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19 SILVERADO FRONT BRAKE UPGRADE

ModJunky
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groovy_moon Enthusiast

groovy_moon

Posted
Posted
On 2/23/2020 at 11:41 AM, truckguy82 said:

You are wrong about the lever effect.

 

Think about bicycle disc brakes vs Traditional cantilever brakes. The disc brakes are all the way center and work even better

If I am wrong about the lever effect we should prbably throw out 50% of all mechanical engineering ever done... and your won't need breaker bars to lossen stuck bolts anymore... that little 4" ratchet handle they sell at Murry's will be fine.

 

They work better because the hydraulic system produces much higher force of the pads on the rotor than the rim brakes... there are material differences as well.

. 

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truckmann
truckmann

All things being equal that is incorrect. Bigger rotors put the clamping force farther out from the center line for better stopping torque on the wheel, so physics show that they do stop better. It's

ModJunky
ModJunky

Testing the water to see if anyone is interested in purchasing front brake upgrade for 2014-2018 silverado 1/2 ton trucks or Suv. i have a source to acquire like new loaded calipers and the new rotors

davester
davester

"you could just redesign the oem proportioning valve  internal components"   Yup, that definitely sounds like something people with no knowledge of the design of braking systems, or the trad

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groovy_moon Enthusiast

groovy_moon

Posted
Posted
On 2/22/2020 at 4:42 PM, truckmann said:

Yes. Direct replacement with the caveat of either wheel spacers or some grinding on the calipers for the OEM wheels to fit. So far I'm really happy I did it. 

I have a 19 Suburban... Has the same brakes as the pre '19 trucks. Looks like TONS of wheel clearance and my 18" wheels look just like the 18" wheels on 19/20 trucks... Wonder if I will have no issues cause the wheels are the same Truck -> Suburban

 

lovelessjl Enthusiast

lovelessjl

Posted
Posted



The most important thing is not to get them really hot when they are new.
 


Can you add a little detail about why this is, or the effect of them getting hit when new or not?

Not trying to disagree or anything, I just find stuff like this interesting and would like to know more.

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TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted
On 2/22/2020 at 3:42 PM, truckmann said:

Yes. Direct replacement with the caveat of either wheel spacers or some grinding on the calipers for the OEM wheels to fit. So far I'm really happy I did it. 

 

So there is grinding needed even with the OEM 20" All terrain wheels?

 

do the 19+ calipers bolt right onto the current brackets and spindles or do the brackets need to be changed as well? Are the original brake lines reused or are those new as well?

lovelessjl Enthusiast

lovelessjl

Posted
Posted

This type of caliper won't use a bracket, it will mount directly to the spindle, which seems to be a direct fit, you just need to shim the caliper so that it sits centered on the rotor.

I'm not sure if the stock brake lines will work or not, but it would be a perfect time to upgrade to a set of stainless lines anyway.

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truckmann Enthusiast

truckmann

Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, TJay74 said:

 

So there is grinding needed even with the OEM 20" All terrain wheels?

 

do the 19+ calipers bolt right onto the current brackets and spindles or do the brackets need to be changed as well? Are the original brake lines reused or are those new as well?

It would be a guess but I would assume some grinding on the outer hump of the caliper or a spacer will be needed with most OEM wheels before 2019. The new calipers bolt right to the existing spindles. The existing hoses can be used, but I chose to upgrade to SS braided. 

 

 

 

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flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted

running anything larger than 18" rims on these trucks will def inhibit braking distance, i doubt 18's fit this kit...

 

would be interesting if someone offered a Hydroboost conversion for the 1500 trucks to get rid of the extraineous vacuum pump system.  

truckmann Enthusiast

truckmann

Posted
Posted
54 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

running anything larger than 18" rims on these trucks will def inhibit braking distance, i doubt 18's fit this kit...

 

would be interesting if someone offered a Hydroboost conversion for the 1500 trucks to get rid of the extraineous vacuum pump system.  

18" will fit as far as being big enough diameter to clear the caliper. The 19/20's still have an 18" wheel option. 

 

Hydroboost is awesome. I did that conversion on my 2003 along with the bigger brakes from the 14-18 trucks. Honestly though I don't think I would bother with it on my 14 with how it feels now after upgrading to the 19+ front brakes. I have considered ditching the vacuum pump if there was a good place to tap into the engine vacuum. I have V4 mode tuned out so I think the engine vacuum would be sufficient from what I've read. 

lovelessjl Enthusiast

lovelessjl

Posted
Posted
18" will fit as far as being big enough diameter to clear the caliper. The 19/20's still have an 18" wheel option. 
 
Hydroboost is awesome. I did that conversion on my 2003 along with the bigger brakes from the 14-18 trucks. Honestly though I don't think I would bother with it on my 14 with how it feels now after upgrading to the 19+ front brakes. I have considered ditching the vacuum pump if there was a good place to tap into the engine vacuum. I have V4 mode tuned out so I think the engine vacuum would be sufficient from what I've read. 
Just tap into the pcv line on the side of the intake, easy place to tap into then just run a vented catch can out of the valley.

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truckmann Enthusiast

truckmann

Posted
Posted
57 minutes ago, lovelessjl said:

Just tap into the pcv line on the side of the intake, easy place to tap into then just run a vented catch can out of the valley.

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I'll have to look into it closer. I have a Mighty Mouse catch can on it now. 

 

 

truckmann Enthusiast

truckmann

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, lovelessjl said:

Heres a post from a guy who switched to intake vacuum

 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/230820-how-to-delete-brake-vacuum-pump-video/&share_tid=230820&share_fid=33003&share_type=t&link_source=app

 

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I've seen that one. The issue for me is still being able to use the catch can since it uses those ports. 

 

 

lovelessjl Enthusiast

lovelessjl

Posted
Posted

You could find a breather filter and put that in place of the return line, or switch to a vented catch can like the moroso version. I'd be curious how much vacuum that line holds while connected to the pcv system still.

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truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 2/24/2020 at 1:46 PM, groovy_moon said:

If I am wrong about the lever effect we should prbably throw out 50% of all mechanical engineering ever done... and your won't need breaker bars to lossen stuck bolts anymore... that little 4" ratchet handle they sell at Murry's will be fine.

 

They work better because the hydraulic system produces much higher force of the pads on the rotor than the rim brakes... there are material differences as well.

. 

Lol, ok

 

the lever effect exists, but it’s irrelevant. There is no net gain or loss of energy by using a larger disc and placing the pad on the outside. If you place a brake pad closer to the interior, you have to clamp harder, but that’s offset by the lack of rotational speed. Considering the clamping force is just a number you can pick out of a hat with an automotive braking system, it means there is no additional stopping power with larger brakes. Thus, it means the only point to having large rotors is heat absorption and dissipation. If you have to convert X joules of energy into heat and to be absorbed and dissipated by a chunk of metal, a big chunk of metal can do that more effectively.

 

In regards to bike hydraulics is just a means of energy transfer. When you pull the brake lever on the bike, you’re not going to suddenly get more clamping force because hydraulics = magic.

 

The only reason disc brakes works on a bike is because bike rims constantly bend a little bit and create a wobble. This means your brake pads need to be further away and need to travel more. With the disc brakes, they are going to stay true, which means you can reduce the amount of travel the pad has, which in turn allows you much greater mechanical advantage. When you pull the brake leaver, you pull it maybe 2 inches. 2 inches of hand travel moving the brake pad 3mm, is a whole lot more mechanical advantage than moving the pad 25mm you need for traditional brakes. You could get the same effect with hydraulics or mechanic advantage, it doesn’t matter. The hydraulic method is just a simpler way to transfer large amounts of energy and creates lighter components.

 

I mean, did you never wonder why every vehicle on the road has the braking power to lock up the brakes no problem, but for some reason sports cars have bigger brakes? Why the hell would they have bigger brakes if a honda civics brakes could easily lock up the tires.

 

heat dissipation is the only reason, not mechanical advantage

Edited by truckguy82
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