Mobil 1 Extended Oil filter - use for 2 oil changes?

[Doublebase]

6 hours ago, Ozer said:

My original question would be.. Should i be buying the extended filter or just normal Mobil 1, since i dont change past 7k max.

Wondering what you guys use as filter.

I'd just buy the regular filter (PF63E). 

 

I know the question was a hypothetical regarding the Mobil 1 (keeping it for two oil changes), but here's a crazy thought...buy a Fumoto oil drain valve, use the 20,000 mile filter, and then when the oil reaches 5,000 miles, drain three quarts from the valve and replenish with three fresh quarts...and then push your drain interval out to 9,000 miles. I mean I wouldn't do it, but you'd replenish some of your add pack and the fumoto valve would make drawing three quarts easy and mess free. Plus you'd get a little more bang for your buck out of that filter.

[Nanotech Environmental]

19 minutes ago, Doublebase said:

I wouldn't do extended drains with a direct injected, cylinder deactivation, variable valve train, chain driven, truck. If it was a port injected, non AFM engine, then ok. 

 

I cant even imagine how much oil you'd burn through with one of these engines...with the Jets spraying on those deactivated cylinders...the low tension rings...the high pressure fuel blasting in those cylinders and the fuel getting into that oil. The soot buildup on the chain rollers.  The low speed pre ignition. I mean the game has changed with modern engines. When I drain the oil on my truck at 5,000, I've already added 3/4 a quart...and the oil looks dirty when I drain it. My wife's port injected Honda CRV doesn't use a drop after 6,500 miles and looks clean. I've gone 8,000 miles on it, but I won't go more than 5,000 on a direct injection engine anymore.

What if none of the things you're worrying about is actually happening?

[Ozer]

I'd just buy the regular filter (PF63E). 
 
I know the question was a hypothetical regarding the Mobil 1 (keeping it for two oil changes), but here's a crazy thought...buy a Fumoto oil drain valve, use the 20,000 mile filter, and then when the oil reaches 5,000 miles, drain three quarts from the valve and replenish with three fresh quarts...and then push your drain interval out to 9,000 miles. I mean I wouldn't do it, but you'd replenish some of your add pack and the fumoto valve would make drawing three quarts easy and mess free. Plus you'd get a little more bang for your buck out of that filter.

Haha I actually do have the valve, it sure makes it easier

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[Jh8473]

8 hours ago, Ozer said:

My original question would be.. Should i be buying the extended filter or just normal Mobil 1, since i dont change past 7k max.

Wondering what you guys use as filter.

PF 63E will work.

[muddkatt]

53 minutes ago, Doublebase said:

 

I cant even imagine how much oil you'd burn through with one of these engines

The 2015  burns a little more than 1/2 a quart on 15K miles. The 01 has always burned a quart on 15K.

I wasn't trying to stir the pot with my comments, just stating what has worked for me. The OP ask about leaving the filter for 2 changes and I personally wouldn't do that. If anything, I would change the filter and add a quart of oil. The filter is the one item that can fail and there is no way to tell if it has happened. Many years ago I knew a couple of guys that changed the filter every 3000 miles and NEVER changed the oil. Just topped it off filter changes. They would get about 150K miles out of an engine back in the 70's and 80's.

On a side note, I have 2 cans (old metal ones) of M1 from the early 80's that are unopened. The can says 25000 miles between oil changes. That was back in the 3000 miles between changes days.

I use the MI extended life oil in the 2015. Bottle says 1 year or 20K miles. At about $100.00 per oil change for the materials with the stuff, its not cheap.

[Z45]

Quote

I use the MI extended life oil in the 2015. Bottle says 1 year or 20K miles. At about $100.00 per oil change for the materials with the stuff, its not cheap.

And I new GM truck is?

[Rock1500]

Change it. Never reuse it

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[TXGREEK]

I use the MI extended life oil in the 2015. Bottle says 1 year or 20K miles. At about $100.00 per oil change for the materials with the stuff, its not cheap.

And I new GM truck is?


Amsoil 0W20 Signature Series is REAL 100% Synthetic motor oil and not that misleading Full Synthetic, Amsoil sells for $10 per quart and totally blows away Mobil1 in protection and performance. Last I check Mobil1 Annual Protection was the much more than Amsoil, it’s a no brainer. Wix makes Amsoil filters, both Wix 10255XP is and Amsoil capture small as 20 microns.





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[Grumpy Bear]

I was asked once what was worse. Dropping a rag in the dirt and then wiping my trucks paint OR wiping the dust off my truck with a dry microfiber? I changed to a K&P 35 micro stainless mesh cleanable filter some time ago. Yes, you can buy filters that strain gnat crap from a pepper shaker then once plugged it goes on bypass and washes boulders into the main feed. Ditto on a cold startup. Yep even on warm days. Straight to bypass and a good old fashion hosing of whatever has been collected by that filter. Also delays main galley pressure build several seconds. When does the majority of wear occur? Start up! High rpm like a the top of a gear blows off the valve even with a 22 psi bypass. 

 

A stainless 35 micro has an absolute rating of 35 micro on the first pass. That is .00137 inches. A 20 micro synthetic media filter such as the WIX 10255XP hasn't a PUBLISHED beta ratio but the 57045 it replaces does. WHY?  The 57045 has a 20 micro rating of 95%. .00079 inches. That's a size difference of only .00058 inches! 

 

5% can be as large as 90 micron. .0035 inches. Yea, 3-1/2 thousands. 

 

Different bypass pressure rating. Was 12-15 psi now 22 psi. But here is the thing. All hydrodynamic clearances are over .0015 and those like lifter to cam face are harder than anything that will be in your motor assuming you aren't feeding it diamond dust or silica sand. (think air filtration) 

 

I asked earlier what you guys thought filter manufactures give up to get a 20,000 mile service life from the same sized media. Answer is...………….filter efficiency. You can have one or the other but unless you have a HUGE filter area...... 

 

Use the 10255 or equivalent and change the thing at intervals that won't put you on bypass. Since I have no idea when that might be I use the K&P that will flow about 9X per square inch more liquid than any paper/synthetic media filter made and know that at my 5K OCI's the chance of opening the bypass is next to nothing even at -10 F. On my equipment that uses paper or synthetic media, 5K max. 

 

Heat will kill your oil long before it shear thickens or thins and your TBN/TAN crossover will happen will before you thing it does if you not measuring BOTH and I haven't run across a testing lab yet that routinely runs both. 207F water stat and put the cooler in the radiator...right....

 

Maybe someday these guys will stop lying through their teeth and the OEM's will put filter pressure delta gauges on these things.  

[Grumpy Bear]

11 hours ago, Nanotech Environmental said:

Nothing wrong with going 15k mile OCI's if using a good full synthetic and a good filter & the vehicle is mostly seeing normal highway miles. (assuming everything else is in good order) 

I find it a bit ironic that the accelerated OCI guys are essentially spending the cost of a replacement engine, while trying to avoid doing just that.

The EPA numbers are based on?????? 20% highway and 80% city. That is to obtain the rated 17 mpg that according to the government fuel site that tracks actual mileage from actual users seems about NORMAL. Darn few motors get a steady diet of 'normal highway miles'. 

 

Oil temperatures are higher now that any time in the last fifty years. High enough to completely use up any 'synthetic' base advantage AND most of these synthetics are MARKETING synthetics not REAL group IV or V's. BMEP are higher and mixtures leaner and hotter. If it were not for nanny control...….today's VVT/VVL motors run rod and main pressures that blown gas street motors were subject to only 40 years ago. 

 

Even if I were to concede that the math says I'm paying for that motor....I'm not actually changing that motor. According the law suits filed against FORD for EPA lies the motor life number has been set by the parties involved at 150K as a normal life, not 300K. In my family 300 to a 1,000,000 miles is routine doing what we do. I'll keep doing it. (disclaimer, deer like cars/trucks like these more that most )

[Nanotech Environmental]

10 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

The EPA numbers are based on?????? 20% highway and 80% city. That is to obtain the rated 17 mpg that according to the government fuel site that tracks actual mileage from actual users seems about NORMAL. Darn few motors get a steady diet of 'normal highway miles'. 

 

Oil temperatures are higher now that any time in the last fifty years. High enough to completely use up any 'synthetic' base advantage AND most of these synthetics are MARKETING synthetics not REAL group IV or V's. BMEP are higher and mixtures leaner and hotter. If it were not for nanny control...….today's VVT/VVL motors run rod and main pressures that blown gas street motors were subject to only 40 years ago. 

 

Even if I were to concede that the math says I'm paying for that motor....I'm not actually changing that motor. According the law suits filed against FORD for EPA lies the motor life number has been set by the parties involved at 150K as a normal life, not 300K. In my family 300 to a 1,000,000 miles is routine doing what we do. I'll keep doing it. (disclaimer, deer like cars/trucks like these more that most )

Please go back and very thoroughly re-read my post. 
EPA is not an issue & is not pertinent to the point I made. I was very clear about using full syns, not syn blends. Besides, everyone that lives in rural areas, which is the bigger part of the pickup truck market, does mostly highway miles. (it's way more than you think)

Quote

Oil temperatures are higher now that any time in the last fifty years. High enough to completely use up any 'synthetic' base advantage AND most of these synthetics are MARKETING synthetics not REAL group IV or V's. BMEP are higher and mixtures leaner and hotter. If it were not for nanny control...….today's VVT/VVL motors run rod and main pressures that blown gas street motors were subject to only 40 years ago. 

This is a non issue. The good full syns do hold up very well, despite your claims. What blown engines were doing 40 yrs ago is totally irrelevant. Comparing apples to dump trucks. Everything is different now. Way different. Oils, manufacturing tech & metallurgy are light years ahead of then. As good as a chev 350 & Cam 2 or (insert late 70's oil brand here) oil was in 1979, they are shit compared to a modern 5.3 LS and Full syn oils in pretty much every way.

As I also mentioned, there are very few oil related engine failures these days, unless it's a maintenance issue. The oils are simply not breaking down as you claim. 

Personally, I don't care that Ford engine life is only 150K. That's why I don't buy them. I was clear about the modern GM V8's, which do have reasonable and realistic 300k life expectancy. Even so, it doesn't matter, as I was very clear that the math accumulates across all vehicles, no matter how long the person keeps them. It doesn't matter if the engine only lasts 100k. It's the math that matters.

I really should get into the business of selling engine oil to people that want to do accelerated OCI's. It's gotta be good $$$. 

[TXGREEK]

Oh boy, here we gooooooo


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[Ozer]

So... The general concensus is I should do 10k intervals and use the filter twice, got it!!
[emoji16][emoji106]

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[newdude]

On ‎9‎/‎4‎/‎2019 at 10:24 AM, muddkatt said:

I ignore it. The OLM is just a count down clock that GM put in to remind people to change the oil. GM set the meter on the low side to compensate for dino or synthetic blends, depending on what year the vehicle was made.

 

The GM OLM is not and can't detect the type of oil used.  Never was or has been.  The algorithm is all RPMs and temperature dependent. 

[muddkatt]

1 hour ago, Ozer said:

So... The general concensus is I should do 10k intervals and use the filter twice, got it!!


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Well now that you put it that way AND I think about it......never change the filter. The DIC says "Change Engine Oil Soon". It doesn't say a damn thing about changing the filter. In todays world of smartphone, google, and the being informed by a the automoblle  on-board computers a lawyer is just waiting to file a multi-trillion dollar lawsuit because the DIC was not informative  enough.