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19 SILVERADO FRONT BRAKE UPGRADE


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22 minutes ago, Rock1500 said:

Would this fit inside an 18 inch rims?

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Factory wheels on a 2019 and 2020 start at 18" so yes as long as the wheel has enough spacing to fit the wider caliper they will fit. 

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Factory wheels on a 2019 and 2020 start at 18" so yes as long as the wheel has enough spacing to fit the wider caliper they will fit. 
Then they might for for me. Would I need a special bracket to install them and would have to get matching brakes for the rear?

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22 minutes ago, Rock1500 said:

Then they might for for me. Would I need a special bracket to install them and would have to get matching brakes for the rear?

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No special brackets needed just some washers to center the calipers on the rotors. From what I've seen it doesn't look like there was much if any improvements made to the rears so no changes needed there. 

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No special brackets needed just some washers to center the calipers on the rotors. From what I've seen it doesn't look like there was much if any improvements made to the rears so no changes needed there. 
I might be interested if everything goes right tomorrow for me....

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got the new brakes installed last weekend. Everything went as expected making it a pretty easy swap. My stock wheels would not have cleared if I didn't have the spacers. They were on my truck when I bought it and don't seem to be hurting anything so I've just left them. They do seem to have better stopping power than the old setup and the pad install on this type of caliper is super easy. The pedal feel is a little better, but not as firm as I hoped it would get to. I could probably use a better flush of the old fluid though. I may try to do that later on. I have a Motive pressure bleeder, but even using that the fluid was very slow to get pushed through the lines. 

 

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I got the new brakes installed last weekend. Everything went as expected making it a pretty easy swap. My stock wheels would not have cleared if I didn't have the spacers. They were on my truck when I bought it and don't seem to be hurting anything so I've just left them. They do seem to have better stopping power than the old setup and the pad install on this type of caliper is super easy. The pedal feel is a little better, but not as firm as I hoped it would get to. I could probably use a better flush of the old fluid though. I may try to do that later on. I have a Motive pressure bleeder, but even using that the fluid was very slow to get pushed through the lines. 
 
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List of parts needed and their numbers please! This is on my list of wants!


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Here is what I ordered from Rock Auto and I got some Stop Tech SS brake lines number 950.66002 from ebay. 

The brake lines aren't really needed, but I figured since I was in there I may as well upgrade those too. The price of the brake pads was stupid, but they also came with a new pad life sensor which I didn't need. I'd bet you will be able to find pads cheaper before too long. 

 

image.png.daa1771477674fed367256eaf61b88b7.png

Edited by truckmann
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Here is what I ordered from Rock Auto and I got some Stop Tech SS brake lines number 950.66002 from ebay. 
The brake lines aren't really needed, but I figured since I was in there I may as well upgrade those too. The price of the brake pads was stupid, but they also came with a new pad life sensor which I didn't need. I'd bet you will be able to find pads cheaper before too long. 
 
image.png.daa1771477674fed367256eaf61b88b7.png


Are the rotor bolt and splash shield able to be reused?

What size washers and quantity are needed for each caliper?


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I reused the stock bolts and never even took the splash shield off. I'm not sure what size the washers are. I bought a bunch of different sizes from the hardware store but those all ended up being bigger OD washers than I wanted so I dug through my mess of extra nuts and bolts and found some that fit better. You only need 4 of them, 2 for each caliper. 

 

 

Edited by truckmann
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On 1/18/2020 at 7:14 PM, flyingfool said:

the biggest issue on this truck is the brakes system's proportioning valve 70/30 or 80/20 which is typical GM tuning,  so much brake power is not being utilized , by over driving the front rotors and under utilizing the rears. you guys are wasting money on giant brake kits, twhen the factory system is perfect, its just out of tune

 

you could just redesign the oem proportioning valve  internal components, for $20 in parts and have the same if not better performance than this oversize monster brake kit for $1000

Rofl

 

where do you think traction is under heavy braking, especially with something with a high center of gravity, especially something with a heavy forward weight bias.

 

The worst kind of advice is the kind that sounds like it’s from somebody that knows what they are talking about but they really don’t.

 

 

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23 minutes ago, truckguy82 said:

Rofl

 

where do you think traction is under heavy braking, especially with something with a high center of gravity, especially something with a heavy forward weight bias.

 

The worst kind of advice is the kind that sounds like it’s from somebody that knows what they are talking about but they really don’t.

 

 

i know what i'm talking about because i've modified many proportioning valves on the B-bodies and G-body cars.  you act as if you actually know something but it sounds as if your critique is that of one'self not of me brother . 

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2 hours ago, flyingfool said:

i know what i'm talking about because i've modified many proportioning valves on the B-bodies and G-body cars.  you act as if you actually know something but it sounds as if your critique is that of one'self not of me brother . 

Have you done it on a vehicle newer than 20 years old?  Braking systems have only changed a bunch since then, particularly with abs systems.

 

For example, with my '04 Sierra, the proportioning valve is integrated into the abs controller (2 lines in from the master cylinder, 3 lines out [2 to front, one to rear]).

I suppose I could just dremel out a random passage and hope for the best...

 

How about posting up a build thread with pics about how you changed the proportioning valve on your '16 Silverado?  Just for giggles, include how you figured out the starting and ending braking proportions.

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3 hours ago, flyingfool said:

i know what i'm talking about because i've modified many proportioning valves on the B-bodies and G-body cars.  you act as if you actually know something but it sounds as if your critique is that of one'self not of me brother . 

Yeah cars!!!!

 

Do you have any idea how much the physics of braking can change from raising the center of gravity?

 

An unloaded truck during full braking is likely carrying 90% of it’s weight on the front axle.

 

It’s like the inverse of launching a dodge demon with slicks and skinnies

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 6/12/2019 at 1:49 PM, 1SLOW1500 said:

Yes and no. 4 piston calipers are more then twice the clamping force. And the caliper is a better material. Also the rotor is better if it is larger for heat distribution and surface space but it is also more mass to move. Pros and cons of everything. Also I would look more at brake feel under lower line pressure and fade under heavy use.
GM says 22 and bigger wheel need performance brake kit. And my 24" and power level could use wilwood huge brake kit.
If you read up on this drilled is more of a looks then performance. Big race kits are slotted or nothing. Even wilwood and bear have wrote articles on this.
I want the wilwood but if I switch to smaller wheels I would rather have this, then there is the rear issue. Can't fit 15" with slicks out back with even stock brakes. So 1320 makes a rotor and single or dual caliper kit. Some say down grade but it is more surface and clamping force.

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Ummmm The clamping force is not doubled... Theoretically... the Force of a 2 piston floating caliper and a 4 piston fixed caliper are the same as long as the piston area of the floating caliper is the same as the piston area of 2 of the pistons on one side of the fixed caliper.... HOWEVER:

1) The fixed caliper is generally significantly stiffer than the floating and therefore does not deflect and consume fluid (mushy long pedal) like a floating

2) Running clearances can be tighter and therefore improves initial stroke

3) A fixed caliper has no frictional losses in the pins (because it has none) and fewer in the abutments

 

So A fixed caliper may have higher clamp loads... but only by a small amount. The BIG difference is in the caliper's overall stiffness.

Also.. If the total piston area on one side of fixed caliper is more than the total piston area of the 2014-2018 floating caliper then there will be higher clamp load per PSI of pressure

If the "effective radius" (size of the lever arm of the brake) is even a little bit bigger... then It can make a considerable difference.

Also.. I believe that the friction that goes into that caliper OEM is rated as "HH" this is VERY high friction level for a Pass Car/LT friction material...

 

 

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On 6/13/2019 at 12:07 AM, flyingfool said:

unfortunatly big brakes dont stop better, they are just more heat and fade resistant. stock is great. the smaller lighter rotors and calipers have better handling that these porky bits.. where did you source these from an ISUZU NPR 4500 HD?

 

These trucks need better brake bias in the propotioning valves, and more aggressive brake pad compounds...   unless your pulling a 14,000lbs boat or trailer this is a waste of money and time IMO

There haven't been prop valves in modern vehicles in a long long time (since virtually the dawn of ABS in the 80's for some).. They all have EBD.. Electronic Brake Distribution. The ABS system will cap the rear pressure when it detects impending wheel slip... as deceleration is increased it will drop the rear pressure and then rebuild it.. I know.. I am a brake systems engineer with 30+ years. EBD is WAY WAY WAY better and safer than prop valves on so many levels. I know exactly where those calipers come from but I ain't saying and it ain't no Isuzu :)

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