Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 12/9/2019 at 8:12 AM, Rsktm300xcw said:

Also having the rattle in my at4. Seems like if I pull back towards me on the center dash storage tray it seems to go away. Does this sou d like the rattle of the ducting on the bar?

I am have a similar rattle and pulling the tray helps my High Country’s “popping” as well. Any other suggestions as to where it could be coming from as I have a hard time understanding how pulling on the dash/tray could help with the ducting bar. 

Posted
On 12/9/2019 at 6:12 AM, Rsktm300xcw said:

Also having the rattle in my at4. Seems like if I pull back towards me on the center dash storage tray it seems to go away. Does this sou d like the rattle of the ducting on the bar?

My AT4 does the exact same thing. If i pull the top center storage pocket towards me it goes away. If you move it back and forth you can hear it squeak. Very annoying. Took it to dealer with no solution. Dealers do not seam interested in working on this type of problem. Would love to know how to pull the instrument panel and get to the ducting to see if this would fix this.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I recently partially took my dash apart. I ended up taking the top tray out and the front windshield defrost grill out. The defroster grill pops out with a plastic trim tool. The center dash tray does as well once the single screw is removed. While reinstalling the screw in the dash tray I pulled back on it and tightened the screw. I then popped the defroster grill back in, the rattle seems to have stopped. At least for the time being. Now the center console squeaks of course.

  • 6 months later...
Posted
On 12/9/2019 at 7:12 AM, Rsktm300xcw said:

Also having the rattle in my at4. Seems like if I pull back towards me on the center dash storage tray it seems to go away. Does this sou d like the rattle of the ducting on the bar?

i am experience this exact same thing. Did you have any luck.

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 10/10/2021 at 8:14 AM, Michael Brusco said:

Just found my rattling noise on my 2020 Chevy 2500 6.6 gas. The antifreeze reservoir, was loose. 

You're the man! I was just about to start digging into the dash until I saw this post. This ended up being my issue as well. 

  • 8 months later...
Posted (edited)

Hey, little late into the game.  Just bought a 2021 GMC Sierra AT4. I have the same rattle: so far I have removed the cluster and added rattle prevention to the AC duct. I have firmly secured the hood release pull cord all the way from the inside to the hood latch. This rattle is driving me insane and the dealership (despite have a new vehicle warranty) charges me $150 anytime I bring it to the shop with this issue. They claim its a harness loose but do not know “which” one or “where”. Any solutions would be MUCH appreciated

Edit: The coolant reservoir mentioned above was missing a bolt. After bolting it down with felt washers on both sides, still no rattle solution.

Edited by EmporerM
Posted
On 1/29/2024 at 7:53 PM, EmporerM said:

Hey, little late into the game.  Just bought a 2021 GMC Sierra AT4. I have the same rattle: so far I have removed the cluster and added rattle prevention to the AC duct. I have firmly secured the hood release pull cord all the way from the inside to the hood latch. This rattle is driving me insane and the dealership (despite have a new vehicle warranty) charges me $150 anytime I bring it to the shop with this issue. They claim its a harness loose but do not know “which” one or “where”. Any solutions would be MUCH appreciated

Edit: The coolant reservoir mentioned above was missing a bolt. After bolting it down with felt washers on both sides, still no rattle solution.


FOR THE LOVE OF GMC, the rattle has been found and fixed. One of the screws holding the fender well up was missing. The metal clip that sits in the metal bracket got wind on it at higher speeds. Put a piece of tape over the clip and a new screw in it. Wallahhh.. no more rattle. One key point that made me look there was: the rattle went away even at high speeds when it was raining. The weight of the water on the clip and fender well prevented the metal on metal rattle at higher speeds. I’ve got a video of what it sounded like for anyone hunting a sound

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start   The ignition voltage is between 10 and 15 V. The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) at start-up is less than 42°C (108°F). The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 2–32°C (36–90°F). The engine is OFF for greater than 6 hours or the following conditions must be met: The start-up IAT minus start-up ECT are within 12°C (22°F). The start-up ECT minus start-up IAT are within 50°C (90°F). Fuel level is between 25 and 75 %.   Circuit/System Verification Verify that all I/M System Status indicators report YES, and that no I/M Test DTCs are present.If any I/M Test DTCs are set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. If no I/M Test DTCs are set All OK. Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure   Warning: Refer to Road Test Warning. Note: Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal until told to do so. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test.   Note: An I/M Test DTC will not be stored or erased from the ECU except at the end of trip processing, which occurs 5 s after ignition OFF.   Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable. Turn OFF all of the accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood.   Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission.   Start and idle the engine for 2 min.   Close the hood, release the parking brake and Accelerate at part throttle to 72–80 km/h (45–50 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature, 8–10 min.   Continue operation under these conditions for an additional 6 min.   Accelerate at part throttle to 90 km/h (55 mph) with this speed maintained for 2 min.   Release the accelerator pedal for at least 10 s. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off.   Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 min.   Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 min.   Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES.   If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, turn OFF the ignition, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 6-11 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run.   If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator.   Observe the I/M Test DTC information with a scan tool. Verify there are no I/M Test DTCs present. If an I/M Test DTC is set, diagnose the DTC using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle and refer to Inspection/Maintenance System Check.   Observe the engine DTC information with a scan tool. Verify no DTCs are present. If a DTC is set, diagnose using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. After repairs, perform the Inspection/Maintenance Complete System Set Procedure to verify no further DTCs are set.       Looks like one procedure to me.  Repeated as necessary.
    • My 2020 AT4 6.2 has had the valve spring issue addressed at ~200 miles, front cover/pump replaced at 18k, water pump at 34k and idler pully at 65k.  I would agree with ditching by 100k unless you elect to go with upgraded hardware...say built 10l80 and an lt4 or l8p swap.
    • I also need one of your modules for my 1993 chevy c2500 7.4 Thanks! My email is [email protected]
    • Chevy needs to do a black regular cab short box SS model with the new 6.6L.  400SS.
    • You might find the drive cycle you need somewhere on charm.li (website), otherwise I suggest a subscription to alldata.com to get them for your truck.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...