Jump to content

Help Selecting New Silverado/Sierra?

Hexa Fox

Recommended Posts

Hexa Fox Enthusiast

Hexa Fox

Posted
Posted

Greetings Gentlemen,

 

I was wondering if this community could give me thoughts on this engine? I have always said to myself that "if I own a truck, it is going to be a V8". Right now my truck is a 2007 4.8 V8 and it has been a great truck to say the least. However, I bought it from Pennsylvania some time ago and it is beginning to rust and cause me other issues. So I was  at my dealer today and saw this beautiful regular cab 4x4 Chevrolet that I was  immediately drawn to. However, I was drawn away from it equally as fast because it was the 4.3 V6. Now to be fair I am bias because I no little to nothing about the 4.3 V6 engine. Here is the truck I am talking about:

 

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/774812465/overview/

 

I was doing a little reading here:

 

https://media.gm.com/media/us/en/gm/news.detail.html/content/Pages/news/us/en/2014/mar/0307-silverado-v6.html

 

This has only made me more confused. Because this truck I am looking at runs Flex Fuel, which I know even less about and the article is talking about "EcoTec". So do I have to run Flex Fuel in it, or can I run anything and if so which fuel should I select? I have been comparing these trucks and it looks like I will get a little more horse power and a little bit better mileage in this 4.3 V6. Basically does this truck I linked to have the same engine that is so raved about in the article? 

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply
tmo Enthusiast

tmo

Posted
Posted

I have always thought the same way growing up with the duramax and multiple Tahoe’s and older 350s. Having owned both a 2015 4.3 and now a 2018 5.3 I recommend the v8. Just an all around better engine with more power. I would choose my v8 over the v6 any day, but it depends on your needs.

 

The only thing I miss about my 4.3 was the in town fuel mileage. I got 15ish driving like I stole it and that was leveled and AT tires. The stock v8 I get 12-14 depending on how I drive. Highway I couldn’t get anything over 17, however, a buddy has a v6 with the 3.42 gearing and he gets close to 20. Which is closer to the 22 I get on the highway with the v8 with 3.42 gearing. I personally think the v6 with 3.23 gearing is underpowered for a full-size truck.

 

You Don’t have to run E85, But it’s a fun option.. increase hp and tq by like 25. I always ran 87.

 

Changing oil on the 5.3 is 1000 times easier also. Ha ha. Just had my first oil change this past weekend on the 5.3

 

cr250Silverado Enthusiast

cr250Silverado

Posted
Posted

I’m pretty sure the v6 all come with 3.42 rear ends giving them a trailer tow weight of 7,000. Most 5.3 Silverados came with 3.08 and a tow rating of 6,000. I have a feeling the v6 is going to feel like it has more pep unless you find a v8 with 3.42s. I’d get a v6 if you are cool with this. Just remember you can tow more than a lot of the v8 out there... 

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

Looks like a beautiful truck!  I went from a '00 Silverado 4.8 to a '09 Sierra 5.3 to a '15  Sierra.4.3.  My current truck with a 4.3 CC 4X4 Std. bed  can do everything as well or better than my previous trucks on a lot less fuel.  GM offers engines with more power but the 4.3 will not disappoint as long as you use your truck within its specified ratings.  If you plan on towing trailers greater than 7,000 lbs with your 1/2 ton then you will need to consider a larger engine.  I tow a travel trailer with my truck (+/- 5,000 lbs) and the truck pulls it comfortably.

tmo Enthusiast

tmo

Posted
Posted
I’m pretty sure the v6 all come with 3.42 rear ends giving them a trailer tow weight of 7,000. Most 5.3 Silverados came with 3.08 and a tow rating of 6,000. I have a feeling the v6 is going to feel like it has more pep unless you find a v8 with 3.42s. I’d get a v6 if you are cool with this. Just remember you can tow more than a lot of the v8 out there... 

My WT had the 3.23. But I think every other trim level came with the 3.42. Mine didn’t have a receiver hitch so it wasn’t meant for towing also, so maybe that had something to do with it. I think my tow weight was like 5200.

 

And donstar is correct, I was never disappointed, it did everything I asked of it .. and I put it through hell. I think the hp and tq numbers are similar to the old 4.8 v8.

Hexa Fox Enthusiast

Hexa Fox

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys thanks for all the responses. I went today to check out the truck and test drove it. I must admit, I am very impressed for the truck being the 4.3 V6. The two things that I wish my truck had are power windows and cruise control and this one has cruise control so that is a plus. Another disadvantage is I just dropped a thousand dollars on tires not too long ago and this truck is definitely going to need tires.  

 

However, the guy gave me the used car salesman routine and told me how the truck is not going to last long and going to stay firm on the price. I can see the truck being highly desirable to someone, but not considering it near that price.  The truck is already five years old if you count the year when it came from the factory.  Let me guys know what you think of the price. 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

I gave about $4K less than that for my 2015 RCSB 2WD V6 with a thousand miles on the clock. I know yours is a 4X4 but it also has 18K on the clock. Just saying. It is a pretty one. 

 

As far as the motor. It is quite powerful and driven and maintained well can get better than the EPA numbers although most people don't get even close. I've run 87 pump regular in mine for about 95,000 miles. Runs great. 

Hexa Fox Enthusiast

Hexa Fox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
54 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I gave about $4K less than that for my 2015 RCSB 2WD V6 with a thousand miles on the clock. I know yours is a 4X4 but it also has 18K on the clock. Just saying. It is a pretty one. 

 

As far as the motor. It is quite powerful and driven and maintained well can get better than the EPA numbers although most people don't get even close. I've run 87 pump regular in mine for about 95,000 miles. Runs great. 

So what do you guys think I should pay for it? To be honest, my ideal figure was right around $17,500 for it. If what you guys are saying is true then I should be able to get it for around that or even less? 

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

I would not pay asking price. However, the dealership hasn't randomly affixed a price tag to this unit.  You can negotiate a better deal while still leaving them a healthy profit.  The truck you are considering also has a novelty and/or nostalgic appeal.  (Many of us "baby boomers" started off driving 6 cyl. regular cab pickups!)  This truck may sit on the lot for months due to its limited appeal or could be snapped up today because of this appeal.  I know that if I was in the region, it would be receiving my attention!    If you want it, and have the money, offer what it is worth to you. Negotiation is stressful and don't be afraid to walk away if they are being unreasonable. Walking away can also be an effective tool in your negotiations.  I would also use new tires as a final "seal the deal" offer.  

Hexa Fox Enthusiast

Hexa Fox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, Donstar said:

I would not pay asking price. However, the dealership hasn't randomly affixed a price tag to this unit.  You can negotiate a better deal while still leaving them a healthy profit.  The truck you are considering also has a novelty and/or nostalgic appeal.  (Many of us "baby boomers" started off driving 6 cyl. regular cab pickups!)  This truck may sit on the lot for months due to its limited appeal or could be snapped up today because of this appeal.  I know that if I was in the region, it would be receiving my attention!    If you want it, and have the money, offer what it is worth to you. Negotiation is stressful and don't be afraid to walk away if they are being unreasonable. Walking away can also be an effective tool in your negotiations.  I would also use new tires as a final "seal the deal" offer.  

Okay so do you have a figure that you think would be fair for the truck? The dealer that I talked to yesterday literally just called me and got pretty rude. I think he is thinking since I like the truck I am going to give them asking price. I asked him what he could do and he said we are at $23,000 which is what the asking price is. He said if I come in again they might take off a couple hundred but that is it. 

 

He is definitely a used cars salesman, when I mention better prices elsewhere he just goes back to the lifetime power train warranty which does not really turn me on too much in the first place. I have been told over and over again that they rarely ever come through on stuff like that. 

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

You are in a significantly different market than me so I can only guess.    I assume you have looked for comparable trucks  online in your state.  My strategy/guess would be to offer 3k less than asking.  ($19,900)  Hopefully this will be treated as a serious offer and should result in a reasonable counter.  If the salesman refuses to present your offer to his manager, then I'd make an appointment to see the manager in person.  If your offer is taken seriously,  some negotiation should end you up in the middle for price ($21,400) and a new set of tires. (imo)   

Imcrazy Senior Enthusiast

Imcrazy

Posted
Posted

I've had both the 4.3 and the 5.3 in a 2014 and 2016 respectively so both ECOtec motors.. I have a very strong preference for the 5.3, I had identical configurations and rear end ratios and I get/got the same MPG with my driving habits and areas of travel so the only difference for me was the $1000 up charge for checking the 5.3 box on the option list... Also whatever you pay now you'll get some of it back when you sell the truck, the market for V6 full size trucks outside of fleet use is not as strong as the V8 trucks... I would be very hard pressed to buy a V6 for a daily driver, it's just not enough power for me passing on the highway and forget about it with a trailer, that's just IMO + the driving situations I am in often warrant darn near full throttle down shift gotta move now type situations, there were many times up hill getting on the highway that the 4.3 damn near got me in a wreck because it just didn't have the beans to get up to 80 mph to merge..

Hexa Fox Enthusiast

Hexa Fox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 hours ago, Donstar said:

You are in a significantly different market than me so I can only guess.    I assume you have looked for comparable trucks  online in your state.  My strategy/guess would be to offer 3k less than asking.  ($19,900)  Hopefully this will be treated as a serious offer and should result in a reasonable counter.  If the salesman refuses to present your offer to his manager, then I'd make an appointment to see the manager in person.  If your offer is taken seriously,  some negotiation should end you up in the middle for price ($21,400) and a new set of tires. (imo)   

My father said to first make a deal with them and then ask them if they will swap out my wheels and tires. The tires on my current truck are almost brand new. I do not know if I want my same wheels though. I am thinking I would rather have the rims that have less than 20,000 miles on them. However, the tires on this truck are in pretty bad shape, I can see me replacing them in a year. So I am wondering if they will swap the tires and only the tires. 

 

Hexa Fox Enthusiast

Hexa Fox

Posted
  • Author
Posted
15 minutes ago, Imcrazy said:

I've had both the 4.3 and the 5.3 in a 2014 and 2016 respectively so both ECOtec motors.. I have a very strong preference for the 5.3, I had identical configurations and rear end ratios and I get/got the same MPG with my driving habits and areas of travel so the only difference for me was the $1000 up charge for checking the 5.3 box on the option list... Also whatever you pay now you'll get some of it back when you sell the truck, the market for V6 full size trucks outside of fleet use is not as strong as the V8 trucks... I would be very hard pressed to buy a V6 for a daily driver, it's just not enough power for me passing on the highway and forget about it with a trailer, that's just IMO + the driving situations I am in often warrant darn near full throttle down shift gotta move now type situations, there were many times up hill getting on the highway that the 4.3 damn near got me in a wreck because it just didn't have the beans to get up to 80 mph to merge..

Thanks for the input, the 5.3 V8 is definitely what I was hoping for. However, I took the 4.3 V6 out on the highway and it had no trouble accelerating whatsoever. It actually surprised me very much. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • FiLo
      5.3 / 6.2 valve covers / oil burning

      By FiLo · Posted

      Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...