Jump to content

Spark Plugs Change


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All,

 

I am at the time for changing my spark plugs and I wanted to find out if any of you may have some recommendations for brand and so on.  I believe there are eight, please correct me if I'm wrong.  The dealer wanted to charge me $350 to get them done.  The ones they have are $16 and then $230 to install.  I have never touched the engine so, I'm needing knowledge and thoughts on parts.

 

Thank You All!

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Are you capable of doing the job? Its not hard but not a 5 minute job either.

Took me an hour to change all 8 and wires. Its easier if you take off the front wheel and the fender liner, then you can see it all.

The 2 back ones are the hardest ones, you will need extensions and a swivel joint. Its not a hard job.

 

I would go with original AC Delco plugs. Look around, you can find them at cheaper prices vs dealer. Replace your wires as well and use dielectric grease when doing the job.

YouTube it, you will see plenty of videos on how to do it.

Posted

I bought wires and spark plugs couple months ago in believe the spark plugs cost about 9$ each and 65$ for the wires, and 50$ for labor at a small shop took them awhile as I didn’t have the lug Lock key so they couldn’t take the wheels off to do it (I ended up take to a rim shop so they can get them off and swap the locks)

Posted

If you have 8 cylinders, you have 8 plugs.  If you have 6 cylinders, you have 6 plugs.  If I may humbly suggest paying the dealer... it may be much cheaper in the long run.

Posted
2 hours ago, dukedkt442 said:

If you have 8 cylinders, you have 8 plugs.  If you have 6 cylinders, you have 6 plugs.  If I may humbly suggest paying the dealer... it may be much cheaper in the long run.

Hemis have 16 plugs and 8 cylinders.

Posted
5 hours ago, Frankielozano214 said:

I bought wires and spark plugs couple months ago in believe the spark plugs cost about 9$ each and 65$ for the wires, and 50$ for labor at a small shop took them awhile as I didn’t have the lug Lock key so they couldn’t take the wheels off to do it (I ended up take to a rim shop so they can get them off and swap the locks)

Am I missing something here?  Wouldn't it take longer/be a bigger hassle to remove the front wheels and take out the front fender liners to change the plugs than it would just to change the spark plugs by just opening the hood, or are there special instructions in the service manual for the 2014-2018 Silverado/Sierra 1500s?

Posted

Put this on YouTube it’ll show u how to do it, “2014 Chevy Silverado sparkplugs change”

for some reason I can’t copy the link on here anymore think it’s something to do with my iOS13

Posted
5 hours ago, MaverickZ71 said:

Am I missing something here?  Wouldn't it take longer/be a bigger hassle to remove the front wheels and take out the front fender liners to change the plugs than it would just to change the spark plugs by just opening the hood, or are there special instructions in the service manual for the 2014-2018 Silverado/Sierra 1500s?

well the issue lies in laying over the top of the truck/engine as you do this or you can remove the wheels/liner and access from the side. 

 

also the #8 plug on these trucks can be a pain in the ass. it has coolant lines that run right next to it and the ac accumulator making it a hassle. as a tech who has change plugs on these trucks #8 is the worst. i do find it easier to access from the fender then lay over the engine. 

Posted
5 hours ago, MaverickZ71 said:

Am I missing something here?  Wouldn't it take longer/be a bigger hassle to remove the front wheels and take out the front fender liners to change the plugs than it would just to change the spark plugs by just opening the hood, or are there special instructions in the service manual for the 2014-2018 Silverado/Sierra 1500s?

Not missing anything. No reason at all to touch wheels or liners on any Chevy V8 going back to the 50s. 

Posted
5 hours ago, MaverickZ71 said:

Correct.  But GMs are NOT Hemis.  

Well they are they just can't be called it. Haha. Just a hemispherical combustion chamber.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 316 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...