Jump to content

Spark Plugs Change


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
11 hours ago, dukedkt442 said:

Not missing anything. No reason at all to touch wheels or liners on any Chevy V8 going back to the 50s. 

Ones physical shape and weight will also play a role here. Im 187lb and i could do it from the top but a 300+lb guy will have trouble doing that.

The back ones were actually not that bad doing it from the fender vs top. One other advantage of taking the wheel/liner off is you get so see a lot more parts up close so good time to inspect things.

Posted
11 hours ago, madmathew said:

Anyone changing the wires with the plugs?  If so what wires are you going to? 

I’m about to do mine preventatively at 93,000.  Just going to use AC Delco 

Posted
12 hours ago, madmathew said:

Anyone changing the wires with the plugs?  If so what wires are you going to? 

AC Delco wires and plugs.  If you can get them.  ACD parts manufacturing and delivery is halted due to the strike.  

Posted
16 hours ago, Txbluelacy said:

I’m about to do mine preventatively at 93,000.  Just going to use AC Delco 

93k isn’t preventive, it’s just due. Cheapest way to save the coils is by replacing plugs and wires. Even though they’ll work, spark plug efficiency usually plummets after 60k miles. I did mine at 73k and they’d definitely gained gap by several thousandths. After losing a coil on my bmw at 80k due to original plugs, I go 60k on everything I own or work on built in the last 15 years. The old stuff gets gapped every 10k. 

Posted
18 hours ago, Lsgun1 said:

If MSD makes wires for our trucks which I'm sure they do I wouldn't hesitate to get them.

MSD does makes wires and coils but unless you are forced induction, i dont see the benefit/cost on a stock truck.

Stick with AC Delco wires and plugs. Buy online, cheaper.

Posted

I'd go with AC Delco as well.

 

I had an 01 Suburban with a 5.3 and one time I put in the Bosch +4 plugs. About 500 miles into a road trip the low oil light comes on. I had just changed it (and plugs) before I left, but sure enough its 2 quarts down. Fill it back up and hit the road. A little ways down the road the low oil light comes on again. Check the oil and it is 2 quarts low again. Filled it back up and kept stopping to put more in until I reached my destination. I called my brother who is a mechanic and he practically yelled at me, get those Bosch pugs out of there, go get some AC Delco's. 

 

I couldn't get AC Delco's at the time so I put NGK's in.  Never had another problem using oil. I don't know why the Bosch plugs drank oil in that engine, never used them again.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/23/2019 at 4:26 PM, Frankielozano214 said:

Put this on YouTube it’ll show u how to do it, “2014 Chevy Silverado sparkplugs change

for some reason I can’t copy the link on here anymore think it’s something to do with my iOS13

 

 

hereyago..

Posted

A 2 page spark plug thread and all we have accomplished so far is determine that a GM V8 has 8 plugs? Come on guys I expect better from you...

 

Most importantly, you will need to purchase a spark plug gap tool, or a set of feeler gauges to determine and adjust the gap from the centre electrode to the ground electrode.

 

Assuming you have a 5.3L V8, you are looking for a spark plug gap of 0.040". If you are using Iridium plugs, be careful when gapping them as ground electrode can be weaker. Do not use Iridium plugs if they are gapped beyond 0.060" at the factory, to risky to bend to .040" IMO. If Iridium are 0.045 from the factory, just leave them be, close enough. 

Posted

Anyone know if the Sierras (2015) need spark plug wires with heat shields?  AC Delco has without and with the metal shields.  But, I don't know which mine currently have on it and I don't want to purchase the wrong ones.

Posted
30 minutes ago, BluEyeItln said:

Anyone know if the Sierras (2015) need spark plug wires with heat shields?  AC Delco has without and with the metal shields.  But, I don't know which mine currently have on it and I don't want to purchase the wrong ones.

Easiest thing to do buy both and return the ones you don’t use, if funds are available. 

Posted

Or perhaps ask the dealer? Or take one of the plugs off and look? I know for my '04, it was straightforward to transfer the heat shields from the old wires to the new when I changed them.

Posted
7 hours ago, BluEyeItln said:

Anyone know if the Sierras (2015) need spark plug wires with heat shields?  AC Delco has without and with the metal shields.  But, I don't know which mine currently have on it and I don't want to purchase the wrong ones.

You could look and see?

Posted

You have to take apart part of the wheel well to get to them. That is why I'm asking.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 945 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...