADE

ModJunky
 Share

Recommended Posts

ModJunky Enthusiast

ModJunky

Posted
Posted (edited)

Testing the water to see if anyone is interested in purchasing front brake upgrade for 2014-2018 silverado 1/2 ton trucks or Suv. i have a source to acquire like new loaded calipers and the new rotors to make it happen and have the proper spacing requirements to make them work on your truck. I have already done this mod to my 2014 silverado and can tell you it is a very noticeable upgrade from what the oem had to offer in those years as well as a more appealing look all together. Both front calipers loaded with pads and hardware and front rotors 500.00 plus shipping to the lower 48 states. This is a drop in the bucket compared to the thousands it cost to get the Brembo upgrade through GM. message me if your interestedIMG_3009.thumb.JPG.69a69a511f6efc69c2e19ac8da7d8fc3.JPG

Edited by ModJunky
grammer
  • Like 3
  • Replies 140
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

truckmann
truckmann

All things being equal that is incorrect. Bigger rotors put the clamping force farther out from the center line for better stopping torque on the wheel, so physics show that they do stop better. It's

ModJunky
ModJunky

Testing the water to see if anyone is interested in purchasing front brake upgrade for 2014-2018 silverado 1/2 ton trucks or Suv. i have a source to acquire like new loaded calipers and the new rotors

davester
davester

"you could just redesign the oem proportioning valve  internal components"   Yup, that definitely sounds like something people with no knowledge of the design of braking systems, or the trad

Posted Images

ModJunky Enthusiast

ModJunky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

These are four piston calipers i will try to give as many pics and details as i can IMG_3010.thumb.JPG.31ee8dbc204191d5b306726e999be890.JPG

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted

Need more details. What is the rotor size vs stock? And front only what about rear, just curious.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

ModJunky Enthusiast

ModJunky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Rotor diameter is very close to the stock size the big upgrade here is the caliper itself, this is a four piston setup versus the two piston. if you need exact measurements i can get them for you but it fits the same lug pattern and with the proper spacers you just have to center the caliper on the rotor since they no longer float like the original 

ModJunky Enthusiast

ModJunky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The rear caliper does not look to have changed i have yet to source in the rear in since the pics i received from my source looked no different from my current model truck

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted

If you don't mind me asking what city of Michigan are you located? I am the waterford area but all over oakland county. 

Are you saying there is a front wheel spacer needed to clear the caliper to the rim? If so how big as I have 24x9" wheels and lowered 3/5" so spacer may be limited. 

ModJunky Enthusiast

ModJunky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I’m in waterford and no spacer for me I have 22in factory rims 

ModJunky Enthusiast

ModJunky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I had to space the caliper out from the spindle to center the caliper on the rotor no spacer needed to space the wheel out 

  • Like 1
1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted

I'm interested but first I will research it a little more and see that I can get. And powder coat options.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Todd1982 Enthusiast

Todd1982

Posted
Posted

The whole point of a big brake kit is to stop better and fill the wheel up.

 

If you still running the stock size rotor then what is the point ?

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted
The whole point of a big brake kit is to stop better and fill the wheel up.
 
If you still running the stock size rotor then what is the point ?
Yes and no. 4 piston calipers are more then twice the clamping force. And the caliper is a better material. Also the rotor is better if it is larger for heat distribution and surface space but it is also more mass to move. Pros and cons of everything. Also I would look more at brake feel under lower line pressure and fade under heavy use.
GM says 22 and bigger wheel need performance brake kit. And my 24" and power level could use wilwood huge brake kit.
If you read up on this drilled is more of a looks then performance. Big race kits are slotted or nothing. Even wilwood and bear have wrote articles on this.
I want the wilwood but if I switch to smaller wheels I would rather have this, then there is the rear issue. Can't fit 15" with slicks out back with even stock brakes. So 1320 makes a rotor and single or dual caliper kit. Some say down grade but it is more surface and clamping force.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted
What kind of spacers are required or is a direct bolt on?
He said the spacers are for the caliper mounting bolts. And this is reasonable on a dual side of rotor pistons as the alignment is key to even clamping and wear.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

SWOYER Enthusiast

SWOYER

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

He said the spacers are for the caliper mounting bolts. And this is reasonable on a dual side of rotor pistons as the alignment is key to even clamping and wear.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Yea I can read. I meant is it a few washers or machined out, a few washers i'd consider bolt on. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...